Any Rennlisters from New Zealand?
05-20-2014, 04:57 PM
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Overall it was a very cool experience - Chris's driving was spot on, the car was brutal, and some of the roads were sublime. In two minds as to whether to do next year on the Tour in the Cayman or jump in boots and all and have a crack at the competition in the 944 with a bit of softening. Not with any expectation of being competitive but more for the raw experience. Seeing the smiles on Mark & Glen's faces at the end said it all - finishing was an achievement.
05-20-2014, 05:48 PM
Three Wheelin'
in the past that stage has been 38km and the rest of it fast. will see if I can find a clip from 2009 big air- don't do that any more in the interest of self and car preservation haha
takes ages to edit and upload vids as John knows...
takes ages to edit and upload vids as John knows...
05-20-2014, 05:53 PM
Three Wheelin'
my advice for 1st time entrants in comp is - if you can avoid the temptation do not go look at stage results until end of day. just drive own pace to finish and not be influenced by what others are doing.
05-20-2014, 07:52 PM
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You asked for it, In car video feels very slow!
I meant to install another camera and integrate our stilo amplifier, but got sick the day before which was when the non important stuff like cameras were done.
So here is a wonky in car, with car sounds but no co-driver dialogue which would have been more interesting.
Its SS19 Manawahe, in my 1984 911 3.2.
I just picked a stage which had a bit of everything. starts with a hill climb, then some tight stuff and then more open stuff. The first car off, crashed mid stage so we went to the next comms point to alert marshals.
I just noticed that I randomly picked the same stage as Graeme!!
I meant to install another camera and integrate our stilo amplifier, but got sick the day before which was when the non important stuff like cameras were done.
So here is a wonky in car, with car sounds but no co-driver dialogue which would have been more interesting.
Its SS19 Manawahe, in my 1984 911 3.2.
I just picked a stage which had a bit of everything. starts with a hill climb, then some tight stuff and then more open stuff. The first car off, crashed mid stage so we went to the next comms point to alert marshals.
I just noticed that I randomly picked the same stage as Graeme!!
05-20-2014, 07:59 PM
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If I could choose to take a passenger on the track or on a special stage. It would hands down be a special stage. the level of intensity felt from the road noise, uneven surfaces, closeness of stationary objects creates an experience like none i've had.
Started planning for October already
05-20-2014, 09:08 PM
Three Wheelin'
well done you boys definitely way to go for your first Targa. Keep it sensible and build experience.
Here is the last stage Paradise Valley and because its short you get the whole stage. With sound this time - not many instructions but you can hear Kim calling the road based on what he sees. We were generally setting stage times placing between 5th and 8th in 4wd and mostly 1st or 2nd in restrictor class.
After an off on day 2 we were a bit more careful and lucky that others in our class also had either mechanical problems or also went off and lost a stage.
Here is the last stage Paradise Valley and because its short you get the whole stage. With sound this time - not many instructions but you can hear Kim calling the road based on what he sees. We were generally setting stage times placing between 5th and 8th in 4wd and mostly 1st or 2nd in restrictor class.
After an off on day 2 we were a bit more careful and lucky that others in our class also had either mechanical problems or also went off and lost a stage.
05-20-2014, 09:56 PM
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well done you boys definitely way to go for your first Targa. Keep it sensible and build experience.
Here is the last stage Paradise Valley and because its short you get the whole stage. With sound this time - not many instructions but you can hear Kim calling the road based on what he sees. We were generally setting stage times placing between 5th and 8th in 4wd and mostly 1st or 2nd in restrictor class.
After an off on day 2 we were a bit more careful and lucky that others in our class also had either mechanical problems or also went off and lost a stage.
Here is the last stage Paradise Valley and because its short you get the whole stage. With sound this time - not many instructions but you can hear Kim calling the road based on what he sees. We were generally setting stage times placing between 5th and 8th in 4wd and mostly 1st or 2nd in restrictor class.
After an off on day 2 we were a bit more careful and lucky that others in our class also had either mechanical problems or also went off and lost a stage.
Sounds like a v good co-driver too.
05-20-2014, 10:50 PM
Three Wheelin'
we had a plan that we would both drive as George my normal co driver isn't doing SI this year so the plan was that kim and I would do NI and SI both driving. I would rate George 8/9 as a co, Kim 6 and me 7. Thing is Kim and I approach it as drivers whereas the key things for a co are different. Helping read the road is good but we aren't as good on the discipline of consistently calling the hazards at the right time.
Then middle of day 2 when we had a 30sec class lead Kim put us up a small bank though at a decent speed so really lucky that damage was repairable
Then middle of day 2 when we had a 30sec class lead Kim put us up a small bank though at a decent speed so really lucky that damage was repairable
05-21-2014, 12:14 AM
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I flew NZ6251 a 2 seater ("T bird")21 times and NZ6209 a single seater ("Model") 25 times. Also marched up Queen street sporting the squadron tie protesting the Clarke government decision. Delivered the "bird" to the photographers there as some were GSBC types so I guess my image is captured in spiesville. It was an honour and privilege to have flown with 75 Squadron RNZAF. And a huge challenge and fun as well. Now, on to low level flying in some Stuttgart metal!!!
05-21-2014, 12:17 AM
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Gearbox update.
Turns out the Porsche Motorsport 40/65 LSD is in fine condition (plates). It was dissembled and inspected today. What it needs is a new shim and bolts, to be lashed back up and all good to go. It appears it was functioning, perhaps not optimally but going most of its job in any case.
That was a nice win because the gearbox parts (excluding the gear sets) came in at just over $3K NZD! Currently we are working to see if the deposits form the inner synchro ring will remove from teh chromed gear collar without leaving any pitting or damage. If they do clean up we can re use them and that will be the extent of the cost (need to add similar to parts for labour so around 6K all up). If 3rd & 4th gear sets need replacing ($2000 a set!) I will investigate re-gearing the box to 993RS specification as I can get a reasonably (half priced) set of factory new RS 3rd & 4th out of the US right now and would "only" have to fork retail for 2nd and 5th. However the gearbox rebuild would then owe me north of 10K NZD all said and done!
I think there is a lesson in here somewhere. Something to do with expensive hobbies probably!
Dean has identified that it is probably driving style that has accelerated the wear here. In the early days learning heel & toe and probably more recent years using that technique but not always getting the rev match right causing friction and heat. On the road I dont have an issue with H&T and do it fine on the track I know a few times each day Ive not matched the revs well. Part of the challenge is the speed at which the engine decelerates - have lightweight flywheel, clutch, RS pulley and RS crank pulley and a lumpy cam all of which make life a bit harder to get this perfect. I think Ill reserve H&T for very fast committed 5th to 3rd corners like T1 HD and the end of the back straight Taupo!
Some parts will come from germany so it looks like it could be 4 weeks before the box is back in the car and the rest of the work (plenty of it) can resume. In the meantime we will drop the engine and inspect the valve timing and change the plugs etc. Fingers big time crossed no expensive issues lurking there just yet.
The car is increasingly becoming developed for quick lap times and as such much of this will have to be chalked up to "development" and learning . Ive no doubt when all the current work has been done the 993 will be an even better track car (well it should help being able to change gears easily I would hope!). If someone as green as me can punt it around the track as quick as it currently goes in total novice circumstances then I think we are heading in the right direction with the cars set up and handling/performance. Just needs a tad more sympathy or a bigger cheque book!
P.S. Chose to go for standard new factory brass synchros 2/3/4 as opposed to steel cut ones. Apart from the fact the steel ones are 4 times the price I took Deans advice that given the wear we are seeing going steel would be a potential expensive issue. The synchro may last twice as long but it will transfer the wear and damage to the gear set itself which is where the big $$$ are!
The other big lesson here is timing in getting this work done. If your car is a "keeper" and will see regular track duty and is starting to display signs of synchro issues today then I would strongly recommend looking at getting it sorted out sooner than later. The problem being that when the synchros arent performing their duty the heat in the box builds up and causes potential expensive damage to the components such as the gear sets. the difference in cost between just replacing a few synchos , some gaskets and few smaller components vs having to tackle a couple of gearsets is $2500 in parts vs 7500! For example Nigel just had the box re done on the 996 GT3. That car has done less km than mine but hes also a fairly aggressive driver and started to have syncho issues. I saw the rings and they were already wearing on the edge of the inners. He caught it just the right time. Given the pace he punts the thing and the subsequent heat build up over time as the ring lost metal it would have potentially accelerated wear elsewhere in the box. I know its an easy "ill wait till it becomes a real problem" job and looking at the $$$ I have no wonder why - its exactly what I said to myself but in hindsight I should have had it done before SITT regardless of funds availability as in the end it could end up costing me almost twice as much...
P.S. Paul. I see Mark in USA has costed you up the same diff as I have. I can now confirm its a strong enough unit after a it of a panic earlier in the week. Installed and lashed up nicely it will improve your cornering speed. However the install cost is something to consider (may be 12-15 hrs plus shims, bolts and ancillary hardware).
Turns out the Porsche Motorsport 40/65 LSD is in fine condition (plates). It was dissembled and inspected today. What it needs is a new shim and bolts, to be lashed back up and all good to go. It appears it was functioning, perhaps not optimally but going most of its job in any case.
That was a nice win because the gearbox parts (excluding the gear sets) came in at just over $3K NZD! Currently we are working to see if the deposits form the inner synchro ring will remove from teh chromed gear collar without leaving any pitting or damage. If they do clean up we can re use them and that will be the extent of the cost (need to add similar to parts for labour so around 6K all up). If 3rd & 4th gear sets need replacing ($2000 a set!) I will investigate re-gearing the box to 993RS specification as I can get a reasonably (half priced) set of factory new RS 3rd & 4th out of the US right now and would "only" have to fork retail for 2nd and 5th. However the gearbox rebuild would then owe me north of 10K NZD all said and done!
I think there is a lesson in here somewhere. Something to do with expensive hobbies probably!
Dean has identified that it is probably driving style that has accelerated the wear here. In the early days learning heel & toe and probably more recent years using that technique but not always getting the rev match right causing friction and heat. On the road I dont have an issue with H&T and do it fine on the track I know a few times each day Ive not matched the revs well. Part of the challenge is the speed at which the engine decelerates - have lightweight flywheel, clutch, RS pulley and RS crank pulley and a lumpy cam all of which make life a bit harder to get this perfect. I think Ill reserve H&T for very fast committed 5th to 3rd corners like T1 HD and the end of the back straight Taupo!
Some parts will come from germany so it looks like it could be 4 weeks before the box is back in the car and the rest of the work (plenty of it) can resume. In the meantime we will drop the engine and inspect the valve timing and change the plugs etc. Fingers big time crossed no expensive issues lurking there just yet.
The car is increasingly becoming developed for quick lap times and as such much of this will have to be chalked up to "development" and learning . Ive no doubt when all the current work has been done the 993 will be an even better track car (well it should help being able to change gears easily I would hope!). If someone as green as me can punt it around the track as quick as it currently goes in total novice circumstances then I think we are heading in the right direction with the cars set up and handling/performance. Just needs a tad more sympathy or a bigger cheque book!
P.S. Chose to go for standard new factory brass synchros 2/3/4 as opposed to steel cut ones. Apart from the fact the steel ones are 4 times the price I took Deans advice that given the wear we are seeing going steel would be a potential expensive issue. The synchro may last twice as long but it will transfer the wear and damage to the gear set itself which is where the big $$$ are!
The other big lesson here is timing in getting this work done. If your car is a "keeper" and will see regular track duty and is starting to display signs of synchro issues today then I would strongly recommend looking at getting it sorted out sooner than later. The problem being that when the synchros arent performing their duty the heat in the box builds up and causes potential expensive damage to the components such as the gear sets. the difference in cost between just replacing a few synchos , some gaskets and few smaller components vs having to tackle a couple of gearsets is $2500 in parts vs 7500! For example Nigel just had the box re done on the 996 GT3. That car has done less km than mine but hes also a fairly aggressive driver and started to have syncho issues. I saw the rings and they were already wearing on the edge of the inners. He caught it just the right time. Given the pace he punts the thing and the subsequent heat build up over time as the ring lost metal it would have potentially accelerated wear elsewhere in the box. I know its an easy "ill wait till it becomes a real problem" job and looking at the $$$ I have no wonder why - its exactly what I said to myself but in hindsight I should have had it done before SITT regardless of funds availability as in the end it could end up costing me almost twice as much...
P.S. Paul. I see Mark in USA has costed you up the same diff as I have. I can now confirm its a strong enough unit after a it of a panic earlier in the week. Installed and lashed up nicely it will improve your cornering speed. However the install cost is something to consider (may be 12-15 hrs plus shims, bolts and ancillary hardware).
05-21-2014, 12:23 AM
Rennlist Member
I flew NZ6251 a 2 seater ("T bird")21 times and NZ6209 a single seater ("Model") 25 times. Also marched up Queen street sporting the squadron tie protesting the Clarke government decision. Delivered the "bird" to the photographers there as some were GSBC types so I guess my image is captured in spiesville. It was an honour and privilege to have flown with 75 Squadron RNZAF. And a huge challenge and fun as well. Now, on to low level flying in some Stuttgart metal!!!
05-21-2014, 12:35 AM
Rennlist Member
Gearbox update. Turns out the Porsche Motorsport 40/65 LSD is in fine condition (plates). It was dissembled and inspected today. What it needs is a new shim and bolts, to be lashed back up and all good to go. It appears it was functioning, perhaps not optimally but going most of its job in any case. That was a nice win because the gearbox parts (excluding the gear sets) came in at just over $3K NZD! Currently we are working to see if the deposits form the inner synchro ring will remove from teh chromed gear collar without leaving any pitting or damage. If they do clean up we can re use them and that will be the extent of the cost (need to add similar to parts for labour so around 6K all up). If 3rd & 4th gear sets need replacing ($2000 a set!) I will investigate re-gearing the box to 993RS specification as I can get a reasonably (half priced) set of factory new RS 3rd & 4th out of the US right now and would "only" have to fork retail for 2nd and 5th. However the gearbox rebuild would then owe me north of 10K NZD all said and done! I think there is a lesson in here somewhere. Something to do with expensive hobbies probably! Dean has identified that it is probably driving style that has accelerated the wear here. In the early days learning heel & toe and probably more recent years using that technique but not always getting the rev match right causing friction and heat. On the road I dont have an issue with H&T and do it fine on the track I know a few times each day Ive not matched the revs well. Part of the challenge is the speed at which the engine decelerates - have lightweight flywheel, clutch, RS pulley and RS crank pulley and a lumpy cam all of which make life a bit harder to get this perfect. I think Ill reserve H&T for very fast committed 5th to 3rd corners like T1 HD and the end of the back straight Taupo! Some parts will come from germany so it looks like it could be 4 weeks before the box is back in the car and the rest of the work (plenty of it) can resume. In the meantime we will drop the engine and inspect the valve timing and change the plugs etc. Fingers big time crossed no expensive issues lurking there just yet. The car is increasingly becoming developed for quick lap times and as such much of this will have to be chalked up to "development" and learning . Ive no doubt when all the current work has been done the 993 will be an even better track car (well it should help being able to change gears easily I would hope!). If someone as green as me can punt it around the track as quick as it currently goes in total novice circumstances then I think we are heading in the right direction with the cars set up and handling/performance. Just needs a tad more sympathy or a bigger cheque book! P.S. Chose to go for standard new factory brass synchros 2/3/4 as opposed to steel cut ones. Apart from the fact the steel ones are 4 times the price I took Deans advice that given the wear we are seeing going steel would be a potential expensive issue. The synchro may last twice as long but it will transfer the wear and damage to the gear set itself which is where the big $$$ are! The other big lesson here is timing in getting this work done. If your car is a "keeper" and will see regular track duty and is starting to display signs of synchro issues today then I would strongly recommend looking at getting it sorted out sooner than later. The problem being that when the synchros arent performing their duty the heat in the box builds up and causes potential expensive damage to the components such as the gear sets. the difference in cost between just replacing a few synchos , some gaskets and few smaller components vs having to tackle a couple of gearsets is $2500 in parts vs 7500! For example Nigel just had the box re done on the 996 GT3. That car has done less km than mine but hes also a fairly aggressive driver and started to have syncho issues. I saw the rings and they were already wearing on the edge of the inners. He caught it just the right time. Given the pace he punts the thing and the subsequent heat build up over time as the ring lost metal it would have potentially accelerated wear elsewhere in the box. I know its an easy "ill wait till it becomes a real problem" job and looking at the $$$ I have no wonder why - its exactly what I said to myself but in hindsight I should have had it done before SITT regardless of funds availability as in the end it could end up costing me almost twice as much... P.S. Paul. I see Mark in USA has costed you up the same diff as I have. I can now confirm its a strong enough unit after a it of a panic earlier in the week. Installed and lashed up nicely it will improve your cornering speed. However the install cost is something to consider (may be 12-15 hrs plus shims, bolts and ancillary hardware).
I have no appetite for a gearbox rebuild. If I can't track Herman and preserve his current good road manners without a rebuild then his track visits will be even more tame.
05-21-2014, 12:39 AM
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Well, that's slightly better news Macca. At least it's not as bad as it could've been.
When I bought the Race Car, Geoff @ Racetek told me to make sure I plumbed up the trans cooler. Not sure how expensive the kits are but he seemed to think they need it for extended track time. Maybe a while you're in there to help with durability.
When I bought the Race Car, Geoff @ Racetek told me to make sure I plumbed up the trans cooler. Not sure how expensive the kits are but he seemed to think they need it for extended track time. Maybe a while you're in there to help with durability.
05-21-2014, 02:24 AM
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must be able to be quoted in polite company!!!!ERWIN springs to mind.
05-21-2014, 03:11 AM
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[QUOTE=Macca;11382944]
P.S. Paul. I see Mark in USA has costed you up the same diff as I have. I can now confirm its a strong enough unit after a it of a panic earlier in the week. Installed and lashed up nicely it will improve your cornering speed. However the install cost is something to consider (may be 12-15 hrs plus shims, bolts and ancillary hardware).[/QUOTE
Yeah - but not happening though........
I will rebuild the rear suspension in an attempt to get rid of the car breaking traction (which is really trucking annoying) - but that's it. By the time I make good the paint and a bit of interior detailing - I think I will be close to a hundie and once again grossly over capitalised.
I must be at $80K at the mo?? And another $5K on the way??
I need to go back to vintage BMX bikes - cheaper hobby and might do my waste line some good.
P.S. Paul. I see Mark in USA has costed you up the same diff as I have. I can now confirm its a strong enough unit after a it of a panic earlier in the week. Installed and lashed up nicely it will improve your cornering speed. However the install cost is something to consider (may be 12-15 hrs plus shims, bolts and ancillary hardware).[/QUOTE
Yeah - but not happening though........
I will rebuild the rear suspension in an attempt to get rid of the car breaking traction (which is really trucking annoying) - but that's it. By the time I make good the paint and a bit of interior detailing - I think I will be close to a hundie and once again grossly over capitalised.
I must be at $80K at the mo?? And another $5K on the way??
I need to go back to vintage BMX bikes - cheaper hobby and might do my waste line some good.