Any Rennlisters from New Zealand?
10-09-2013, 05:41 PM
#5281
Rennlist Member
Hey John. I had a good read on Jamies links and others last night. That oil really seems to be the thing for straightening out syncho issues hot or cold. Im not sure how much a car with LSD needs but assume around 2.5-3L. I dropped an email to the distributor to see if any is held in stock in NZ. We can work it from both ends of the supply chain...
As for volume, I need 3.5 liters per fill.
10-09-2013, 07:14 PM
#5282
Rennlist Member
John. Agree. plus he cant get stuff any cheaper. I have made contact with importer and they will supply direct. please see email in your inbox. I need 3.8 L with LSD. Price looks acceptable.....
10-09-2013, 08:22 PM
#5284
Drifting
On Brakes: (post slightly late but...)
As you all know I had issues with my brakes, still not flash really. Anyway, I wanted to chip in on the EBC's. I had yellow in front and red in back when I first got the car and did 2 drivers days like that. They eventually cooked and crumbled in the middle, but until that time and even during it(!) they felt very nice, progressive, good bite, no material transfer or juddering. I later found out that my driving style is too hard on brakes anyway and creates too much heat. I had terrible problems with the Pagid Blue 4-2 on my car as Dave knows, and now have gone to PFC08 all round which quite frankly apart from being able to handle the heat are terrible to drive with.
So, for the average driver or rather someone who doesn't heat the brakes too much, the EBC yellows are a terrific pad. Awesome cold bite, nice feel, NO squeaking, bit dusty though but easy to remove. Just in my case they didn't handle the heat - plus they're cheap... Stopped really well on the track too, even though they were stuffed! Actually in my estimation a far better pad than the pagid 4-2, which caused me no end of judder problems and almost had me flying off HD turn 1.
As you all know I had issues with my brakes, still not flash really. Anyway, I wanted to chip in on the EBC's. I had yellow in front and red in back when I first got the car and did 2 drivers days like that. They eventually cooked and crumbled in the middle, but until that time and even during it(!) they felt very nice, progressive, good bite, no material transfer or juddering. I later found out that my driving style is too hard on brakes anyway and creates too much heat. I had terrible problems with the Pagid Blue 4-2 on my car as Dave knows, and now have gone to PFC08 all round which quite frankly apart from being able to handle the heat are terrible to drive with.
So, for the average driver or rather someone who doesn't heat the brakes too much, the EBC yellows are a terrific pad. Awesome cold bite, nice feel, NO squeaking, bit dusty though but easy to remove. Just in my case they didn't handle the heat - plus they're cheap... Stopped really well on the track too, even though they were stuffed! Actually in my estimation a far better pad than the pagid 4-2, which caused me no end of judder problems and almost had me flying off HD turn 1.
I have pagid 4-2 blues which have done three days now with excellent results. Driving the car lately I detect a slight grabbing with gentle stops which signals to me the beginning of the end. Uneven pad deposits are occurring and this will get pretty bad over the next few track days then become un usable.
The rough running porker on the return leg from manfeild was in fact the DME relay. All sorted now.
10-09-2013, 08:38 PM
#5285
Drifting
Lunchtime opinion.
Porsche's stance of turning their backs on the IMS, RMS and other recent watercooled engine issues was / is shameful. I rank this up there with them introducing tiptronic transmissions and anything with 4 doors. I'm following the modern DFI engines with interest to see how they fare. For me, that means about 10 years of 911 used stock that I won't be buying anytime soon. Thats a shame. Mind you, I treated the 964 with equal disdain for 24 years before warming up to one. Good news is, like with the 964, is that time and development of more cost effective fixes occurs and when a 996.1 manual carrera is 25 years old and the issues are sorted, I'll probably get one. What a cracking car? R Gruppe style 996.
Porsche's stance of turning their backs on the IMS, RMS and other recent watercooled engine issues was / is shameful. I rank this up there with them introducing tiptronic transmissions and anything with 4 doors. I'm following the modern DFI engines with interest to see how they fare. For me, that means about 10 years of 911 used stock that I won't be buying anytime soon. Thats a shame. Mind you, I treated the 964 with equal disdain for 24 years before warming up to one. Good news is, like with the 964, is that time and development of more cost effective fixes occurs and when a 996.1 manual carrera is 25 years old and the issues are sorted, I'll probably get one. What a cracking car? R Gruppe style 996.
10-09-2013, 08:43 PM
#5286
Burning Brakes
Yes that's what happened to my fronts with the 4-2s. It's probably too late but you will need to skim the discs on changeout. My PFC 08 stops like a brick wall but squeal real bad as they get hotter. Maybe this will quiet down with km. car squirms a lot under braking. My, I did really like the feel of the ebc yellows. Pity about heat capability. Never gave any judder.
10-09-2013, 09:06 PM
#5287
Rennlist Member
On Brakes: (post slightly late but...)
As you all know I had issues with my brakes, still not flash really. Anyway, I wanted to chip in on the EBC's. I had yellow in front and red in back when I first got the car and did 2 drivers days like that. They eventually cooked and crumbled in the middle, but until that time and even during it(!) they felt very nice, progressive, good bite, no material transfer or juddering. I later found out that my driving style is too hard on brakes anyway and creates too much heat. I had terrible problems with the Pagid Blue 4-2 on my car as Dave knows, and now have gone to PFC08 all round which quite frankly apart from being able to handle the heat are terrible to drive with.
So, for the average driver or rather someone who doesn't heat the brakes too much, the EBC yellows are a terrific pad. Awesome cold bite, nice feel, NO squeaking, bit dusty though but easy to remove. Just in my case they didn't handle the heat - plus they're cheap... Stopped really well on the track too, even though they were stuffed! Actually in my estimation a far better pad than the pagid 4-2, which caused me no end of judder problems and almost had me flying off HD turn 1.
As you all know I had issues with my brakes, still not flash really. Anyway, I wanted to chip in on the EBC's. I had yellow in front and red in back when I first got the car and did 2 drivers days like that. They eventually cooked and crumbled in the middle, but until that time and even during it(!) they felt very nice, progressive, good bite, no material transfer or juddering. I later found out that my driving style is too hard on brakes anyway and creates too much heat. I had terrible problems with the Pagid Blue 4-2 on my car as Dave knows, and now have gone to PFC08 all round which quite frankly apart from being able to handle the heat are terrible to drive with.
So, for the average driver or rather someone who doesn't heat the brakes too much, the EBC yellows are a terrific pad. Awesome cold bite, nice feel, NO squeaking, bit dusty though but easy to remove. Just in my case they didn't handle the heat - plus they're cheap... Stopped really well on the track too, even though they were stuffed! Actually in my estimation a far better pad than the pagid 4-2, which caused me no end of judder problems and almost had me flying off HD turn 1.
Im amazed we are having so many issues with brakes.
I understand the 964 boys having brake issues on the track. The 964 system was a little underwhelming, lacked drilled rotors, 2 piston for C2, heavy car (C4 variant) etc etc. They certainly brought things up to date with the 993 and later models.
However the Boxster, 996 Turbo, 997 fraternity has me puzzled. These are modern braking systems (ABS5+) with larger discs (all 300+ at fronts), cast holes, four piston calipers and large pad surface areas.
From the driving I saw on the NITT none of us (apart from Paul whos car is running the oldest brake technology) should really be pushing the envelope here yet for the street stock version of our brakes assuming fluids have been upgraded and brakes are in good condition (not too thin, not too little pad thickness left etc). Of course I say that with the caveat that the 964 guys have some ventilation and weight issues to contend with that can cause fade.
Now, not being one to turn down the opportunity to upgrade something on my car, I'm still struggling to understand if we are really experiencing brake issues or whether its our driving style or something else we can attend to?
I feel a bit alone having stock brakes (I did upgrade the fluid for NITT from factory fill to SRF but to be honest felt no difference on the day), stock pads and no fade (that I can tell). I do have SS braided lines and have done for many years. To be perfectly honest as much as Id like to upgrade I right now struggle to see any need to do so given my current skill level.
Porsche run factory cars with factory pads and fluids at Mt Cotton, and all their track driving experiences that Im aware of (i.e. HD earlier this year, offshore events etc). I know the cars arent getting pushed as hard as our track days but it does warrant some thought.
I believe my lack of brake issues comes down to ventilation - but that aside Im starting to think perhaps its also down to braking technique. Some people use alot of brake and some dont.
Im just wondering if a number of us went back to factory compounds (sure keep the fluid upgrades and braided lines too if you have them) then would we really notice a huge difference? Maybe we are getting better and braking for less time but harder as we become more confident? It sure sounds like it would save alot of hassle at the track, also expense and noise on the street? Just putting it out there that's all.
P.S. Im looking at the cost of aftermarket race pads, extra wear on discs, compromise with material transfer, logistics of pad changes for the track days and all other variables and I'm thinking this is alot of money being spent here to stop without fade. It does make me think some other areas need to be explored at our level. I'm big on ventilation and believe if you remove your front backing plates and get some air to those discs you will eliminate any issues on stock pads/discs.
Another thought occurs. I'm not sure how many are using heel/toe? This may save alot of brake wear/heat as you are using the gears to slow the vehicle for part of the deceleration. Also if you are a heel/toe guy you will know from experience you leave the braking till late and you don't touch the pedal till all at once and you don't just massage it often either - you plug it - things cant be so delicate when you have your foot across both pedals at the end of a fast straight.
I know I sound like a bench racer and I guess due to location I am but I do like to think through the car and its systems and I do pick up alot of feedback from my own car and strive to continually improve it. I also hope to become a much faster driver on our local tracks as quickly as is reasonable through the application of learning and improving the machine as well as the driver.
By way of example I have an anti squat tilt kit (solid rear suspension mount kit) fitted to the 993 and its really designed for high HP cars. I was studying footage and photographs of the NITT and discovered from learning about the physics of the kit and some of the bum feedback from my driving where I was having issues putting power down as hard as I thought I should have been coming out of tight corners. CCS are currently modifying the kit to whee it should really have been in the first instance (i.e. less anti squat not more) for the type of power and driving we are talking. This is small stuff you dont pick up on from a computer! Just wish I had more time to trial these changes during the progress like you guys do. I think with the harder Wevo blue engine mounts, the reduced anti squat and the new ball joined toe arms it should make a noticeable difference to how the car handles under load next time I get it out on track. Hopefully that's a positive difference not a negative one!
10-09-2013, 09:11 PM
#5288
Rennlist Member
I think we've discussed this before but what part of the OEM pad and rotor combination is driving the experimentation? Are you not stopping quickly enough at all speed combinations or is there a particular performance parameter that you're looking to improve?
I don't (yet) haul around the track as quickly as many, but with SRF fluid I've yet to have squeal or fade on whatever pads are in the car.
I don't (yet) haul around the track as quickly as many, but with SRF fluid I've yet to have squeal or fade on whatever pads are in the car.
10-09-2013, 10:10 PM
#5289
Rennlist Member
I see Scott Mitchell won the Classic Trials on his madden outing.
I came a respectable third.
We won't mention where John McM came ????? (at least he had fun)
I came a respectable third.
We won't mention where John McM came ????? (at least he had fun)
10-09-2013, 10:39 PM
#5291
Rennlist Member
10-09-2013, 10:50 PM
#5292
Rennlist Member
Yes, although there are traps for not so young players.
1. You need to enter the practice round in the rough order of speed you think you can drive to. As the grid order is by fastest lap. I drove 1:35 in practice with the slower cars blocking my way (to be fair I was not pushing given I didn't know the track) and was well down the first grid order. They said I would only move up the order if I ran faster in subsequent sessions. You can't be consistent if you're aiming to move up the grid!
2. A first time driver in a MX5 was so slow we lapped her. If you caught her on a series of corners then that lap was slow and blew your consistency.
For the record I came 15th out of 20 with a best average deviation of 1.14 seconds. The winner had 0.46 seconds, Paul had 0.55.
As next time is HD, I'm going to aim for 1:27 in practice and set my time at 1:28.5.
1. You need to enter the practice round in the rough order of speed you think you can drive to. As the grid order is by fastest lap. I drove 1:35 in practice with the slower cars blocking my way (to be fair I was not pushing given I didn't know the track) and was well down the first grid order. They said I would only move up the order if I ran faster in subsequent sessions. You can't be consistent if you're aiming to move up the grid!
2. A first time driver in a MX5 was so slow we lapped her. If you caught her on a series of corners then that lap was slow and blew your consistency.
For the record I came 15th out of 20 with a best average deviation of 1.14 seconds. The winner had 0.46 seconds, Paul had 0.55.
As next time is HD, I'm going to aim for 1:27 in practice and set my time at 1:28.5.
10-09-2013, 10:57 PM
#5293
Rennlist Member
And if that doesn't work I'll see if I can play rabbit and draw the others into a sub minimum time lap. That way you get a special black and white flag, but not the chequered one 
Paul, I'm picking you are not naturally wired for consistency. I think it was you and a GT3 that blew the lap at the Porsche regularity trial that saw me sub 1:23 in the 996TT
Paul, I'm picking you are not naturally wired for consistency. I think it was you and a GT3 that blew the lap at the Porsche regularity trial that saw me sub 1:23 in the 996TT
10-09-2013, 11:22 PM
#5294
Rennlist Member
Hi John. I think I would be taking a similar tact as you and just using that as experience for traffic, new tracks and getting better lines. Sounds like a headache trying to win!