Any Rennlisters from New Zealand?
#5476
Burning Brakes
[QUOTE=Macca;10835514]16 v 17 should make no difference to turning circle. 911s have terrible turning circle full stop.[QUOTE]
Apparently older 911's have very good turning circles, you just need to lift off at the right moment....
Apparently older 911's have very good turning circles, you just need to lift off at the right moment....
#5478
Rennlist Member
Calling Macca. Where do I source the hardware to fit harness straps to the existing anchor points I.e. Off the rear seat bases and seat mounts? No sub belt so want to keep it bolt on.
Also need to quell the calls for lowering the old girl. How do I know which springs will do the job?
Also need to quell the calls for lowering the old girl. How do I know which springs will do the job?
#5479
Instructor
Hi John , I got mine from AutoQuip, they were in Mt Eden, now Kingsland, something like this http://www.sabelt.co.nz/collections/...33nu-basic-4pt, my old one is at Topline, you are welcome to try it, mine is a 5 point, but it is complete, ie harness + eye bolts that screw straight in to the seat belt anchor points. Just tell Kev that Craig said you want to try it out. There is also a Racetech seat there, but it will be too small for your frame. Cheers, Craig.
#5480
Rennlist Member
Hi John , I got mine from AutoQuip, they were in Mt Eden, now Kingsland, something like this http://www.sabelt.co.nz/collections/...33nu-basic-4pt, my old one is at Topline, you are welcome to try it, mine is a 5 point, but it is complete, ie harness + eye bolts that screw straight in to the seat belt anchor points. Just tell Kev that Craig said you want to try it out. There is also a Racetech seat there, but it will be too small for your frame. Cheers, Craig.
#5481
Drifting
Chipping in here....
The eye bolts are fine for the rear seat belt points. 7/16 unf thread. Neil Allport Motorsport in olive road Penrose is where I got mine from but a few places on the web in NZ stock them. The anchor points each side of the front seat are a different story. I have two eye bolts. The outer in the standard sill mount and the inner is drilled into the tunnel. The former is easy, the latter is best with the attachments that Macca recommends which I believe utilise the seat rail mounting points. Point to note that unless you have a racing seat, the eye bolts don't work as they stick out too far and jam the seat
The eye bolts are fine for the rear seat belt points. 7/16 unf thread. Neil Allport Motorsport in olive road Penrose is where I got mine from but a few places on the web in NZ stock them. The anchor points each side of the front seat are a different story. I have two eye bolts. The outer in the standard sill mount and the inner is drilled into the tunnel. The former is easy, the latter is best with the attachments that Macca recommends which I believe utilise the seat rail mounting points. Point to note that unless you have a racing seat, the eye bolts don't work as they stick out too far and jam the seat
#5482
Rennlist Member
Chipping in here.... The eye bolts are fine for the rear seat belt points. 7/16 unf thread. Neil Allport Motorsport in olive road Penrose is where I got mine from but a few places on the web in NZ stock them. The anchor points each side of the front seat are a different story. I have two eye bolts. The outer in the standard sill mount and the inner is drilled into the tunnel. The former is easy, the latter is best with the attachments that Macca recommends which I believe utilise the seat rail mounting points. Point to note that unless you have a racing seat, the eye bolts don't work as they stick out too far and jam the seat
#5483
Rennlist Member
Found it. Rennline is the supplier. Looks like it's reasonably priced.
As an aside, I dropped my Speedo (odometer cog broken) and fuel gauge (face glass cracked) into Robinsons yesterday morning. 24 hour turnaround. Recommended.
As an aside, I dropped my Speedo (odometer cog broken) and fuel gauge (face glass cracked) into Robinsons yesterday morning. 24 hour turnaround. Recommended.
#5484
Rennlist Member
John. Sorry, late to the party here. Was out of coverage....yes Rennline. Good people. I order my rennline via FD Motorsports and they consolidate my freight If you have any need for factory parts you can bundle them together as an order. Their shipping is more reasonable than Rennline.
Definitely you need to get the height down John. Im confident with the right springs you will find 1s a lap instantly (springs alone). Do your research on RL but suggest H&R or Porsche Motorsort may be the best lead.
You have to trust me here and do the suspension the right way. Seriously Ive spent alot of money getting this right (still working on it with removal of tilt kit today and install of ball jointed arms etc). I think Im now up to my 5th geo.
I would drop all four shocks and have them tested at Bilstein agent in Penrose. Im not confident (no offence) given what else Ive seen under your car and in relation to gaskets and rubber components etc that these arent shot or on their way out. You will start to push the car harder soon and as soon as you drop 2-3s at HD on R compounds you are really going to start showing the weak points. Look at Steve. Your brakes seem fine a few laps out there he has the light on! This next 2-3S to get you around 1.20 is going to triple the stress on your drive train. My rear toe arms were 100% for 20 years then I did two track days with R compounds and they are now in need off replacement (not too bad but starting to show looseness). The forces the R compounds put on the drive train along with my novice abuse, eventually leading to some actual very hard and fast lap times really started showing the weakest points of teh system. Ive no doubt if I shaved off another few seconds Id start to expose other weaknesses. You are heading that way to from a different starting point granted but if you can get the suspension really well sorted you will have the confidence to really lean on the car and especially under brakes and you will make much faster and smoother progress.
So my advise. Spend 5 hours researching springs and anything you should be doing whilst in there. Re bush, shock rebuild/resto, drop links, toe arms or whatever a 964 has. Research the parts, order them get them in one place then give the car to CCS to install all parts and pass to Pete for Geo. You'll loose the car for a good week but when it comes back along with your new pads and/or rotors you will have a totally different car. Lower centre of gravity, no pogo, better laying down the power, sharper turn in, more predictable yada yada yada.
I know you know all this already and I dont mean to sound like a know it all, Im very honest about the mistakes Ive made, but I dont just jump into things like many people think I do with the 993, I research the Sh*t out of everything I do first them make my decision, so when I do make mistakes (and I have with suspension not getting it all done properly first time) then I just want to help others not make the same mistake thats all..
Definitely you need to get the height down John. Im confident with the right springs you will find 1s a lap instantly (springs alone). Do your research on RL but suggest H&R or Porsche Motorsort may be the best lead.
You have to trust me here and do the suspension the right way. Seriously Ive spent alot of money getting this right (still working on it with removal of tilt kit today and install of ball jointed arms etc). I think Im now up to my 5th geo.
I would drop all four shocks and have them tested at Bilstein agent in Penrose. Im not confident (no offence) given what else Ive seen under your car and in relation to gaskets and rubber components etc that these arent shot or on their way out. You will start to push the car harder soon and as soon as you drop 2-3s at HD on R compounds you are really going to start showing the weak points. Look at Steve. Your brakes seem fine a few laps out there he has the light on! This next 2-3S to get you around 1.20 is going to triple the stress on your drive train. My rear toe arms were 100% for 20 years then I did two track days with R compounds and they are now in need off replacement (not too bad but starting to show looseness). The forces the R compounds put on the drive train along with my novice abuse, eventually leading to some actual very hard and fast lap times really started showing the weakest points of teh system. Ive no doubt if I shaved off another few seconds Id start to expose other weaknesses. You are heading that way to from a different starting point granted but if you can get the suspension really well sorted you will have the confidence to really lean on the car and especially under brakes and you will make much faster and smoother progress.
So my advise. Spend 5 hours researching springs and anything you should be doing whilst in there. Re bush, shock rebuild/resto, drop links, toe arms or whatever a 964 has. Research the parts, order them get them in one place then give the car to CCS to install all parts and pass to Pete for Geo. You'll loose the car for a good week but when it comes back along with your new pads and/or rotors you will have a totally different car. Lower centre of gravity, no pogo, better laying down the power, sharper turn in, more predictable yada yada yada.
I know you know all this already and I dont mean to sound like a know it all, Im very honest about the mistakes Ive made, but I dont just jump into things like many people think I do with the 993, I research the Sh*t out of everything I do first them make my decision, so when I do make mistakes (and I have with suspension not getting it all done properly first time) then I just want to help others not make the same mistake thats all..
#5485
Rennlist Member
John. Sorry, late to the party here. Was out of coverage....yes Rennline. Good people. I order my rennline via FD Motorsports and they consolidate my freight If you have any need for factory parts you can bundle them together as an order. Their shipping is more reasonable than Rennline.
Definitely you need to get the height down John. Im confident with the right springs you will find 1s a lap instantly (springs alone). Do your research on RL but suggest H&R or Porsche Motorsort may be the best lead.
You have to trust me here and do the suspension the right way. Seriously Ive spent alot of money getting this right (still working on it with removal of tilt kit today and install of ball jointed arms etc). I think Im now up to my 5th geo.
I would drop all four shocks and have them tested at Bilstein agent in Penrose. Im not confident (no offence) given what else Ive seen under your car and in relation to gaskets and rubber components etc that these arent shot or on their way out. You will start to push the car harder soon and as soon as you drop 2-3s at HD on R compounds you are really going to start showing the weak points. Look at Steve. Your brakes seem fine a few laps out there he has the light on! This next 2-3S to get you around 1.20 is going to triple the stress on your drive train. My rear toe arms were 100% for 20 years then I did two track days with R compounds and they are now in need off replacement (not too bad but starting to show looseness). The forces the R compounds put on the drive train along with my novice abuse, eventually leading to some actual very hard and fast lap times really started showing the weakest points of teh system. Ive no doubt if I shaved off another few seconds Id start to expose other weaknesses. You are heading that way to from a different starting point granted but if you can get the suspension really well sorted you will have the confidence to really lean on the car and especially under brakes and you will make much faster and smoother progress.
So my advise. Spend 5 hours researching springs and anything you should be doing whilst in there. Re bush, shock rebuild/resto, drop links, toe arms or whatever a 964 has. Research the parts, order them get them in one place then give the car to CCS to install all parts and pass to Pete for Geo. You'll loose the car for a good week but when it comes back along with your new pads and/or rotors you will have a totally different car. Lower centre of gravity, no pogo, better laying down the power, sharper turn in, more predictable yada yada yada.
I know you know all this already and I dont mean to sound like a know it all, Im very honest about the mistakes Ive made, but I dont just jump into things like many people think I do with the 993, I research the Sh*t out of everything I do first them make my decision, so when I do make mistakes (and I have with suspension not getting it all done properly first time) then I just want to help others not make the same mistake thats all..
Definitely you need to get the height down John. Im confident with the right springs you will find 1s a lap instantly (springs alone). Do your research on RL but suggest H&R or Porsche Motorsort may be the best lead.
You have to trust me here and do the suspension the right way. Seriously Ive spent alot of money getting this right (still working on it with removal of tilt kit today and install of ball jointed arms etc). I think Im now up to my 5th geo.
I would drop all four shocks and have them tested at Bilstein agent in Penrose. Im not confident (no offence) given what else Ive seen under your car and in relation to gaskets and rubber components etc that these arent shot or on their way out. You will start to push the car harder soon and as soon as you drop 2-3s at HD on R compounds you are really going to start showing the weak points. Look at Steve. Your brakes seem fine a few laps out there he has the light on! This next 2-3S to get you around 1.20 is going to triple the stress on your drive train. My rear toe arms were 100% for 20 years then I did two track days with R compounds and they are now in need off replacement (not too bad but starting to show looseness). The forces the R compounds put on the drive train along with my novice abuse, eventually leading to some actual very hard and fast lap times really started showing the weakest points of teh system. Ive no doubt if I shaved off another few seconds Id start to expose other weaknesses. You are heading that way to from a different starting point granted but if you can get the suspension really well sorted you will have the confidence to really lean on the car and especially under brakes and you will make much faster and smoother progress.
So my advise. Spend 5 hours researching springs and anything you should be doing whilst in there. Re bush, shock rebuild/resto, drop links, toe arms or whatever a 964 has. Research the parts, order them get them in one place then give the car to CCS to install all parts and pass to Pete for Geo. You'll loose the car for a good week but when it comes back along with your new pads and/or rotors you will have a totally different car. Lower centre of gravity, no pogo, better laying down the power, sharper turn in, more predictable yada yada yada.
I know you know all this already and I dont mean to sound like a know it all, Im very honest about the mistakes Ive made, but I dont just jump into things like many people think I do with the 993, I research the Sh*t out of everything I do first them make my decision, so when I do make mistakes (and I have with suspension not getting it all done properly first time) then I just want to help others not make the same mistake thats all..
The end goal is a car I can drive on the NITT, comfortably. I’m going to do the whole trip on a brand new set of Z221s, if I time the next 8 sessions well i.e. wear them out in time to go new in March.
Inside - I’m going rear seat delete, new carpet, classic seats and four point harness. I will also look at RS door cards. Dave impressed me with is workmanship, but I’ll likely go Appbiz given my skill level.
Exterior - I’m almost there. A decal for the ducktail, and a new ‘smile’ grill.
Brakes - OEM pads, no wear sensors (I’ve melted one of the existing ones) and I’ll duct from the existing RS ducts
Suspension – H&R Greens or Reds. Need to research this. The idea was to have Steve do a session and give me feedback. Unfortunately, the session he went out on was so wet only he, a 997 Turbo, and Peter (briefly) were out there. I’ll get this done again on 2/11. It may require ARB changes as well and as you’ve pointed out a reference point re shocks. I have the polybush kit ready. Not sure when to pull the trigger and get that done. Sounds like lots of labour.
Body imperfections aside, this car is shaping up well. I have 3,000km on a fully rebuilt motor, my oil system is in great shape, and I’ve been though most systems. This list will cap it off. Thereafter it should be maintenance and the occasional repair.
I took the Turbo 3.6 to work this morning. I could easily have taken the C4 if the brake light wasn’t on. My heart says the 996TT is the odd one out right now. Unless it goes to the track more, I’m struggling to think of the need for it.
#5487
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Join Date: Dec 2003
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Suspension – H&R Greens or Reds. Need to research this. The idea was to have Steve do a session and give me feedback. Unfortunately, the session he went out on was so wet only he, a 997 Turbo, and Peter (briefly) were out there. I’ll get this done again on 2/11. It may require ARB changes as well and as you’ve pointed out a reference point re shocks. I have the polybush kit ready. Not sure when to pull the trigger and get that done. Sounds like lots of labour.
I took the Turbo 3.6 to work this morning. I could easily have taken the C4 if the brake light wasn’t on. My heart says the 996TT is the odd one out right now. Unless it goes to the track more, I’m struggling to think of the need for it.
I took the Turbo 3.6 to work this morning. I could easily have taken the C4 if the brake light wasn’t on. My heart says the 996TT is the odd one out right now. Unless it goes to the track more, I’m struggling to think of the need for it.
If you seriously think of selling the 996TT let me know. I need a DD and while I'd love a Cayman I'd also had the 6T on the radar.
#5488
Rennlist Member
John - re the suspension, KWs or PSS10s will give you the adjustability to dial it in to track and road. Not cheap but seems to suit your purpose - especially since you've opted against going hardcore. Likewise, while there are other options, the adjustable RS ARBs suit the C4 brilliantly. I didn't go the extra route of adjustable coilovers and even so, the basic Bilsteins and RS ARBs made as much difference to confidence (and lap times) on track as the Hankooks did later. Plus they were the first mod that really put a smile on my face. Bang for buck they'll deliver more than the fancy pants wheels. If you seriously think of selling the 996TT let me know. I need a DD and while I'd love a Cayman I'd also had the 6T on the radar.
Yes, seriously toying with the sale of the 996TT. The family are homebodies so the long trips we thought we'd do haven't eventuated. That means it's become a DD with a 18km round trip. Very comfortable for that but it's not getting a turbo workout. It would be worth sub $60k, given its mileage but not much under. It's had a lot of maintenance caught up with and has good stuff like pilot sports (spare rears), SRF, pads etc. By no means a hundred pointer but it's a mezger with 420hp which means it hauls. The built in laser radar helps when the right foot gets too heavy.
#5489
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I'll see if Tony's keen on 2nd Nov - if he is then we could arrange both C4s to be there and swap a drive. And definitely interested in the 6T subject to sale of the C4 and a GTI.
#5490
Rennlist Member
No hurry with the 6T. It's being used to get to the Tron and TGA over the next few weeks.