Any Rennlisters from New Zealand?
10-04-2013 | 09:42 PM
#5192
Drifting
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 2,373
Likes: 0
From: Auckland, New Zealand
Yes the 986 passed Contis PPI and is now gone to a new very excited first time Porsche owner. Was pretty sad to see it go after 30,000kms all over NZ over the last almost 2 years. The all over leather, Boze amp and speaker system, aluminium trim bits and pieces made it a very nice car to cruise in. I can see how some people collect these machines and can't bear to ever part with them. I feel it too. Not enough garage space and having purchased a similar platform, more modern with more power and I'm happy. Now that the spring is here and were seeing some decent warm sunny weather being able to hit the hood down switch at any time is pretty sweet. Had to pull over, jump out and manually check/fold the plastic rear window on the 986.
I was pretty tempted by the many 987 spiders for sale in the UK. Would be amazing on the track but the hassle of putting the "umbrella" roof up and down would be a drag. Especially when we get 4 seasons in a day.
Please come to the twilight!
I was pretty tempted by the many 987 spiders for sale in the UK. Would be amazing on the track but the hassle of putting the "umbrella" roof up and down would be a drag. Especially when we get 4 seasons in a day.
Please come to the twilight!
10-04-2013 | 09:55 PM
#5194
Drifting
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 2,373
Likes: 0
From: Auckland, New Zealand
....My other concern with changing pad compound on one axle is that you are shifting the brake bias to that axle. i.e, you put in Pagid yellow on front discs leave rears OEM you are now working against the factory PV settings (proportional valve). i.e. if the factory determined that the front rotors should be doing 1.4x the retardation of the rears and you put Pagid yellow 29s up front then you are now changing the dynamics of the car under brakes (i.e. 1.55x braking now by the front rotors).
There must be a simple brake ventilation kit you can buy for a Boxster S. If you cant bear the squeal from the yellows sell them to Pete M and spend some small money on a brake ventilation kit and stick with the much cheaper factory pads. Im pretty sure once you get some decent ventilation to those rotors you will get 3x the track like out off the front pads and the rears will likely be good 1.3x longer than the fronts....
There must be a simple brake ventilation kit you can buy for a Boxster S. If you cant bear the squeal from the yellows sell them to Pete M and spend some small money on a brake ventilation kit and stick with the much cheaper factory pads. Im pretty sure once you get some decent ventilation to those rotors you will get 3x the track like out off the front pads and the rears will likely be good 1.3x longer than the fronts....
My bad... Double checked and Peter and I are running Pagid Oranges (not yellow) and we have them on all 4 wheels. I agree mixing pad types front and rear would not be a good idea, wouldn't dream of doing that.
I can see I can learn a lot with the RL forums so will do some more research in the Boxster area and brakes and cooling. Here's someone who knows lots more than I talking about his experience with different Pagid pads on his 911...
The Orange pads are the most agressive of Pagids "Sport" RS4 compounds. They are easy on rotors and wear pretty well until they are overheated. When they overheat, they imbed brake pad material into the rotor, making it feel like it is badly warped.
The yellow RS19 compound is a legitimate Racing pad with a much higher maximum temperature and slightly better friction coefficient across the temperature range compared to the orange. Yellows are slightly harder on rotors than the orange, but rotor life is still very good for a race pad. In this year's Rolex 24, we used RS19s and need to change all the pads, but the rotors lasted the whole race easily. This compound comes stock on the GT3 Street car.
The Black RS14 compound is the higher friction racing pad. The friction and maximum temperature are significantly higher than yellows. Pad and rotor life are expectedly decreased.
Oranges are typically fine for DE, but when you really start to use the brakes, you'll need to go to the racing compounds. Yellows feel virtually identical to the Orange, but won't "melt" into the rotor. People with heavy cars tend to prefer Blacks because of the higher friction.
The yellow RS19 compound is a legitimate Racing pad with a much higher maximum temperature and slightly better friction coefficient across the temperature range compared to the orange. Yellows are slightly harder on rotors than the orange, but rotor life is still very good for a race pad. In this year's Rolex 24, we used RS19s and need to change all the pads, but the rotors lasted the whole race easily. This compound comes stock on the GT3 Street car.
The Black RS14 compound is the higher friction racing pad. The friction and maximum temperature are significantly higher than yellows. Pad and rotor life are expectedly decreased.
Oranges are typically fine for DE, but when you really start to use the brakes, you'll need to go to the racing compounds. Yellows feel virtually identical to the Orange, but won't "melt" into the rotor. People with heavy cars tend to prefer Blacks because of the higher friction.
10-04-2013 | 11:27 PM
#5197
Rennlist Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 13,315
Likes: 651
From: Auckland, New Zealand.
Great fun. The minimum is 1:29. Paul is running 1:28.5! I just ran 1:29.74. Interesting seeing our cars against other makes. Our brakes are Definitely superior. Secret to this is run strong and get a fast lap to move up the grid. Less traffic.
10-05-2013 | 02:08 AM
#5199
Rennlist Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 13,315
Likes: 651
From: Auckland, New Zealand.
Well, a great day at the TACCOC regularity trial. Dare I say, more fun than the Playdays. The reason being that we lined up on the grid in order of fastest lap and started off in quick succession. The result was well spaced close racing. I'll put the video on YouTube later of my hunting an old BMW.
10-05-2013 | 03:07 AM
#5200
Pro
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 679
Likes: 0
It's worth pointing out that the Z221 is E-marked whereas the Z214 is not, so it's certainly not road legal in the EU.
You could possibly argue that the Z214 fits the requirement you quoted, but I'd be surprised if you'd get them past the local VTNZ man. I'm sure Steve's well aware of the rules and if he claims they aren't road legal locally, I'd go with that.
Edit: from a quick look around (maybe Paul can confirm), the Z214s carry "NOT FOR HIGHWAY USE" on the sidewall, which makes it clear that they're not road legal in NZ:
d) a tyre that is not compatible with the vehicle to which it is fitted, eg a tyre is marked with any of the following:
i. ‘NOT FOR HIGHWAY USE’
ii. ‘NHS’ (Not for Highway Service)
iii. ‘FOR TRAILER USE ONLY’
iv. ‘ADV’ (Agricultural Drawn Vehicle)
v. ‘RACING PURPOSES ONLY’.
Last edited by mjg; 10-05-2013 at 05:29 AM.
10-05-2013 | 06:55 PM
#5202
Drifting
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 2,373
Likes: 0
From: Auckland, New Zealand
I'm reading a few US forums on RL to find out what they typically do over there in terms of 987 upgrades for track days. Quite interesting and lots of useful information also a few conflicting recommendations. I'm also assuming their tracks may be a lot different to what we're mostly running, ie HD.
They talk a lot about doing DE days. Bit embarrassed to ask but are they meaning Driver Education days? Seems a widely used acronym.
Thanks from a novice.
They talk a lot about doing DE days. Bit embarrassed to ask but are they meaning Driver Education days? Seems a widely used acronym.
Thanks from a novice.
10-05-2013 | 07:18 PM
#5203
Rennlist Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 14,140
Likes: 14
From: New Zealand
Yip DE = driver education but is broadly used to describe track days of the fashion we have. Their tracks are often a bit longer than ours with no elevation and large run offs. There is a wealth of info on there but you do have to do your own homework. Pistonheads in UK is also good.
There is also a racing/track day board on RL which is good. Assuming upgraded fluid the keeping disc surface cooler will give longer pad life. Pad friction type will also give longer usable life and transfer less heat to system/fluid. Comes at expense of rotors and squeal. If you can keep your front rotors cool enough you should be fine with factory pads although they will wear much quicker than on the road of course. That said a set of OEM front pads for your car is probably $300 NZD from FDM so no big deal. Good race pads will run twice that.
There is also a racing/track day board on RL which is good. Assuming upgraded fluid the keeping disc surface cooler will give longer pad life. Pad friction type will also give longer usable life and transfer less heat to system/fluid. Comes at expense of rotors and squeal. If you can keep your front rotors cool enough you should be fine with factory pads although they will wear much quicker than on the road of course. That said a set of OEM front pads for your car is probably $300 NZD from FDM so no big deal. Good race pads will run twice that.
10-05-2013 | 07:27 PM
#5204
Rennlist Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 14,140
Likes: 14
From: New Zealand
Still working out how to edit the footage in iMovie. In the meantime this is a very good clip to get a perspective on the track http://youtu.be/WgAO6j1Hamg
What is a fair "RSG" 911 track time there now? IIRC used to be something around 1.12...
10-05-2013 | 08:34 PM
#5205
Rennlist Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 13,315
Likes: 651
From: Auckland, New Zealand.
Thanks John. Very interesting. I just downloaded the track map and it does seem like alot of money spent for a few extra bends. I understand the back straight is now 30kmph slower than before. Im guess now in the 964 your Vmax before the braking zone there should now be circa 180kmph if you hook up the entry apex well and keep on the gas till the 80m run out line? What is a fair "RSG" 911 track time there now? IIRC used to be something around 1.12...
Not sure what a fair RSG 911 time would be now. Searching the Net gives little in the way of results for the HD/new Pukekohe differential. I was short of 180km/hr on the back straight. More like 170+. The other participants braked a lot earlier than me so I had a choice of diving in to the corner or being sensible. I chose the latter given it was the first time with the group. They didn't return the favour when I gave some wayward drivers room. Robbers' dogs!
I know their game now so I'll be assertive, get out quickly and turn a 1:27 at HD in the Practice round (absolute min within the rules), which should put Paul, Scott and me at the front of the grid. Paul buttons off on the straight so I'll get a good tow through the twisties. Really looking forward to the series runs in the bigger meets e.g. Festival of speed.