Diesel Cayenne and VW emission issue
12-07-2017, 12:33 PM
#4847
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[QUOTE=alterniTECH;14654013]How long have you owned a Hyundai, and how often did you drive that Hyundai? And what model Hyundai has a diesel?[/QUOTE
2014- 55,000 and she looks showroom new. Again happy for those that think this fix is almost a “ push “.
12-07-2017, 12:36 PM
#4848
Alright - picked my '14 back up last night.
Best way I can describe the initial driving impression (story time):
When I bought my '14, but before I took delivery, I took a dealer demo 2016 for a drive. Loved it. When my '14 arrived at the dealer (it was a lease termination from CA so it took them a few weeks to actually get the vehicle), before they could PDI it, etc. I took it for a ride. It had been "reset" by the dealer (either mine or the dealer who took the lease in) because everything had been reset... radio presets, etc. It felt less responsive than the '16, not the same immediate torque. I think I'd posted here in a thread around that time where there was discussion around the 2015-2016 CD's feeling "peppier" than the 2013-2014's, agreeing with that sentiment. The difference 2016-2014 felt the same as Sport mode to non-sport mode. Just more responsive in the 16.
Fast forward a few weeks. I'd gotten used to the 14 and it felt good. I took it in for service, was given a 16 CD loaner. I was curious to see if that "difference" was still there - and it wasn't. Drove exactly the same as mine. I chalked it up to "old/bad/CA-grade" diesel fuel being run in cold Chicago air the first time I'd driven it.
So... yesterday, the first initial drive, reminded me of the first drive I'd taken in my 14. Not quite as responsive. Note I'd also spent the last 2 days driving a V6 gasser... which, on initial throttle tip in, is MUCH more responsive than my CD was even before the fix. No turbo lag, etc. So there was some "readjusting" needed in my brain there. Coolant temp when I got in it from the dealer was at 102, oil temp at 60, so it had some heat in it. No noticeable difference in noise. I was expecting a lot of diesel clatter based on all the feedback about "additional noise" and it sounded 100% normal to me. Must not've been cold enough.
As I continued driving (I put 65 miles on it last night), it felt like things started to "come around". Response slowly started to come back, I started realizing I wasn't "noticing" any differences anymore. By the time I'd gotten back home, I'd argue the vehicle felt, pretty much exactly the same. The trans felt 100% normal the entire drive. I did notice what felt like an occasional misfire or stumble - maybe 3-4x over the 65 mile trip.
This morning, driving it to work (another 60 miles). Cold start BUT my garage has heat. Was ~55 degrees in the garage. Water temp was 80F, oil was 55. 18 degrees outside air. No noticeable difference in engine noise or diesel clatter... again 100% normal sounding.
I did notice this time that the shifting is different. For sure when cold it holds gears a little longer. The biggest change: one thing I've always noticed is how, when the trans would shift to 3rd, it seems like (by design) the torque converter would not lock at first, allowing a sensation of "slip" for a few seconds, then the converter locks up, RPMs drop a bit, vehicle pulls a little harder, then it'd change to 4th.
Seems like they leave the converter unlocked now until the car warms up. More revs, more "slip" from the driveline. So I can see how this would feel "less responsive". I drove from my neighborhood ~5 miles to the local Dunkin Donuts drive-through. Upon exiting the drive-thru, coolant temp was 200F. Trans was back to shifting 100% normal IMO.
The entire drive in to work today, once I left DD and the vehicle was warmed up, felt 100% normal. Fuel economy seems unchanged, though I'll watch it over the next few tanks and see what happens. The dealer topped off the fuel, and the range said "501 miles" when I picked it up. I've since put 130+ miles on it, and the range says "580 miles" so clearly, things were reset and it's re-learning. I drive 2500+ miles a month so it won't be long for me to rack up some miles on the fix. At this point I suspect that by next month the vehicle will likely feel the same (once warmed up) as it had pre-fix. It already feels fine to me.
At work I deliberately parked aimed at an exterior wall (open-air parking garage) so the truck should get a decent cold soak. Today's high is 22F so tonight I expect a proper cold start. So far I have not heard anything really for increased noise.
Best way I can describe the initial driving impression (story time):
When I bought my '14, but before I took delivery, I took a dealer demo 2016 for a drive. Loved it. When my '14 arrived at the dealer (it was a lease termination from CA so it took them a few weeks to actually get the vehicle), before they could PDI it, etc. I took it for a ride. It had been "reset" by the dealer (either mine or the dealer who took the lease in) because everything had been reset... radio presets, etc. It felt less responsive than the '16, not the same immediate torque. I think I'd posted here in a thread around that time where there was discussion around the 2015-2016 CD's feeling "peppier" than the 2013-2014's, agreeing with that sentiment. The difference 2016-2014 felt the same as Sport mode to non-sport mode. Just more responsive in the 16.
Fast forward a few weeks. I'd gotten used to the 14 and it felt good. I took it in for service, was given a 16 CD loaner. I was curious to see if that "difference" was still there - and it wasn't. Drove exactly the same as mine. I chalked it up to "old/bad/CA-grade" diesel fuel being run in cold Chicago air the first time I'd driven it.
So... yesterday, the first initial drive, reminded me of the first drive I'd taken in my 14. Not quite as responsive. Note I'd also spent the last 2 days driving a V6 gasser... which, on initial throttle tip in, is MUCH more responsive than my CD was even before the fix. No turbo lag, etc. So there was some "readjusting" needed in my brain there. Coolant temp when I got in it from the dealer was at 102, oil temp at 60, so it had some heat in it. No noticeable difference in noise. I was expecting a lot of diesel clatter based on all the feedback about "additional noise" and it sounded 100% normal to me. Must not've been cold enough.
As I continued driving (I put 65 miles on it last night), it felt like things started to "come around". Response slowly started to come back, I started realizing I wasn't "noticing" any differences anymore. By the time I'd gotten back home, I'd argue the vehicle felt, pretty much exactly the same. The trans felt 100% normal the entire drive. I did notice what felt like an occasional misfire or stumble - maybe 3-4x over the 65 mile trip.
This morning, driving it to work (another 60 miles). Cold start BUT my garage has heat. Was ~55 degrees in the garage. Water temp was 80F, oil was 55. 18 degrees outside air. No noticeable difference in engine noise or diesel clatter... again 100% normal sounding.
I did notice this time that the shifting is different. For sure when cold it holds gears a little longer. The biggest change: one thing I've always noticed is how, when the trans would shift to 3rd, it seems like (by design) the torque converter would not lock at first, allowing a sensation of "slip" for a few seconds, then the converter locks up, RPMs drop a bit, vehicle pulls a little harder, then it'd change to 4th.
Seems like they leave the converter unlocked now until the car warms up. More revs, more "slip" from the driveline. So I can see how this would feel "less responsive". I drove from my neighborhood ~5 miles to the local Dunkin Donuts drive-through. Upon exiting the drive-thru, coolant temp was 200F. Trans was back to shifting 100% normal IMO.
The entire drive in to work today, once I left DD and the vehicle was warmed up, felt 100% normal. Fuel economy seems unchanged, though I'll watch it over the next few tanks and see what happens. The dealer topped off the fuel, and the range said "501 miles" when I picked it up. I've since put 130+ miles on it, and the range says "580 miles" so clearly, things were reset and it's re-learning. I drive 2500+ miles a month so it won't be long for me to rack up some miles on the fix. At this point I suspect that by next month the vehicle will likely feel the same (once warmed up) as it had pre-fix. It already feels fine to me.
At work I deliberately parked aimed at an exterior wall (open-air parking garage) so the truck should get a decent cold soak. Today's high is 22F so tonight I expect a proper cold start. So far I have not heard anything really for increased noise.
12-07-2017, 12:41 PM
#4849
Also - small side note: upon leaving the dealer, the wife and I drove to another dealer ~25-ish miles away, as they had a sort of "unveiling event" for the Panamera Sportback. We wanted to check it out.
Got to talking to one of the sales guys. He's got a bunch of CD's in stock - 18 "demos" or "service loaners" (so their warranty cards were punched) and 10 brand-new 2016s. He'd already sold 7 of the 10 new ones. He had 3 left. He pulled one around for me that was almost identical to mine (Carmine Red) but with the options I'd wished mine had (panoramic roof, black interior). I love my 14 but also love the idea of a brand new one (I have a bad habit, I know)....
He said they were discounted 15% off MSRP and were not allowed by Porsche to discount any further. So zero negotiation. MSRP - 15% + TTL and there you go.
I was hoping for a deeper discount. Loved the one they had - sticker was ~$81k. So the sale price was $69k and change. I bet they'll sell.... but being it's almost 2 years old already, I'd like to see a deeper break. If they'd told me they could get closer to $60k + TTL, I'd heavily consider it.
He said they haven't worked out pricing for any of their 2016 demo's yet, but "they'll be a little cheaper, depending on their mileage". Doesn't leave me hopeful.... looks like I'll probably stick with my '14 for at least another year.
Got to talking to one of the sales guys. He's got a bunch of CD's in stock - 18 "demos" or "service loaners" (so their warranty cards were punched) and 10 brand-new 2016s. He'd already sold 7 of the 10 new ones. He had 3 left. He pulled one around for me that was almost identical to mine (Carmine Red) but with the options I'd wished mine had (panoramic roof, black interior). I love my 14 but also love the idea of a brand new one (I have a bad habit, I know)....
He said they were discounted 15% off MSRP and were not allowed by Porsche to discount any further. So zero negotiation. MSRP - 15% + TTL and there you go.
I was hoping for a deeper discount. Loved the one they had - sticker was ~$81k. So the sale price was $69k and change. I bet they'll sell.... but being it's almost 2 years old already, I'd like to see a deeper break. If they'd told me they could get closer to $60k + TTL, I'd heavily consider it.
He said they haven't worked out pricing for any of their 2016 demo's yet, but "they'll be a little cheaper, depending on their mileage". Doesn't leave me hopeful.... looks like I'll probably stick with my '14 for at least another year.
12-07-2017, 03:06 PM
#4850
Rennlist Member
Since some have already reported dealers selling at 20% off MSRP, I'm guessing the "not allowed by Porsche" is a load of crap, typical of a used car salesman.
I've also seen some listed at ~7% off MSRP only. That seems pretty optimistic, given it's a 2 year old car now with 2 year old used car values. And, especially with the used cars, I'm not sure how much say PCNA has over pricing... just how much the dealers are going to get for sitting on them for all this time.
I've also seen some listed at ~7% off MSRP only. That seems pretty optimistic, given it's a 2 year old car now with 2 year old used car values. And, especially with the used cars, I'm not sure how much say PCNA has over pricing... just how much the dealers are going to get for sitting on them for all this time.
12-07-2017, 03:21 PM
#4851
Rennlist Member
^^^ It is dealer's inventory. So, I believe they are actually owned by the dealers, no? The dealers have already been compensated for the mess. I am not sure if part of the compensation includes any stipulation about how much below MSRP they are allowed to sell. IMHO, what skiahh said, dealer is just talking negotiations. I remember reading an article in Jalopnic about how much VW and Audi are discounting (Audi Q7 at 20%)
12-07-2017, 03:28 PM
#4852
Not arguing for (or against) what the dealer said... just reporting what he told me.
BUT
Wasn't it also stated here that 2015's were discounted at 20%, and 2016's at 15%? I know I read that somewhere... was either this thread or over on TDIClub. My buddy w/the Audi dealer was selling his 2015 Q7 TDI's at 20% off MSRP - also, no further negotiating or discount.
On one hand, the dealers should be allowed to sell them for whatever they want. But on the other, I can see Porsche wanting to have some form of price controls, to keep from whoring out their products.
Again - not for/against, don't really care. The dealer would have to come down another ~$10k to get me to think about it... and that's "think" not necessarily "do" I got my 14 for a song IMO and from what I've seen, used ones haven't lost much value. In the end I think I'd have a hard time convincing myself to pick up another $20k in debt just because I wanted a black interior.
Maybe in another year or two when I've got over 100k miles on mine, I'll consider trading in. At least "expiring warranty" is something I can justify in my head.
BUT
Wasn't it also stated here that 2015's were discounted at 20%, and 2016's at 15%? I know I read that somewhere... was either this thread or over on TDIClub. My buddy w/the Audi dealer was selling his 2015 Q7 TDI's at 20% off MSRP - also, no further negotiating or discount.
On one hand, the dealers should be allowed to sell them for whatever they want. But on the other, I can see Porsche wanting to have some form of price controls, to keep from whoring out their products.
Again - not for/against, don't really care. The dealer would have to come down another ~$10k to get me to think about it... and that's "think" not necessarily "do"
I got my 14 for a song IMO and from what I've seen, used ones haven't lost much value. In the end I think I'd have a hard time convincing myself to pick up another $20k in debt just because I wanted a black interior.Maybe in another year or two when I've got over 100k miles on mine, I'll consider trading in. At least "expiring warranty" is something I can justify in my head.
12-07-2017, 04:42 PM
#4853
Rennlist Member
^^^ It is dealer's inventory. So, I believe they are actually owned by the dealers, no? The dealers have already been compensated for the mess. I am not sure if part of the compensation includes any stipulation about how much below MSRP they are allowed to sell. IMHO, what skiahh said, dealer is just talking negotiations. I remember reading an article in Jalopnic about how much VW and Audi are discounting (Audi Q7 at 20%)
I'm considering trading the Boxster S for another CD (practicality purposes... as much as anything Porsche can be considered practical), so have been looking around quite a bit. The dealer I mentioned at 7% off MSRP tried to tell me they've been sitting on them for all this time and blah blah. When I mentioned that I'd been following this pretty closely and that I knew the dealers got their settlement before owners did, he said, "Oh, so you want some of the dealer settlement money?" When I countered that he was asking for 10 grand from my wallet beyond the market value of the vehicle to pad their bottom line, because as it sits, the market value for the vehicle is about 10K less than they are asking, he got pretty quiet. I gave him the specs of my BS... we'll see what kind of stupidity they come back with.
I suspect I won't be making a trade with them; the only questions is if the trade value will be as stupidly low as the CD price is high. Any bets?
12-07-2017, 04:54 PM
#4854
And if I read the settlement right, each dealer got (on average) $1.85 Million.
I'm considering trading the Boxster S for another CD (practicality purposes... as much as anything Porsche can be considered practical), so have been looking around quite a bit. The dealer I mentioned at 7% off MSRP tried to tell me they've been sitting on them for all this time and blah blah. When I mentioned that I'd been following this pretty closely and that I knew the dealers got their settlement before owners did, he said, "Oh, so you want some of the dealer settlement money?" When I countered that he was asking for 10 grand from my wallet beyond the market value of the vehicle to pad their bottom line, because as it sits, the market value for the vehicle is about 10K less than they are asking, he got pretty quiet. I gave him the specs of my BS... we'll see what kind of stupidity they come back with.
I suspect I won't be making a trade with them; the only questions is if the trade value will be as stupidly low as the CD price is high. Any bets?
I'm considering trading the Boxster S for another CD (practicality purposes... as much as anything Porsche can be considered practical), so have been looking around quite a bit. The dealer I mentioned at 7% off MSRP tried to tell me they've been sitting on them for all this time and blah blah. When I mentioned that I'd been following this pretty closely and that I knew the dealers got their settlement before owners did, he said, "Oh, so you want some of the dealer settlement money?" When I countered that he was asking for 10 grand from my wallet beyond the market value of the vehicle to pad their bottom line, because as it sits, the market value for the vehicle is about 10K less than they are asking, he got pretty quiet. I gave him the specs of my BS... we'll see what kind of stupidity they come back with.
I suspect I won't be making a trade with them; the only questions is if the trade value will be as stupidly low as the CD price is high. Any bets?
I usually have a buddy of mine get me Mannheim auction values for my trade (and the car I'm buying, if I'm buying used).
New 2-year-old ANYTHING offered at a 15% discount off MSRP just doesn't seem like enough to me. Punched warranty or not. It's still a 2-year-old vehicle.
12-07-2017, 06:18 PM
#4855
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Glad to hear your torque and HP are the same.Bringing back mine again next week for a round of BS. Hey, I’ve come to the conclusion that the Germans won this battle against little me. As they say, sh*t or get off the pot so after this Winter will most likely trade the beast in. My vehicle is no way close to driving like it did before the fix.
You're in the minority on your comments, but it would be injust to say your observations are wrong because of that. And you're not the only one on here who has had an issue (that one member with the surging that comes to mind). So there is something causing a variance in how this is shaking out. Wonder what it is... Dealer error on install? Bad replacement cat? Issue with tune (not unheard of).
12-07-2017, 06:34 PM
#4856
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Alright - picked my '14 back up last night.
Best way I can describe the initial driving impression (story time):
When I bought my '14, but before I took delivery, I took a dealer demo 2016 for a drive. Loved it. When my '14 arrived at the dealer (it was a lease termination from CA so it took them a few weeks to actually get the vehicle), before they could PDI it, etc. I took it for a ride. It had been "reset" by the dealer (either mine or the dealer who took the lease in) because everything had been reset... radio presets, etc. It felt less responsive than the '16, not the same immediate torque. I think I'd posted here in a thread around that time where there was discussion around the 2015-2016 CD's feeling "peppier" than the 2013-2014's, agreeing with that sentiment. The difference 2016-2014 felt the same as Sport mode to non-sport mode. Just more responsive in the 16.
Fast forward a few weeks. I'd gotten used to the 14 and it felt good. I took it in for service, was given a 16 CD loaner. I was curious to see if that "difference" was still there - and it wasn't. Drove exactly the same as mine. I chalked it up to "old/bad/CA-grade" diesel fuel being run in cold Chicago air the first time I'd driven it.
So... yesterday, the first initial drive, reminded me of the first drive I'd taken in my 14. Not quite as responsive. Note I'd also spent the last 2 days driving a V6 gasser... which, on initial throttle tip in, is MUCH more responsive than my CD was even before the fix. No turbo lag, etc. So there was some "readjusting" needed in my brain there. Coolant temp when I got in it from the dealer was at 102, oil temp at 60, so it had some heat in it. No noticeable difference in noise. I was expecting a lot of diesel clatter based on all the feedback about "additional noise" and it sounded 100% normal to me. Must not've been cold enough.
As I continued driving (I put 65 miles on it last night), it felt like things started to "come around". Response slowly started to come back, I started realizing I wasn't "noticing" any differences anymore. By the time I'd gotten back home, I'd argue the vehicle felt, pretty much exactly the same. The trans felt 100% normal the entire drive. I did notice what felt like an occasional misfire or stumble - maybe 3-4x over the 65 mile trip.
This morning, driving it to work (another 60 miles). Cold start BUT my garage has heat. Was ~55 degrees in the garage. Water temp was 80F, oil was 55. 18 degrees outside air. No noticeable difference in engine noise or diesel clatter... again 100% normal sounding.
I did notice this time that the shifting is different. For sure when cold it holds gears a little longer. The biggest change: one thing I've always noticed is how, when the trans would shift to 3rd, it seems like (by design) the torque converter would not lock at first, allowing a sensation of "slip" for a few seconds, then the converter locks up, RPMs drop a bit, vehicle pulls a little harder, then it'd change to 4th.
Seems like they leave the converter unlocked now until the car warms up. More revs, more "slip" from the driveline. So I can see how this would feel "less responsive". I drove from my neighborhood ~5 miles to the local Dunkin Donuts drive-through. Upon exiting the drive-thru, coolant temp was 200F. Trans was back to shifting 100% normal IMO.
The entire drive in to work today, once I left DD and the vehicle was warmed up, felt 100% normal. Fuel economy seems unchanged, though I'll watch it over the next few tanks and see what happens. The dealer topped off the fuel, and the range said "501 miles" when I picked it up. I've since put 130+ miles on it, and the range says "580 miles" so clearly, things were reset and it's re-learning. I drive 2500+ miles a month so it won't be long for me to rack up some miles on the fix. At this point I suspect that by next month the vehicle will likely feel the same (once warmed up) as it had pre-fix. It already feels fine to me.
At work I deliberately parked aimed at an exterior wall (open-air parking garage) so the truck should get a decent cold soak. Today's high is 22F so tonight I expect a proper cold start. So far I have not heard anything really for increased noise.
Best way I can describe the initial driving impression (story time):
When I bought my '14, but before I took delivery, I took a dealer demo 2016 for a drive. Loved it. When my '14 arrived at the dealer (it was a lease termination from CA so it took them a few weeks to actually get the vehicle), before they could PDI it, etc. I took it for a ride. It had been "reset" by the dealer (either mine or the dealer who took the lease in) because everything had been reset... radio presets, etc. It felt less responsive than the '16, not the same immediate torque. I think I'd posted here in a thread around that time where there was discussion around the 2015-2016 CD's feeling "peppier" than the 2013-2014's, agreeing with that sentiment. The difference 2016-2014 felt the same as Sport mode to non-sport mode. Just more responsive in the 16.
Fast forward a few weeks. I'd gotten used to the 14 and it felt good. I took it in for service, was given a 16 CD loaner. I was curious to see if that "difference" was still there - and it wasn't. Drove exactly the same as mine. I chalked it up to "old/bad/CA-grade" diesel fuel being run in cold Chicago air the first time I'd driven it.
So... yesterday, the first initial drive, reminded me of the first drive I'd taken in my 14. Not quite as responsive. Note I'd also spent the last 2 days driving a V6 gasser... which, on initial throttle tip in, is MUCH more responsive than my CD was even before the fix. No turbo lag, etc. So there was some "readjusting" needed in my brain there. Coolant temp when I got in it from the dealer was at 102, oil temp at 60, so it had some heat in it. No noticeable difference in noise. I was expecting a lot of diesel clatter based on all the feedback about "additional noise" and it sounded 100% normal to me. Must not've been cold enough.
As I continued driving (I put 65 miles on it last night), it felt like things started to "come around". Response slowly started to come back, I started realizing I wasn't "noticing" any differences anymore. By the time I'd gotten back home, I'd argue the vehicle felt, pretty much exactly the same. The trans felt 100% normal the entire drive. I did notice what felt like an occasional misfire or stumble - maybe 3-4x over the 65 mile trip.
This morning, driving it to work (another 60 miles). Cold start BUT my garage has heat. Was ~55 degrees in the garage. Water temp was 80F, oil was 55. 18 degrees outside air. No noticeable difference in engine noise or diesel clatter... again 100% normal sounding.
I did notice this time that the shifting is different. For sure when cold it holds gears a little longer. The biggest change: one thing I've always noticed is how, when the trans would shift to 3rd, it seems like (by design) the torque converter would not lock at first, allowing a sensation of "slip" for a few seconds, then the converter locks up, RPMs drop a bit, vehicle pulls a little harder, then it'd change to 4th.
Seems like they leave the converter unlocked now until the car warms up. More revs, more "slip" from the driveline. So I can see how this would feel "less responsive". I drove from my neighborhood ~5 miles to the local Dunkin Donuts drive-through. Upon exiting the drive-thru, coolant temp was 200F. Trans was back to shifting 100% normal IMO.
The entire drive in to work today, once I left DD and the vehicle was warmed up, felt 100% normal. Fuel economy seems unchanged, though I'll watch it over the next few tanks and see what happens. The dealer topped off the fuel, and the range said "501 miles" when I picked it up. I've since put 130+ miles on it, and the range says "580 miles" so clearly, things were reset and it's re-learning. I drive 2500+ miles a month so it won't be long for me to rack up some miles on the fix. At this point I suspect that by next month the vehicle will likely feel the same (once warmed up) as it had pre-fix. It already feels fine to me.
At work I deliberately parked aimed at an exterior wall (open-air parking garage) so the truck should get a decent cold soak. Today's high is 22F so tonight I expect a proper cold start. So far I have not heard anything really for increased noise.
12-07-2017, 06:53 PM
#4857
I'll note that every CD I've driven (I've had 2 CD loaners in my history, plus my own) have been slow to lockup in 3rd. When I first drove mine I thought something might be wrong but when the other two loaners did it. With a trailer connected it seems to hold off on 3rd lockup longer.
The gas V6 loaners I've had also do it - though it's not as prominent. I think usually because on the CD, when lockup happens, you get a little surge forward thanks to the available torque. The gasser doesn't do anything lol.
I'll also reiterate - the difference in punchiness between the 14 and 16 was only observed when my 14 was new to me. Subsequent back to back comparisons, after owning my 14 a while, have not shown ANY differences in punchiness between the them.
12-07-2017, 10:06 PM
#4859
Pro
So pulled the trigger today (out of state for me)stop sale 16 cd has a sticker of $80k got it for $67, has 30 miles on it, traded in my 14 CD which had a sticker $79 traded it in for $27k my car has 123xxx miles on her plus $11 k in settlement $$$. needless to say Happy to upgrade to $80 k ride for only $30 k out of pocket
Comes 6 yr /100k certified warranty from today’s date. I drive 40k per year so the time is irrelevant to me
Comes 6 yr /100k certified warranty from today’s date. I drive 40k per year so the time is irrelevant to me
Just happy to have new Cd w a odometer that’s reads nearly zero to enjoy for next 5 yrs then will have to figure what comes next for a daily driver
Also speaking w my local gm each dealer received specific concession for each CD, depending on msrp and if it was a loaner or demo
in my shopping Northeast dealers seemed to be most appealing when it came to discounts , Midwest not so much
Also speaking w my local gm each dealer received specific concession for each CD, depending on msrp and if it was a loaner or demo
in my shopping Northeast dealers seemed to be most appealing when it came to discounts , Midwest not so much
12-07-2017, 10:13 PM
#4860
So pulled the trigger today on stop sale 16 cd has a sticker of $80k got it for $67, has 30 miles on it, traded in my 14 CD which had a sticker $79 traded it in for $27k my car has 123xxx miles on her plus $11 k in settlement $$$. needless to say Happy to upgrade to $80 k ride for only $30 k out of pocket
So speaking w my local gm each dealer received specific concession for each CD, depending on msrp and if it was a loaner or demo
in my shopping Northeast dealers seemed to be most appealing when it came to discounts , Midwest not so much
So speaking w my local gm each dealer received specific concession for each CD, depending on msrp and if it was a loaner or demo
in my shopping Northeast dealers seemed to be most appealing when it came to discounts , Midwest not so much
Only 27 on trade for yours tho huh? Just watching values, I put 30k/yr on mine, am at 65k now.... so I'll be at 120k pretty soon! Weighing exactly when's the right time to pull the trigger on a new one (now-ish) or just ride it out another year or two then find a low-mile 16 somewhere.