Any Rennlisters from New Zealand?
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Sounds like too much camber for road tyres being driven on the road. Not sure that half a degree adjustment on arrival to the track is worth the effort, especially as it's going to mess up your toe which is equally important.
Also with a well designed camber plate, you can just mark off the adjustments you care about and there's no need for a camber gauge.
Also with a well designed camber plate, you can just mark off the adjustments you care about and there's no need for a camber gauge.
I have a custom toe spec. Very small positive toe (purely from memory both sides together less than '.15 seconds). The toe we have played with alot and this setting is great. With track tyres on the road its a bit darty. As soon as you put the road tyres on its much more settled. The treat profile and compound seems to add a little positive toe. Its a great set up (I have had 0 seconds setting on this car and it was great on the track - like a goKart - but very darty with both road and track tyres on the road).
What you are saying with the camber plates is technically true. Two things tho. They are prone to move and secondly I haven't scribed off the relative minutes on them yet (will ask Pete to do so from here on in). The camber gauge is more a bit more accuracy. On the GT3 there is adjustment but nothing to scribe off on. I like it. Its a great design, very industrial bit of kit and I saw one of Tuthills race teams using it on a rally in Africa.
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Dave. My first track day was back in March last year at HD on road tyres. I didnt heat manage them well either. I need the R comps to improve on the 1.21-1.22s PB I did back then LOL! Those road tyres got greasy half way through the session alright. Paul took my car out straight after I came in and can attest to a nice 360 after turn 3 ;-)
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0.75 degrees. From -2.30 minutes to -3.15 minutes. At the front it is noticeable and it feels to work better when the tyres get hot (more even heat across the tyre surface). I ran those settings at NITT. Cant say Ive had teh change to try the later SITT on the same tracks however....
I have a custom toe spec. Very small positive toe (purely from memory both sides together less than '.15 seconds). The toe we have played with alot and this setting is great. With track tyres on the road its a bit darty. As soon as you put the road tyres on its much more settled. The treat profile and compound seems to add a little positive toe. Its a great set up (I have had 0 seconds setting on this car and it was great on the track - like a goKart - but very darty with both road and track tyres on the road).
I have a custom toe spec. Very small positive toe (purely from memory both sides together less than '.15 seconds). The toe we have played with alot and this setting is great. With track tyres on the road its a bit darty. As soon as you put the road tyres on its much more settled. The treat profile and compound seems to add a little positive toe. Its a great set up (I have had 0 seconds setting on this car and it was great on the track - like a goKart - but very darty with both road and track tyres on the road).
Not under any normal circumstances with a properly made and installed one. Have you actually seen this happen? Or are you basing this on the fact that Rennline sell a gimmicky strut brace?
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I get some interesting drive offers when we travel. Mostly from RL'ers around the world we visit en route. The rule of thumb most commonly used in the USA and Europe is "you break it you buy it". I like this rule as none of my gear is insured on track if anyone else other than me is driving it and likewise for others. Im not interested in an insurance repaired car for an accident I didn't initiate! However, true to what you say, when two parties are engaged in the "you break it you buy it" rule you find their driving is a tad more sane. Seems to work well as a general rule however. Not sure on how RSG guys manage this stuff. I assume goodwill....
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More seriously though, it is not without risk but we'd all probably save a fair bit in development and setup time by comparing drives and notes more within models. Especially when it comes to things like tyre brands and performance mods there is a lot of smoke and mirrors out there, with the vendors the only big winners sometimes as some of us cycle through multiple tyres, exhausts, suspensions, headers, tunes and what not looking for the particular one or ones that actually deliver the difference we're after.
Luckily, we're most of the way there already on Rennlist, and particularly on this NZ thread. You guys save me money and help me go faster!
Luckily, we're most of the way there already on Rennlist, and particularly on this NZ thread. You guys save me money and help me go faster!
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Okay. You said -3 in your first post. I think you missed my point, as adjusting the camber will also directly affect the toe. So you need to reset the toe after adjusting the camber, or have pre-measured the difference and compromised one way or another.
Not under any normal circumstances with a properly made and installed one. Have you actually seen this happen? Or are you basing this on the fact that Rennline sell a gimmicky strut brace?
Not under any normal circumstances with a properly made and installed one. Have you actually seen this happen? Or are you basing this on the fact that Rennline sell a gimmicky strut brace?
The 993 track guys complain about the fronts getting knocked out. You can find it through a thread search. Also the rear kinematic is prone to getting easily knocked out too. thats no longer an issue with the shyericals and locking plates.
My recollection was that caster was affected most by camber and Im fairly certain when Pete and I discussed this that increasing the camber by -.65 minutes would create slightly more positive caster. Give the current settings are quite benign for toe & caster it looked like there was enough to make a static change of up to 3/4 degree. I may be wrong or my understanding may be incorrect so I will discuss with peter when we discuss the settings next week. I think I will leave the fronts at -2.30 (the compromise on road wear vs handling is acceptable to me) but will pull the rears back to -2.00 now we are able to clear the guards with the OZ alloys. Im thinking of using the 285 Z221 rears. I hope they work without rubbing....it will be damn close...
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Sorry to come in entirely off piste. I noticed somewhere a while back the talk of Auckland property prices. I'm out of the loop but looking to get back in. I'm being told to wait 6-12 months because things are getting softer. Is that a fair assessment?
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Sean. Talk to Paul by PM. He's got a good feel for this right now as he is shopping....
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"When I lowered my car, I had the same issues. I was on the verge of rolling the fenders myself before I realized that a buddy of mine had a lowered 993 whose tires didn't rub, but had never had the fenders rolled. He was running 224/40/18's and 285/30/18's. I swapped out my rubber for a set with these specs and it hasn't rubbed since. "
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If your guards haven't already been rolled then that should sort it otherwise, but running decent camber I'd think you'll be fine anyway.
If you roll them, don't be tempted by the heat gun and hammer traditional DIY approach. Great result (even by Virgo standards) but took me more hours than I care to admit!
I only had it as a backup plan but it got invoked after Mag and Turbo Warehouse said "Oh no, we wouldn't touch that - it's an exotic. Take it to a European specialist" and then Ray Haslar Autohaus (a European Specialist who do a fair bit of Porsche work) said "Oh no we wouldn't touch that, too much chance of damaging the paint. try taking it to a place like Mag and Turbo Warehouse".
I now really, really understand how panel beaters came by that name...
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Fortunately they ditched the silly kinematic toe idea on the 996, but the rear toe eccentric adjustment bolts still slip under high load, so it's usually worth installing a lock out plate and adjustable arms if you track the car.
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More seriously though, it is not without risk but we'd all probably save a fair bit in development and setup time by comparing drives and notes more within models. Especially when it comes to things like tyre brands and performance mods there is a lot of smoke and mirrors out there, with the vendors the only big winners sometimes as some of us cycle through multiple tyres, exhausts, suspensions, headers, tunes and what not looking for the particular one or ones that actually deliver the difference we're after.
Luckily, we're most of the way there already on Rennlist, and particularly on this NZ thread. You guys save me money and help me go faster!![thumbup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/thumbup.gif)
Luckily, we're most of the way there already on Rennlist, and particularly on this NZ thread. You guys save me money and help me go faster!
![thumbup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/thumbup.gif)
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Do you have a link? I couldn't find anything in a quick search.
Different issue with different forces at play, so it doesn't support an argument for camber plate slip.
Fortunately they ditched the silly kinematic toe idea on the 996, but the rear toe eccentric adjustment bolts still slip under high load, so it's usually worth installing a lock out plate and adjustable arms if you track the car.
Different issue with different forces at play, so it doesn't support an argument for camber plate slip.
Fortunately they ditched the silly kinematic toe idea on the 996, but the rear toe eccentric adjustment bolts still slip under high load, so it's usually worth installing a lock out plate and adjustable arms if you track the car.
Yes the rear end is a different issue. The 993 design was good in theory less so in practice. I bought the lockout kit for all three arms each side replaced to eliminate the issue when I went to the dog bones. Also the rubber boots. Actually with teh solid shim kit and now new A arms with elephant racing trailing arm bush Ive pretty much eliminated all rubber all the original Weissach effect that was supposed to be so advantageous with the 993 rear tub design....Pauls the same...should have just bought a 964!
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If you roll them, don't be tempted by the heat gun and hammer traditional DIY approach. Great result (even by Virgo standards) but took me more hours than I care to admit!
I only had it as a backup plan but it got invoked after Mag and Turbo Warehouse said "Oh no, we wouldn't touch that - it's an exotic. Take it to a European specialist" and then Ray Haslar Autohaus (a European Specialist who do a fair bit of Porsche work) said "Oh no we wouldn't touch that, too much chance of damaging the paint. try taking it to a place like Mag and Turbo Warehouse".
I only had it as a backup plan but it got invoked after Mag and Turbo Warehouse said "Oh no, we wouldn't touch that - it's an exotic. Take it to a European specialist" and then Ray Haslar Autohaus (a European Specialist who do a fair bit of Porsche work) said "Oh no we wouldn't touch that, too much chance of damaging the paint. try taking it to a place like Mag and Turbo Warehouse".
In the end I was at Jamies place in Otaki and we went up teh road and bought a baseball bat from a sports store, used a heat gun and I stuck it (handle end) in there and rolled away. Jamie was a bit nervous - he held teh heat gun! I was too. Its worked out fine in the end as you know. Not for the faint of heart tho!
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I see this is a normal Playday session date, not Prestige. If you do the RSG session are you still able to get Prestigio cover?