Any Rennlisters from New Zealand?
#5371
Rennlist Member
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Thanks Macca. How come I can look for ages on the rennlist forums and not find this good stuff? :-( Is there a way to go into a forum (eg 987-981 forum) and just search that forum. When I search, eg brake cooling it seems to search the whole site, not the actual forum you are in. I've found a few regular 987 track addicts so we're not a completely rare breed, ha ha.
It depends how you are accessing Rennlist. If on iPhone or iPad app then it searches everything. If on the normal Internet then the default is every forum. You need to uncheck that and just select the forum you want to search.
#5372
Rennlist Member
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Doug. Alternatively go into the forum you wish to search and right hand top next to "thread tools" button is "search this thread" button. This is what I do for all my searches. Try a variety of key words and it will bring up only those searches on that forum.
Graeme. Your brake cooling system uses smart logic. Mine is not as targeted. The system below is what I would be deploying on the boxster myself with the same for the rear too. It would require some small modification for boxster and I would likely get my air pick up form inside the front bumper as I find anything that suits below the A -arms has chance of getting crushed on Targa roads.
Of course your car is 4WD and not set up for the track but that time is still very good. I suspect if it were on track geo, gearing and suspension settings you would be seeing 1.16s at Manfield. 4th gear through Higgins is very short gearing, I enter in 3rd (6 speed gearbox) heel/toe from 4th under brakes less than 80m out, carry 3rd through Higgins laying on the gas at precisely the apex rumble strip and into 4th shortly after the inertia has pushed me out to the rumble strip opposite site 150m further up. I stay in 4th hitting the limiter at 7000rpm at the end of the straight into Dunlop. You must be running into 6th there before brakes!!!
Graeme. Your brake cooling system uses smart logic. Mine is not as targeted. The system below is what I would be deploying on the boxster myself with the same for the rear too. It would require some small modification for boxster and I would likely get my air pick up form inside the front bumper as I find anything that suits below the A -arms has chance of getting crushed on Targa roads.
Of course your car is 4WD and not set up for the track but that time is still very good. I suspect if it were on track geo, gearing and suspension settings you would be seeing 1.16s at Manfield. 4th gear through Higgins is very short gearing, I enter in 3rd (6 speed gearbox) heel/toe from 4th under brakes less than 80m out, carry 3rd through Higgins laying on the gas at precisely the apex rumble strip and into 4th shortly after the inertia has pushed me out to the rumble strip opposite site 150m further up. I stay in 4th hitting the limiter at 7000rpm at the end of the straight into Dunlop. You must be running into 6th there before brakes!!!
#5373
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#5374
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Thanks Macca, I simply hadn't noticed it. Perfect for what I want :-)
#5375
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Decided to clean up the garage. Didn't get far before I got sidetracked with the car. Front tyres holding up very well. I wonder at some stage if I should change left for right? Brake pads unevenly worn. Is that usual? Doug, here is the 964 deflector. As for the wheel offset. Looks like I need another set of spacers.
#5376
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Thanks for the brake cooling duct photos. With the newly discovered search function ive found a good boxster spyder post showing the use of 987 gt3 and turbo ducts on the Boxster.
#5377
Rennlist Member
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Thanks Paul. Even more useful as 964/993 80% similar (despite the marketing nonsense!).
Doug. No problem hope that helps. Also look at the racers thread further down the main page for info. There are a few kicking around the boards with Syders and Cayman R's that take them to the track and run them very hard (one guy with PDK knocking Thunder Hill out in same time at 996.2 GT3) so keep an eye out for those guys and ask them if they have seen a solution that may work or what pads they use etc.
John. Normally pads would wear slightly faster on the side they are hotttest on. Id check the other side. Your wear looks a bit extreme. Id ask Dean for advice. Id definitely recommend considering a caliper rebuild as the piston boots fail with age and the pistons loose their pressure under hydrallics. Generally they should be rebuilt on a 964 around now in any case and more so given track work. You may have a sticky piston on the inward facing side and it may be contributing to the uneven wear. Looking at the picture it would appear you have around 5-6mm left on the thinnest pad which I would say is plenty for you for another 2-3 HS sessions before you need to replace. Discs also look pretty good for now. Those tyres looks hardly used compared to mine! I measure mine up aster NITT and was 2.75-3.8mm across the front surface and 3-4mm across the rear. Big camber settings tho. Once you push on a bit more you will find them wearing twice the rate I suspect. You could probably do with some more negative camber once you get quicker - as Pete will tell you once you start getting down to the 1.20's you will find the outside of the tyre wears quicker - so can offset that a bit with more aggressive camber given this is not a Daily Driver. These are great tyres though - Im very pleased with them even if they are relatively expensive to run they just give great grip in wet and dry.
The rubbing issue is curious. Once you get some more negative camber on or some firmer springs it may go away. It doesn't look bad at all. I would try a 7 mm ebaich spacer (maximum non hub centric). Try to avoid a 7 mm+ mm as it will be hub-centric and adds around 1kg per side to un-sprung weight and adds complexity and cost (you need another 10 alloy factory nuts etc). Eitherway it doesnt look bad enough to get too concerned as its just touching the plastic liner right now. I bet its happening worse on one side but not the other?
Doug. No problem hope that helps. Also look at the racers thread further down the main page for info. There are a few kicking around the boards with Syders and Cayman R's that take them to the track and run them very hard (one guy with PDK knocking Thunder Hill out in same time at 996.2 GT3) so keep an eye out for those guys and ask them if they have seen a solution that may work or what pads they use etc.
John. Normally pads would wear slightly faster on the side they are hotttest on. Id check the other side. Your wear looks a bit extreme. Id ask Dean for advice. Id definitely recommend considering a caliper rebuild as the piston boots fail with age and the pistons loose their pressure under hydrallics. Generally they should be rebuilt on a 964 around now in any case and more so given track work. You may have a sticky piston on the inward facing side and it may be contributing to the uneven wear. Looking at the picture it would appear you have around 5-6mm left on the thinnest pad which I would say is plenty for you for another 2-3 HS sessions before you need to replace. Discs also look pretty good for now. Those tyres looks hardly used compared to mine! I measure mine up aster NITT and was 2.75-3.8mm across the front surface and 3-4mm across the rear. Big camber settings tho. Once you push on a bit more you will find them wearing twice the rate I suspect. You could probably do with some more negative camber once you get quicker - as Pete will tell you once you start getting down to the 1.20's you will find the outside of the tyre wears quicker - so can offset that a bit with more aggressive camber given this is not a Daily Driver. These are great tyres though - Im very pleased with them even if they are relatively expensive to run they just give great grip in wet and dry.
The rubbing issue is curious. Once you get some more negative camber on or some firmer springs it may go away. It doesn't look bad at all. I would try a 7 mm ebaich spacer (maximum non hub centric). Try to avoid a 7 mm+ mm as it will be hub-centric and adds around 1kg per side to un-sprung weight and adds complexity and cost (you need another 10 alloy factory nuts etc). Eitherway it doesnt look bad enough to get too concerned as its just touching the plastic liner right now. I bet its happening worse on one side but not the other?
#5378
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John - I'll be around not too far away. Time for a quick hoon before Bathurst gets underway! Gotta love this weekend F1 at Suzuka (great track) and Bathhurst. If qualifying and the shootout are anything to go by its going to be a heck of a race.
Also, see you are using the scissor lift. I just got one of the race jacks from Steve - they go very low and have a shorter handle which is useful in tighter places - like when you have 3 Pcars side by side!!
Also, see you are using the scissor lift. I just got one of the race jacks from Steve - they go very low and have a shorter handle which is useful in tighter places - like when you have 3 Pcars side by side!!
#5379
Three Wheelin'
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Macca - its the old fit for purpose thing. In the Targa car I am hitting 6th everywhere. In fact just mucking about in the wet I was just driving around the hairpin at the end of the front straight in 4th too ad not far off the torque curve and getting the rear moving a bit out of the corner even in 4th and 4wd - the centre diff dialed a little bit further back biased to kill understeer. so only the infield hairpin in 3rd. The issue is the restrictor strangling the power oat higher revs but plenty of torque at 3-4k.
#5380
Three Wheelin'
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took the 911 out for a spin yesterday and am now starting to get more familiar with LHD. It was little surprising to me how unnatural heel toe with a RH gear change felt to me. Still not instantaneous but getting better. And that's from a toe tapping left foot braker like me. Some how the RH and opposite push pull motion messes with my brain in my feet!
#5381
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Changed over to my track wheels and had a good look at brake cooling. The front factory ducts are quite large but not as aggressively contoured as the GT3 or GT2 ones. There are NONE on the rear. Explains why there is chatter in the forums focused on rear cooling options.
First 2 photos front. 3rd is rear.
First 2 photos front. 3rd is rear.
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https://touch.trademe.co.nz/listing/view/648340879
#5383
Rennlist Member
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Yes. That's a good jack for home/track use. I picked mine up on TM 4 years ago for similar price - think I posted it here a while back when we were having discussions. Just gets under the 993 - just!
Graeme. I drive LHD every day but 2300 kg automatic 4X4 truck LOL! Never thought about the heel/toe in a LHD thing (never driven a car that deserved it here) so just borrowed the neighbors and can confirm its definitely needs some concentration/coordination. Didn't help there pedals far more spread than 911. Got it after a bit of practice but you are right its the right hand shifting thing needs to get head around...bit like LFB. Do it regularly in the auto but for a manual still haven't got the knack. Didnt even attempt it on the track with the 911. Not sure how handy it would be on anything other than shingle but will persevere. However practice windows get narrow now M5 sold, all auto in Vauatu and also 991 GT3 with PDK-S (will be using LFB with this car for sure...)
Graeme. I drive LHD every day but 2300 kg automatic 4X4 truck LOL! Never thought about the heel/toe in a LHD thing (never driven a car that deserved it here) so just borrowed the neighbors and can confirm its definitely needs some concentration/coordination. Didn't help there pedals far more spread than 911. Got it after a bit of practice but you are right its the right hand shifting thing needs to get head around...bit like LFB. Do it regularly in the auto but for a manual still haven't got the knack. Didnt even attempt it on the track with the 911. Not sure how handy it would be on anything other than shingle but will persevere. However practice windows get narrow now M5 sold, all auto in Vauatu and also 991 GT3 with PDK-S (will be using LFB with this car for sure...)
#5385
Burning Brakes
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Doug, I think that the 997 gt3 ducts will also go on the front of your car. They are very cheap from a number of places - it looks like your stock ones are the same as my old stock fronts. Are you sure you need rear cooling? I don't for whatever reason, but car is different sure. Try some rotor paint or caliper temp stickers? We used caliper stickers on matts car to find it is very evenly using front and rear brakes. Mine puts all the heat into the fronts for some reason, which is why I need the extra front cooling.