Any Rennlisters from New Zealand?
10-09-2013, 06:20 AM
#5266
Rennlist Member
BTW: what's the plan with the C4 and associated bits?
10-09-2013, 06:21 AM
#5268
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Location: Auckland, NZ
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10-09-2013, 06:22 AM
#5269
Rennlist Member
Hi John. If you find this before me please can you let me know and Ill get some too. I had Dean change out the oil in the box before the NITT. Was under $100. Just the standard Castrol or shell product they use. I had the oil changed with the same before the Targa. In my ownership its had four gearbox oil changes all the same factory fill oil. Id be surprised if something different solves my problem but I do think a good oil will help with yours. Still, its worth a try for me along with the harder engine mounts.......
10-09-2013, 06:29 AM
#5270
Rennlist Member
One of the reasons I am a GP White fan is the ability to tart it up. The butt needs something to break up the expanse and define the curve. As for other decals, just the race numbers to go on.
10-09-2013, 06:31 AM
#5271
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C4 may have a home but no rush. I seriously have mixed feelings about selling - but there are other itches to scratch! Cayman S or R being 2 of them! No stock here but plenty in the UK and x-rate still favourable.
Ditto that - looked really good.
10-09-2013, 06:40 AM
#5272
Rennlist Member
10-09-2013, 06:43 AM
#5273
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Kapiti - New Zealand
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Hi John. If you find this before me please can you let me know and Ill get some too. I had Dean change out the oil in the box before the NITT. Was under $100. Just the standard Castrol or shell product they use. I had the oil changed with the same before the Targa. In my ownership its had four gearbox oil changes all the same factory fill oil. Id be surprised if something different solves my problem but I do think a good oil will help with yours. Still, its worth a try for me along with the harder engine mounts.......
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...for-993-a.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...ng-solved.html
I ordered it from my local http://www.bntnz.co.nz/ who had to procure it. From memory it was flippen expensive. The specific product is RedLine 75-90 NS http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=47&pcid=7
My box is certainly not perfect but it definitely is better and its a cheaper alternative to a rebuild. The G50 is a box that you can't rush the shift though and you certainly "learn" to shft it.
Last edited by Kiwi Carguy; 10-09-2013 at 07:07 AM.
10-09-2013, 07:03 AM
#5274
Rennlist Member
There's been a few threads on the topic. https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...for-993-a.html https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...ng-solved.html I ordered it from my local http://www.bntnz.co.nz/ who had to procure it. From memory it was flippen expensive. The specific product is RedLine 75-90 NS http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=47&pcid=7 By box is certainly not perfect but it definitely is better and its a cheaper alternative to a rebuild. The G50 is a box that you can't rush the shift though and you certainly "learn" to shft it.
10-09-2013, 07:55 AM
#5275
Rennlist Member
10-09-2013, 05:10 PM
#5277
Rennlist Member
Hey John. I had a good read on Jamies links and others last night. That oil really seems to be the thing for straightening out syncho issues hot or cold. Im not sure how much a car with LSD needs but assume around 2.5-3L. I dropped an email to the distributor to see if any is held in stock in NZ. We can work it from both ends of the supply chain...
10-09-2013, 05:22 PM
#5278
Burning Brakes
Hmmmm.... I've read heaps about the IMS over the last couple of years and this is my second M96 based car. Reading on some of the racing forums the cars, talking to experienced service people, those that are raced or driven hard rarely have the problems. Drive them hard and they last. Low mileage ones and those driven at low revs tend to be the problem cases. Yep, I'd have preferred the extra 15hp and the DFI engine.... But it will have to wait for a while.
10-09-2013, 05:31 PM
#5279
Burning Brakes
On Brakes: (post slightly late but...)
As you all know I had issues with my brakes, still not flash really. Anyway, I wanted to chip in on the EBC's. I had yellow in front and red in back when I first got the car and did 2 drivers days like that. They eventually cooked and crumbled in the middle, but until that time and even during it(!) they felt very nice, progressive, good bite, no material transfer or juddering. I later found out that my driving style is too hard on brakes anyway and creates too much heat. I had terrible problems with the Pagid Blue 4-2 on my car as Dave knows, and now have gone to PFC08 all round which quite frankly apart from being able to handle the heat are terrible to drive with.
So, for the average driver or rather someone who doesn't heat the brakes too much, the EBC yellows are a terrific pad. Awesome cold bite, nice feel, NO squeaking, bit dusty though but easy to remove. Just in my case they didn't handle the heat - plus they're cheap... Stopped really well on the track too, even though they were stuffed! Actually in my estimation a far better pad than the pagid 4-2, which caused me no end of judder problems and almost had me flying off HD turn 1.
As you all know I had issues with my brakes, still not flash really. Anyway, I wanted to chip in on the EBC's. I had yellow in front and red in back when I first got the car and did 2 drivers days like that. They eventually cooked and crumbled in the middle, but until that time and even during it(!) they felt very nice, progressive, good bite, no material transfer or juddering. I later found out that my driving style is too hard on brakes anyway and creates too much heat. I had terrible problems with the Pagid Blue 4-2 on my car as Dave knows, and now have gone to PFC08 all round which quite frankly apart from being able to handle the heat are terrible to drive with.
So, for the average driver or rather someone who doesn't heat the brakes too much, the EBC yellows are a terrific pad. Awesome cold bite, nice feel, NO squeaking, bit dusty though but easy to remove. Just in my case they didn't handle the heat - plus they're cheap... Stopped really well on the track too, even though they were stuffed! Actually in my estimation a far better pad than the pagid 4-2, which caused me no end of judder problems and almost had me flying off HD turn 1.
10-09-2013, 05:39 PM
#5280
Burning Brakes
We've discovered that we can't replace the IMS in my engine as Porsche changed the IMS design for model year 2006 onwards to a larger bearing that can't be extracted through the rear of the crankcase because it's a few mm too large for the hole (from memory 52mm vs 48mm). After removing the rear seal off the bearing it was found to be dry (grease leached out) but sound. We're going to leave the rear seal off so that it receives engine oil for lubrication. This is a well known improvement to the bearing to aid its lubrication. It's a pity it couldn't be replaced with a ceramic version as I'd then be able to rest a little easier. So we are back to regularly replacing the oil filter and cutting it open to inspect it for metal fragments.
I really wanted to get a 2009+ 987.2 model with the redesigned DFI engine which doesn't have an IMS but to find a Boxster S manual in this form NZ new is almost impossible. The only reliable option was to import one from the UK but when this car being 2007 NZ new 1 owner was a good compromise.
I really wanted to get a 2009+ 987.2 model with the redesigned DFI engine which doesn't have an IMS but to find a Boxster S manual in this form NZ new is almost impossible. The only reliable option was to import one from the UK but when this car being 2007 NZ new 1 owner was a good compromise.