John McM

Well, if you have the time that would be appreciated. I have my Frankenstein d90s out there. In two minds about the Champiros. Either dump them or put them on trademe.

peterC2S

No worries - just let me know. If you want both sets I can get them one day and Paul's the next. If not I'll pick up yours and Paul's on the same trip. No hassle either way as I'll be driving right past Mega a couple of times this week.

John McM

Might as well get both sets brought home. Thanks.

We could put the Champiros on Paul's car if he goes past his 7/10ths point on those crap Z221s.

John McM

Actually just remembered I also have 3 of the old Z221s out there. I'll tell Brian to dump the Champiros

Macca

Paul. Have your pads checked for SITT. I have 5-6 mm left on mine (photos earlier post) but they wont take 4 full track days. I was going to take a new set down but have now decided to have those fitted and save the baggage. Given you will still be doing maybe 2000 km of touring Id say youll need as much pad as the rest of us...rears are on back order at EMD until end of month so you may want to get an order in. Check with Dean.

John McM

I'm being multiple part used spares, including OEM Textar T428FF. Maybe 2 track days left on them.

John McM

Mmm, I have 135mm at front. I'll let Mr Adler sort this out.

Macca

John. The advice if was given was that factory pads that thin would be down to the sensor and would put far too much thermal load through the system to be worth putting on the car for any track use. They may be an emergency solution to getting home however. The 993 uses larger sizes I believe.

These were the measurements taken in October before the Langes beach run (and maybe 500km of subsequent daily driving).

• Front discs – L 30.92mm , R 31.06mm (min thickness=30mm/32 new)
• Front brake pads – Left 5mm , Right 6mm ( new pad thickness 11mm )
• Rear discs – L 23.06mm , R 23.03mm (min thickness=22mm/24 new)
• Rear brake pads – Left 5mm , Right 5mm ( new pad thickness 12mm )

As you can see the discs are half life (Dean reckons they'll come back to Auckland pretty much fully lifed), and the pads are around 40%. The consensus here is you wouldnt want to take these below 25% on the track - they will double the heat through the system for the last 25%! This is the point you find out how well maintained your components are like brake pistons, brake lines and hydraulics.

Maxem

I was always a bit confused with measuring from Chassis to ground to get ride height. There are too many variables in there to get it accurate. Tyre brand, profile, tread, pressure etc. I would have thought a better measuring point would be from centre of axle to fender lip. That would be then a true reflection of wheel to chassis relationship.?
Eg, one set of D90's I had had a tyre profile one size down so that would change the chassis height from ground but not relationship between chassis and hub.

Macca

Dead right. Even alot of negative camber will mean 2-3mm difference in the height. Tread depth etc as you say a few more etc. Im assuming the factory figures are guidelines only and assume new tyres, factory camber settings and recommended pressures. The +/- variables they give would well account for the differences we are talking about. I have no doubt on road tyres with road camber settings I am RS+10mm not RS+5mm like with track tyres on. Your idea from axle hub to fender is a very good one...

John McM

Correct. That's why they are spares. Rob looped my wear sensors. According to him tracked cars don't need them as drivers should be checking pads and they can give false readings.

19 days to pre SITT. While the offshore suppliers can be quick we're entering the danger zone for ordering and fitting items. My springs ex UK are taking a long time to arrive. Still have to fit them on time for the 26th.

O2GO

This morning I picked up my son Jeremy and we headed up to my folks place at Whangaparoa, taking the long way. We went up SH16 and followed the route we took on the Langs Beach drive through to Warkworth then back to Whangaparoa on SH1.

It was hot. Jeremy drove most of the way which I think made his day pretty much.

We stopped a couple of times to take photos of Lola. She was beautifully clean when I picked her up from Dave last Monday but not any more.

I found the original drivers seat worked well except when I took one speed bum too quickly and hit my head. I can see why some people choose to delete the sunroof to get a bit more head room.

We had the heater fan on full, sunroof open and window down (passenger window switch wiring needs attention as Dave warned me) and still cooked.

We took it easy enjoying hard acceleration on the straights and conservative cornering. Can't wait to become much more acquainted to her handling and getting a bit more aggressive.

We took a wrong turn at one point ended up on a metal road and about 400m of horrible corrugations. It shook a bolt loose on the rear spoiler and we heard scratching noise which was the drive motor slipping its cog on the drive rack. I disconnected power to it and we carried on until I was able to duct tape it down at my Dad's place. It's temporarily disabled until I can get it in for a service. The bolt is pretty specialised :-(

On the list is regassing the aircon to see what shape it's in (how long the gas lasts).

Here's a few photos, naturally at this stage mostly of the car....

O2GO

My C2 ride height:
Centre hub to inside lip of guard
Pic 1 Front: 335
Pic 2 Rear: 325

CS Mende

Beautiful drive & car! Cup2's look great - not that D90's don't!

If you're doing any work on the rear spoiler mechanism, check out the gear/cog bearing replacement DIY. Under $10 in parts and fixes loudness issues if it's a bit noisy.

I'm reminded yet again of a small job I did on my car which seems so minuscule now. Should be able to reuse it, though.

John McM

The C4 looks sad, but I imagine there's a lot of value still in there for your rebuild.