Any Rennlisters from New Zealand?
03-24-2015, 05:27 PM
Burning Brakes
Just chasing this Dougie. Is there a contact at the other end to receipt the stuff? Also, is this organised thru any official NGO or is this just RSG? Gimme a call if easier to discuss.
03-24-2015, 05:52 PM
Drifting
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Left you a message and text....
Hey Jason, stand down on our stuff. It's low priority vs shelter, food and meds and I now have an avenue for it via ongoing containers going through to Vanuatu. Not via a NGO, just people mucking in mostly through Facebook connections :-)
Hey Jason, stand down on our stuff. It's low priority vs shelter, food and meds and I now have an avenue for it via ongoing containers going through to Vanuatu. Not via a NGO, just people mucking in mostly through Facebook connections :-)
03-24-2015, 06:12 PM
I got close to buying a proper iRacing set up a year or two back but realised that I'd cop flack no matter where I put it, and cop double flack whenever I used it. Still working on a strategy but my odds are improving as the kids have got older. With shore leave valuable, I don't want to trade real race days (car or bike) for virtual ones. Love sims though. A supplier made the mistake of putting an XBox with driving sim at their reception and just about had to crow bar me off for our meeting, even if the P1 was looking pretty beaten up at the end of each run.
03-24-2015, 06:19 PM
Three Wheelin'
on circuit it is not the saw action to think about - cos that is the byproduct - its the fact that the car is on the edge of oversteer and being kept there for a little bit hence the saw action. from initial turn in to apex this will be quicker and most drivers don't want understeer here. After apex oversteer may be slower depending on corner speed and the next straight.
fwd is different to rwd or even 4wd depending on how the diff set up behaves.
some of you may have seen my old foot cam video on fb (dry footage not wet) which shows what I do. that is in a 4wd and in the wet technique is highlighted much more sharply. In the wet I am generally trying to get on the gas even lightly as I turn in (targa so blind corners remember not track) then back to dabbing brake with left foot on entry to cut understeer and have the tail a little mobile and with gas on (a bit or a lot depending on corner speed). So in sequence.
1) sight corner lift and brake left foot
2) transition to right foot brake with constant force on pedal so temporarily both feet on
3) heel toe down shift
4) shift back to rf gas and lf over brake
5) start turning in with appropriate gas on
6) in dry lf brake and lift gas if needed as corner develops and sight apex (this is tuning the nose to apex and cutting understeer by lightening the tail)
6) in wet lf brake but do not lift gas as much if needed as corner develops
dunno if this makes sense to anyone but originally practised and honed in fwd on targa
fwd is different to rwd or even 4wd depending on how the diff set up behaves.
some of you may have seen my old foot cam video on fb (dry footage not wet) which shows what I do. that is in a 4wd and in the wet technique is highlighted much more sharply. In the wet I am generally trying to get on the gas even lightly as I turn in (targa so blind corners remember not track) then back to dabbing brake with left foot on entry to cut understeer and have the tail a little mobile and with gas on (a bit or a lot depending on corner speed). So in sequence.
1) sight corner lift and brake left foot
2) transition to right foot brake with constant force on pedal so temporarily both feet on
3) heel toe down shift
4) shift back to rf gas and lf over brake
5) start turning in with appropriate gas on
6) in dry lf brake and lift gas if needed as corner develops and sight apex (this is tuning the nose to apex and cutting understeer by lightening the tail)
6) in wet lf brake but do not lift gas as much if needed as corner develops
dunno if this makes sense to anyone but originally practised and honed in fwd on targa
03-24-2015, 06:29 PM
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Shoot over to our office for a go in ours so you can see how it feels. Easy to cruise over on a weekend and I'll take you on!!
03-24-2015, 06:32 PM
Rennlist Member
Sounds like an RSG virtual lap comp is brewing 
03-24-2015, 06:38 PM
Rennlist Member
03-24-2015, 06:39 PM
Rennlist Member
03-24-2015, 06:43 PM
Rennlist Member
Lol - have visions of you converting Herman or the R to a simulator. Sims are very good but to replicate actual cornering G forces for seat of pants simulation requires an F1 budget. I got close to buying a proper iRacing set up a year or two back but realised that I'd cop flack no matter where I put it, and cop double flack whenever I used it. Still working on a strategy but my odds are improving as the kids have got older. With shore leave valuable, I don't want to trade real race days (car or bike) for virtual ones. Love sims though. A supplier made the mistake of putting an XBox with driving sim at their reception and just about had to crow bar me off for our meeting, even if the P1 was looking pretty beaten up at the end of each run.
03-24-2015, 07:35 PM
Rennlist Member
03-24-2015, 07:44 PM
on circuit it is not the saw action to think about - cos that is the byproduct - its the fact that the car is on the edge of oversteer and being kept there for a little bit hence the saw action. from initial turn in to apex this will be quicker and most drivers don't want understeer here. After apex oversteer may be slower depending on corner speed and the next straight.
fwd is different to rwd or even 4wd depending on how the diff set up behaves.
some of you may have seen my old foot cam video on fb (dry footage not wet) which shows what I do. that is in a 4wd and in the wet technique is highlighted much more sharply. In the wet I am generally trying to get on the gas even lightly as I turn in (targa so blind corners remember not track) then back to dabbing brake with left foot on entry to cut understeer and have the tail a little mobile and with gas on (a bit or a lot depending on corner speed). So in sequence.
1) sight corner lift and brake left foot
2) transition to right foot brake with constant force on pedal so temporarily both feet on
3) heel toe down shift
4) shift back to rf gas and lf over brake
5) start turning in with appropriate gas on
6) in dry lf brake and lift gas if needed as corner develops and sight apex (this is tuning the nose to apex and cutting understeer by lightening the tail)
6) in wet lf brake but do not lift gas as much if needed as corner develops
dunno if this makes sense to anyone but originally practised and honed in fwd on targa
fwd is different to rwd or even 4wd depending on how the diff set up behaves.
some of you may have seen my old foot cam video on fb (dry footage not wet) which shows what I do. that is in a 4wd and in the wet technique is highlighted much more sharply. In the wet I am generally trying to get on the gas even lightly as I turn in (targa so blind corners remember not track) then back to dabbing brake with left foot on entry to cut understeer and have the tail a little mobile and with gas on (a bit or a lot depending on corner speed). So in sequence.
1) sight corner lift and brake left foot
2) transition to right foot brake with constant force on pedal so temporarily both feet on
3) heel toe down shift
4) shift back to rf gas and lf over brake
5) start turning in with appropriate gas on
6) in dry lf brake and lift gas if needed as corner develops and sight apex (this is tuning the nose to apex and cutting understeer by lightening the tail)
6) in wet lf brake but do not lift gas as much if needed as corner develops
dunno if this makes sense to anyone but originally practised and honed in fwd on targa
From one of my posts last year, elsewhere on Rennlist:
...It actually makes enough of a difference on track (mostly to mid corner composure and adjustability) that I'm learning to mix left foot braking and heel and toe downshifts in a manual track car too (about as hard as it sounds - it comes down to maintaining the same rate of brake pedal pressure change while swapping the braking foot and needs to be completed by turn in to preserve smooth trail braking). Getting the hang of it now and have gone well in race while using it most corners, but will see how it develops.
Last edited by 996tnz; 03-24-2015 at 08:56 PM.
03-24-2015, 08:57 PM
I am interested in your step 5 Graeme: 'start turning in with appropriate gas on', as I might pick up an extra trick.
On road I probably do it more, but on track I don't think I normally apply gas during turn in (unless maybe on a loose surface or I've overbraked) until much more than half way to the apex, other than the odd little tap for adjustment. At least not consciously. Do you start to feed in some gas already as you trailbrake into the turn, or just for the last moments of the transition from trailbraking to gas? If you feed some in early as it would seem, I guess maybe having some power instantly ready on tap from turn in (say 5% throttle) gives more entry adjustability at the expense of some extra brake heat? Closer to the apex, I could see it pre-spooling your turbo(s) for higher and more consistent exit power. Or is it maybe that earlier gas on entry makes sense on AWD cars with a front weight bias, for the same reason that heavy trailbraking makes sense for rear weight biased AWDs - ie to shift weight tobetter even out the grip between the axles for optimal turn in?
Actually, thinking about it, I tend to do it on road more because I'm often driving my front heavy AWD allroad versus the 996T on track. But still interested in your thoughts on appropriate gas.
On road I probably do it more, but on track I don't think I normally apply gas during turn in (unless maybe on a loose surface or I've overbraked) until much more than half way to the apex, other than the odd little tap for adjustment. At least not consciously. Do you start to feed in some gas already as you trailbrake into the turn, or just for the last moments of the transition from trailbraking to gas? If you feed some in early as it would seem, I guess maybe having some power instantly ready on tap from turn in (say 5% throttle) gives more entry adjustability at the expense of some extra brake heat? Closer to the apex, I could see it pre-spooling your turbo(s) for higher and more consistent exit power. Or is it maybe that earlier gas on entry makes sense on AWD cars with a front weight bias, for the same reason that heavy trailbraking makes sense for rear weight biased AWDs - ie to shift weight tobetter even out the grip between the axles for optimal turn in?
Actually, thinking about it, I tend to do it on road more because I'm often driving my front heavy AWD allroad versus the 996T on track. But still interested in your thoughts on appropriate gas.
03-24-2015, 09:23 PM
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If there's enough interest then lets see about coordinating a date.
03-24-2015, 10:34 PM
Three Wheelin'
I am interested in your step 5 Graeme: 'start turning in with appropriate gas on', as I might pick up an extra trick.
On road I probably do it more, but on track I don't think I normally apply gas during turn in (unless maybe on a loose surface or I've overbraked) until much more than half way to the apex, other than the odd little tap for adjustment. At least not consciously. Do you start to feed in some gas already as you trailbrake into the turn, or just for the last moments of the transition from trailbraking to gas? If you feed some in early as it would seem, I guess maybe having some power instantly ready on tap from turn in (say 5% throttle) gives more entry adjustability at the expense of some extra brake heat? Closer to the apex, I could see it pre-spooling your turbo(s) for higher and more consistent exit power. Or is it maybe that earlier gas on entry makes sense on AWD cars with a front weight bias, for the same reason that heavy trailbraking makes sense for rear weight biased AWDs - ie to shift weight tobetter even out the grip between the axles for optimal turn in?
Actually, thinking about it, I tend to do it on road more because I'm often driving my front heavy AWD allroad versus the 996T on track. But still interested in your thoughts on appropriate gas.
On road I probably do it more, but on track I don't think I normally apply gas during turn in (unless maybe on a loose surface or I've overbraked) until much more than half way to the apex, other than the odd little tap for adjustment. At least not consciously. Do you start to feed in some gas already as you trailbrake into the turn, or just for the last moments of the transition from trailbraking to gas? If you feed some in early as it would seem, I guess maybe having some power instantly ready on tap from turn in (say 5% throttle) gives more entry adjustability at the expense of some extra brake heat? Closer to the apex, I could see it pre-spooling your turbo(s) for higher and more consistent exit power. Or is it maybe that earlier gas on entry makes sense on AWD cars with a front weight bias, for the same reason that heavy trailbraking makes sense for rear weight biased AWDs - ie to shift weight tobetter even out the grip between the axles for optimal turn in?
Actually, thinking about it, I tend to do it on road more because I'm often driving my front heavy AWD allroad versus the 996T on track. But still interested in your thoughts on appropriate gas.
this means if you trail brake too aggressively in the wet the risk is rear lock up and you spin. Learned from experience, tho didn't damage the car on Targa Rotorua in conditions just like last years last day out of Rotorua, (for those that did it) wet and cold misty fog early in the morning and no tyre heat. So I will always be on the gas turning in heading to apex as a general rule. the improvisation is if you haven't finished braking or have overcooked it a little I might also still be on the brake with left. that reduces the lock up risk, with gas and brake both on.
2wd on track is different - generally can just trail brake on turn in - at Taupo end of front (pit) straight and on the straight leading into the tyre chicane S just before the pit straight for example. then if the brake balance is not right you can adjust brake bias or just brake more lightly on the trail.
fwd especially lower power cars like 2k you need to be on gas as early as poss meaning well b4 apex. So turn in under trail hoping to get the rear a bit mobile then gas, but not flat. if it starts to understeer cos u got too much gas on keep gas on but tap tap brake with left until you know you will hit apex. You are trying to get help with rotation by backing the rear in a bit so the transition is faster and get on gas sooner with the lfb the finetuning after you are back in gas. it is not so risky on fwd cos the gas always pulls the car out of oversteer.
my 2c from running all 3 types of car.