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No but I have already placed an order to have them made as I already have the pccm+ backup camera harnesses manufactured and being shipped to me, having helped figure it all out.
Nice! Put me on the interest list for that.
Im trying to figure out if I have a bad stock bose amp or if there is a coding issue preventing the PCCM+ from seeing the stock AMP. If its the former, I think RCA out to a standard amp will be the way to go.
Does anyone know offhand if the stock bose amp is something that has to get coded to the car / canbus?
SteveW can you explain what you did to match the LED color and intensity for both license plate lights with the backup camera you used? Is the LED in the combination camera/light replaceable? I'm reluctant to drill a hole in my bumper and like you camera choice. Thanks
Fritz skipped a step in his post--Open TSLauncher, hit the boxes on the right side, select settings (which is one of the icons in the above picture) and you'll see under System, time zone. I don't remember what mine was set to but I changed it to Chicago (i.e., Central Time) where I am, and for the first time the synchronization of time to GPS displays the correct time.
SteveW can you explain what you did to match the LED color and intensity for both license plate lights with the backup camera you used? Is the LED in the combination camera/light replaceable? I'm reluctant to drill a hole in my bumper and like you camera choice. Thanks
The LED that comes in those combination camera/light is not separately replaceable. It's siliconed sealed under a cover. The LED light that comes out of the combo is a standard cool white light that you see with a lot of LED bulbs, I'm guessing about 5000K+ color temp. It would be easier for you to replace the incandescent 5W bulb in the other license light with a cool white LED bulb of the same color temp, which is 95% of the bulbs out there, so they match. I prefer the warm white color of incandescent bulbs (3000k color temp) so I modified my camera combo to take a different warm white LED - but I work with electronics daily so I am comfortable taking the camera combo apart and replacing the small LED module in there with a different LED element.
The LED bulbs that go into the stock license plate light are a 36-41mm festoon type bulb. You can source them from a multitude of sources, including Ebay and Amazon. Example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/144966068864
I'd look for the bulbs with a 3 in a row using 5050 SMD LEDs, that should be of the same approximate lumen and light spread of the original bulbs. The original incandescent bulbs being 5w is a output of about 50-70 lumens.
The car's module that powers the bulbs is a pair of wires needs to see at most 250 to 300 ohms across the leads or it will detect an error and turn off the lights. LEDs alone use 1/10th the power of incandescent, so its resistance is much higher than 300 ohms. So to fix the error, you wire a 250-300 resistor across the two wires. At 14 volts, 250 ohms will consume 0.75 watts, so take something like a 560 ohm 1/2w and a 680 ohm 1/2w resistor wired in parallel (nets a 300 ohm resistor 1w) and connected across the wires to put out the error.
Im trying to figure out if I have a bad stock bose amp or if there is a coding issue preventing the PCCM+ from seeing the stock AMP. If its the former, I think RCA out to a standard amp will be the way to go.
Does anyone know offhand if the stock bose amp is something that has to get coded to the car / canbus?
I believe there is a pin from one of the ISO harnesses that turns it on - similar to the ask amp on the .1 +.2 non-bose cars that also uses an ACC control pin that turns the ask amps on. i know which pin it is on the .2 quadlock setup but not sure about the .1. while I could be wrong - i would start there.
great job as always - the 3000k warm lights always look better then the 5500+k blue tone.
Originally Posted by Steve W
The LED that comes in those combination camera/light is not separately replaceable. It's siliconed sealed under a cover. The LED light that comes out of the combo is a standard cool white light that you see with a lot of LED bulbs, I'm guessing about 5000K+ color temp. It would be easier for you to replace the incandescent 5W bulb in the other license light with a cool white LED bulb of the same color temp, which is 95% of the bulbs out there, so they match. I prefer the warm white color of incandescent bulbs (3000k color temp) so I modified my camera combo to take a different warm white LED - but I work with electronics daily so I am comfortable taking the camera combo apart and replacing the small LED module in there with a different LED element.
I'd look for the bulbs with a 3 in a row using 5050 SMD LEDs, that should be of the same approximate lumen and light spread of the original bulbs. The original incandescent bulbs being 5w is a output of about 50-70 lumens.
The car's module that powers the bulbs is a pair of wires needs to see at most 250 to 300 ohms across the leads or it will detect an error and turn off the lights. LEDs alone use 1/10th the power of incandescent, so its resistance is much higher than 300 ohms. So to fix the error, you wire a 250-300 resistor across the two wires. At 14 volts, 250 ohms will consume 0.75 watts, so take something like a 560 ohm 1/2w and a 680 ohm 1/2w resistor wired in parallel (nets a 300 ohm resistor 1w) and connected across the wires to put out the error.
Steve W, thank you for the quick and detailed response. Like you, I'm a professional in the electronics industry and am willing and able to disassemble the combo camera/light unit. I prefer to have the warmer look for the pair of lights so I'll do some experimenting to find a good match. I don't want to have the back of the car look lopsided. Thanks again.
Hi everyone. So I installed the PCCB+ unit which works perfectly. Can read all functions from the car on it, use Apple play, radio, etc.
A few weeks later I got the SD card. I installed it, and started the configuration wizard. Once through the wizard basics, it tells me I’m done, and then the whole thing crashes with a message stating “Unfortunately, iGO Navigation has stopped”. Once I click ok it reboots and does it all again.
Anyone ever see this? Btw, I retraced the GPS location (in a-pillar) to confirm it was clear and wires were not damaged. Also pulled the unit to confirm connection was solid / in the unit, which it is. I am thinking maybe the GPS or SD card is bad - please let me know if you have ideas…
Hi everyone. So I installed the PCCB+ unit which works perfectly. Can read all functions from the car on it, use Apple play, radio, etc.
A few weeks later I got the SD card. I installed it, and started the configuration wizard. Once through the wizard basics, it tells me I’m done, and then the whole thing crashes with a message stating “Unfortunately, iGO Navigation has stopped”. Once I click ok it reboots and does it all again.
Anyone ever see this? Btw, I retraced the GPS location (in a-pillar) to confirm it was clear and wires were not damaged. Also pulled the unit to confirm connection was solid / in the unit, which it is. I am thinking maybe the GPS or SD card is bad - please let me know if you have ideas…
I’m not familiar with that error but there are bad cards out there. I’ve got one. I’ve gotten somewhat conflicting information but suffice to say if your card suffers from same problem then there’s no fix yet
Steve W, thank you for the quick and detailed response. Like you, I'm a professional in the electronics industry and am willing and able to disassemble the combo camera/light unit. I prefer to have the warmer look for the pair of lights so I'll do some experimenting to find a good match. I don't want to have the back of the car look lopsided. Thanks again.
In that case maybe you can start with the warm white LEDs from the following link. Put one in the original license plate light housing, and if you desolder the festoon end caps, it may barely fit inside the camera housing. Or you may have to do some trimming of the housing cap to get it to fit. The whole housing is made of clear polycarbonate, and painted black, so you can trim and reshape with as needed, and even remove some of the black paint where the light outlet is if you want a larger lens output area.
Below is a pic of the cam, the LED board that was inside it, the small square board right above the red ruler, and on the right is the stock license light housing. You can see on the stock light housing, a silver stripe painted in it, that is to block a bright light hotspot of from forming right under the bulb. It comes like that from the factory. You'll probably need to partly block the light on the camera led from being too bright too. Experiment with some black tape to see what makes the same light distribution. You can see on my cam housing, I painted a silver stripe to mask some of light just like the original light.
Have you figured out how to get more volume? I tried the +5 volume, didnt do a whole lot. Its louder than with bluetooth
That was the only thing I've done, other than check the Loudness button...but I don't prefer to leave Loudness on, as I don't like the sound quality. Speaking of EQ...I only have Bass & Treble options but i saw a screenshot of a 6 band EQ. Was that for the PCCM+?
That was the only thing I've done, other than check the Loudness button...but I don't prefer to leave Loudness on, as I don't like the sound quality. Speaking of EQ...I only have Bass & Treble options but i saw a screenshot of a 6 band EQ. Was that for the PCCM+?
03-02-2023, 03:23 PM
