Bad news Dave and Doug. No activity at Pirongia as we went through an hour ago.

Cayenne in sport mode almost feels like a car. Eating up the km in air conditioned lounge chairs.

 

They're open from the 5th. Where are you heading? Beyond Wellington?

 

There are 2 options:

1) Buy a RUF aftermarket sensor for about $400, or:

2) Simply disconnect the 2 wires that operate the automatic tail - http://boman993.com/diy-spoiler-module-mod/

You can still manually lift the spoiler with the switch on the center consul and this is what I do when I take the car to the track or if I chose to go 103.5 KPH.

But around town - the car get's to look pretty with spoiler down, as I find them particularly ugly when raised on lighter coloured cars.

I saw a silver 991 with the spoiler up the other day and it looked truly hideous, almost like you are driving around with the engine lid up?

I just tried googling 991 with spoiler up and noticed all Factory Marketing photos show the cars at speed with the tails down (even the marketing guys think it's an ugly look)

 

Is this Fabspeed Simon?

 

Yep.

 

This kit sounds too good to be true......

I look forward to the 993 version (+45hp over stock = 317hp), and Macca, Luke, James, Simon, Shariz and I all have our orders in pending.

The only question I have is whether you can get the skills to map the car to NZ petrol here.

There is a company in the UK that regularly get's 305-310HP when they chip NVR 993's, and I was getting all excited for a while there. The problem is you needed a dyno in NZ, and a special cable and connection so that the guys in the UK could read the results live (meaning someone having their dyno shop open in the small hours of the morning), so the UK guys could see the readings and adjust the chip. I understand they do dozens of runs and it takes half a day (or the night) to do a car.

The guy (Wayne from memory) has a son in Wellington and it may have been possible to make something happen, but we probably needed a few people on board to make it worth everyone's while.

 

Nice - I'd personally like the Carnwell RSR Mufflers.........

This car on the drive by's sounds almost like an old school MFI engine (best sounding Pcar engine ever IMHO)


Macca - do you have the link to the silver 993 with orange Carrera stripes - the car that runs trottle bodies?

 

Thanks Paul. I think they're but ugly too. Option 2 looks like the one. Would be nice if it could be programmed to come on at 120kph like the Boxster one does. I guess that's what option 1 may do :-)

 

Waikanae and Wellington. Just a short trip.

Going the way we came back from Manfiield. Cayenne handling it well.

 

Paul. Ive done 100s and 100s of hours on this and Im sure we have been down this discussion path before. The Dyno you refer to is Schofields in UK. Its a "happy" dyno (i.e. it reads optimistic. Ive interviewed his clients and he does 9M work for their headline engines). To put it mildly, its happy. If you want to know more call me and we can discuss.

Base line is you cant get 315 bhp from a VR engine by advancing the motronics sysyem. There simply isnt anything much left on teh table without opening her up and internal work. Ask Steve. Hell tell you his best 3.8 engine build using factory Mahle on 964/993 will yield 320 and thats using a few "tricks up the sleeve". Thats a full competition spec 100 hour (enduro) build.

Im not going to harp on about this. Its been my pet study for a long time and I forgotten more than I remember. I can promise you there is not 45 bhp in the 964 engine on an electronics change only. Engine is air i, fuel, ignition, exhaust gas out. To get 45 bhp on the 3.6 atmo engine you need to improve all three. Porting, windage all nice and needed, ignition and injection improvements (Motec/Link sequential etc), multi pintle injectors, some ignition advance and nice set of race headers three into one equal length if you can and MAP sensor with good intake and a little intake plenum tickle and youll get a 272 BHP 993 engine to 315 bhp without a capacity increase. Thats 15-20K work just there including 2-3K on the dyno/tuning (easily).

However as previously stated even if you can get 15-25 bhp out of that set up they are advertorially promoting and its 3K USD then its worth seriously considering as there is no cheap performance in air cooled atmo land....

John. You should buy the kit and give it a go. Its cheap and will add some benefit.

 

to the above add/ subtract reliability/driveability issues... There is a reason heavily modified cars loose $$$

 

Post #14358 on page 958 had Lola at 1,334kg and Herman @ 1,380kg.

Doug reckoned he could easily widen the difference with seats etc, including his gym work, however 25hp on a rebuilt motor would head that off at the pass.

If I can get some hard facts and the Turbo 3.6 sells then I'll reinvest some funds here.

BTW. Cayenne did well on the open road. Very slow traffic out of Auckland, not really clearing up until Huntly and then clear road gage 21 mpg on average. Very comfortable.

 

Simon, the kit is plug and play. Basically changing the air flow meter for a modern hot wire one in place of the barn door flap and a new ECU.

Macca has the T shirt with putting new ECUs in. It's not impossible just time consuming being a pioneer. The kit developers have made what would be a chore, simple. I have no patience to spend countless hours on a dyno.

As for modifications, when/if the time came to sell Herman I would gladly reverse any mods not considered value enhancing and change the price accordingly. A day with a spanner would have that sorted.

 

The only way to fully optimise the result is to tune the ecu on the dyno. This will reflect NZ fuel grade and RON as well as accurately compensate for other aftermarket additions such as exhaust, LWFC etc.

However, if you can get 25bhp for around $4500-5000 NZD landed, taxed and installed, then at 200 Swiss Pacific Francs per BHP thats fair value in the world of 3.6 tuning.

I read the article and have looked at the supplier site before. Seem like a very competent outfit. My take on the 964 being used in the article is that it wasnt up to scratch before the conversion (injectors), was USA car (SAI pump) and by addressing these issues, opening up the exhaust with a cat delete and applying their "solution" they got the car to 283 bhp on an unknown dyno with no reference to how they are calculating RWHP to FWHP (loss factor).

The common held view is the 964 engine could always benefit in terms of throttle response and horse power by changing the AFR gear. Many revert to MAF. Common results with free flow exhaust were around 265-270bhp, similar to NVR 993. This solution goes one further with injectors and custom ECU. I think 275bhp is achievable assumes its tuned for similar 98RON as we use here.

To me seems fair value. Main benefits apart from the power will be the throttle response. This aspect makes my car easier to pilot quickly on the track, but also something learn in the corners as very sensitive to input.

The other comparative solution would be to look at a decent chip, with the MAF conversion many do. I think this may be a cheaper solution for similar throttle response and maybe only 5-10bhp behind the solution in the UK - probably not a difference you will notice on the track.

As a point of reference, my car has cams, LWFC, injectors, MAP and Link ECU with lightweight pully, cross over pipes and free flow mufflers. The car is rated 272 from factory. With the Steve Wong chip, LWFC and RSR mufflers and cross over I was getting 288 bhp. With the cams, injectors, ECU and tuning that went to 308 bhp. This is all on a Dynapack hub mounted dyno at HiTech (these guys have been using this gear for 15 years and know their stuff). We ended up de tuning the engine to around 295 bhp due to drive ability issues (cold idle, low speed part throttle work = cams and LWFC makes it unhappy).

By comparison Paul has the Steve Wong Chip only. Its probably good for 282bhp with his set up. On the track there is very little in a straight line between our two cars. I would pull maybe one car length ahead if we had a long enough run (i.e. longer than the straight at Teretonga where we last tried it). In the tight stuff I expect my better throttle response and LWFC help in modulating the power to make the car more responsive, one of the key benefits of the set up but I have to confess in these cars 10-12 bhp is not going to make the difference between overtaking or being overtook!

 

As far as I know all modern EFI cars run with air/fuel ratio from 14.7 to 15.4 or leaner. This means the Catalytic converter is happy and all the fuel is completely burned.
fuel/air 14.7 is stoichiometric means just enough air to burn all the fuel.
fuel/air 15.4 is leaner gives the most fuel economy for your engine.
The highest power output is on the other hand with fuel/air 12.6 means the engine runs a bit richer.
If you change your ECU accordingly to deliver fuel in a 12.6 ratio you gain roughly 5% power. This applies to all cars with modern EFI.
On the downside the Catalytic converter is not working at its optimum anymore.

This is my 5 cent physics lecture, please forgive me.