How hard is it to install it?

 

It is the simplest install, ever.

It is a 10mm socket that loosens the clamp and the stock exhaust just comes right out. Slip the new tip on, align, tighten, align some more, tighten-done.

This is exactly what I got: https://www.ebay.com/itm/GTS-Look-Po...item4b013bad57

I'd get them again as they look fantastic.

 

Drove my 2014 with the fix for 600 miles. I've posted my findings which were similar to others.I sold mine back to my dealer today with 28080 miles. It was putting it lightly in exception condition. The sales manager was very impressed. Brand new DWS tires, floor mats never used, paint polished, always garaged and smells new, and I filled it up for them. It will be interesting to see what they list it for.

I was going to buy a 2009 Cayenne GTS while there that came from another dealer but my dealer was doing the PPI. They said it needed new air shocks so that killed the deal. So i'm without Cayenne for a little bit. Have a couple more to look at including rennlist'ers. I'm looking for a well kept older one.

 

I bought the same tailpipes as Ben, install was a piece of cake. The only difference on the install was the nuts on the clamps were Torx.

 

So, I think I know why some people are saying 6yr/100 warranty and some are now saying 6yr/unlimited. I bought a '16 CPO GT4 today and the CPO warranty is now unlimited mileage. I'm guessing that aside from the Cayennes and maybe Panameras, not many ever reached the mileage limit anyways.

 

Did y'all ever get a dyno check before and after the 'fix'? - Here are our before numbers run on a Dynojet with data normalized for temperature -
Still not convinced to get the 'fix' Would like to see numbers after the 'fix' - We do endurance off-road rally and can not afford to give up performance.
.
Another potential issue for us is cold weather starts as in -36F Has anyone had the fix in the north, how has it started in sub-zero temps?
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Max Pwr______203.20___200.97_____202.42
Engine RPM___3.55______3.56______3.54
Max Trq_______354.82___356.82_____352.35
Engine RPM___2.46______2.44_______2.42
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https://rennlist.com/forums/porsche-...meet-otis.html

 

The clamps are torx but a 10mm socket fits right on the torx.

 

That noise used to drive me crazy until I finally took the cup-holder unit out, cleaned all the mechanical parts of those "fingers" (they are more complex than you would imagine), added a little white lithium grease, and put everything back together. Now they make zero noise, and actually function much better. Previous owner must have spiller her lattes at an alarming rate. Even the 12v outlet in the middle had signs of spilled coffee, and blew a fuse multiple times when I first got the truck. But I do like the tall adaptors, they really help me from spilling MY lattes

Also, a few additional notes since I've had the "fix" done:

• I remember reading somewhere early-on in this diesel cheating thing that the code that was doing the cheating was found in a section labeled as "Engine Acoustics". I didn't think anything of it at the time, but now that I've had the fix done, I don't doubt that was one of the main reasons behind the decision to cheat - to make the engine more like a gasoline engine, sound-wise, and thus more attractive to the US market.
• I think there are multiple things going on after a cold start to get the engine up to operating temp as soon as possible, and faster than before. There are higher RPMs at idle, as well as during deceleration, and the gears seem to hold their upper RPM a tad bit longer before they change. And I don't have enough technical knowledge of diesels to be sure, but It's possible some of the additional noise is due to a change in the air/fuel mix designed to create more heat (?).
• I changed the oil today so I was under the hood and under the truck and there are quite a few changes. Underneath there is quite a bit of new pipe with some new sensors and a new cat (or muffler), lots of that aluminum heat-shielding, and some new fabric heat-shielding covering a few items. The only thing I noticed under the hood was another piece of that fabric heat shield installed between the turbo and the plastic engine cover, likely to keep more heat isolated there.
• The day I got the truck back, and about 2 hours into my trip, the Def alert came on to tell me I had 1000 miles left. I was worried a sensor was out, but when I took it back it turned-out they didn't reset that counter after they filled the Def tank.
• I've now got a new error code for a "particulate filter missing filter material" or something odd like that. That was all just part of the fix, so I'm hoping it will be an easy fix, but it's a PITA that I have to take it back AGAIN..
• In terms of driving, it still seems good, and I honestly think there are times where it feels a bit better, like a tad stronger in a certain area, or a gear shift that happens at a better time, or smoother than it used to. But I've honestly felt differences in the way the truck drives (even before the fix) with different fuel, too much additive(!), different ambient temps, different ambient humidity, etc.. Overall I would say the fix has no more affect on the overall driveability than any of those other influences.
• Sorry to hear some folks are having bad experiences. Hopefully they get resolved.

 

weird on the DEF thing. there is no reset, just filling the tank. I fill my own and have never had that problem once filled. More than likely, they forgot to fill it.

 

I wouldn't doubt that one bit... Heck, when they fixed the leak on the bell housing cover a few months back, they didn't torque down the undercarriage frame enough after the reinstall and for a few days I had things clunking around the front-end. When I took it back they fixed it and he told me he "used a breaker bar to really tighten it down this time".. I thought for sure there would be torque specs for something like that, geez..

 

One thing I've noticed is on deceleration, the vehicle holds 3rd gear for as long as it possibly can before shifting down to 2nd. And, slowing through 20mph, the transmission decouples completely, indicated by the RPMs dropping to idle. This has happened both on our 14 and the new 15. When you hit the gas (think slowing to make a right turn or entering a roundabout), sometimes there's a considerable lag before it all couples up again and other times, it pops into second and locks up right away. When it stays in 3rd, the lag can be considerable and on one occasion, scared me a bit as I was merging between two cars and the acceleration was slow coming on.

Going to have to keep an eye on this one.

Anyone else?

 

People do need to know what the fix does, and it is good we are sharing what it has done.

At least on my 2016, doing the fix was worth it. The truck still goes like it did before. It came back super clean, they even cleaned the barrels of the wheels, a full tank of fuel and when the paper check arrives, it will all have been totally worth it.





I took a trip to go ride the machine(s) that VWoA bought for me, thanks again VW, you are #1 in my book.

It was about 12-F in the morning. I don't notice squat anymore, or anytime, with regards to the way the motor sounds. It is a diesel motor. It makes internal combustion engine sounds. I turn the Bose system on and all the noise is gone. I can't and won't obsess over sound. Non issue to me.

The motor runs. By now, it runs the same as before. To drive around, concentrating, focusing on every rpm and shift point, and how it feels is a waste of my time. Pulling the trailer, then going out with the family for dinner, I can't even tell anything was done. The truck still runs so well on the highway, even with the trailer. It accelerates like it did before, with no muss, no fuss. No loss of power and no noticeable loss of mpg. The last thing I'm doing is worrying about mpg. What am I going to do, waste more of my precious time thinking, 'What am I going to do about the loss of mpg?, write VW?' Forget that. I have fun things to do than listen and copy down some numbers and enter them into some app or spreadsheet. If that is your bent in life, great. Keep us informed.

For now. This snowbike is the most fun thing I have ever done and can't hardly wait for next weekend to ride from Saturday till Tuesday. Yee-haw! Thanks VW/Porsche, your diesel engine is the very best.

 

So you're suggesting I should start my own thread to discuss the Diesel Cayenne and VW emission issue? Perhaps I should call that thread "Diesel Cayenne and VW emission issue" so people will know it's a good place to learn about the Diesel Cayenne and VW emission issue. Then I can leave you to this thread to continue to post pictures of cupholders and snowmobiles with all the other people who came here to discuss the Diesel Cayenne and VW emission issue as the title says.

There's an entire forum of threads where you can discuss general Cayenne issues and you even have the ability to create your own thread if none of the existing ones are suitable for what you hope to discuss. We're not limited to just this one thread to talk about anything related to Cayennes. It would pretty awful if that were actually how it worked, don't you think?

It's annoying to have to sift through pages of unrelated posts trying to find new information on the actual subject of this thread.

 

Good luck trying to control a public forum to your standards of what is considered acceptable content to post. Not mention you not are the OP of this thread

The thread title “Diesel Cayenne AND VW emission Issue” please refer me to the part where the OP stated in this thread it is only dedicated to the subject matter of whether or not to bring your vehicle in to be fixed or not and the outcomes. It is now just shy of 5000 posts , with a wide variance of commentary. As a net result many have gained pertinent information regarding the “Cayenne Diesel” in addition to the results of the fix , but also compensation , pricing /values and what dealers are offering for trades / discounts on stop sale vehicles etc..... seems like to me that’s the intended benefit of this forum and this thread