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Thanks for info/reference here certainly good to know. I'll see if I can confirm is the case still on the new PCCM+ with some testing. I believe I have all the necessary wires up in the frunk so shouldn't be too difficult to try (hopefully).
With respect to testing, what multimeter result would indicate if the level is sufficient to fed directly to the amp, or will still require boosting?
Thanks!
With respect to testing, what multimeter result would indicate if the level is sufficient to fed directly to the amp, or will still require boosting?
Thanks!
When I was under the mistaken impression the other day that my stock Bose amp was bad, I was researching how to connect a standard analog Alpine amp to the PCCM+. From what I was able to gather, I believe you would need to get one of these:
Has anyone considered upgrading to a later generation multifunction wheel now that we have a reason to do it?
Well yeah, but
1 Suspect it will still need to be coded to the car before it will do anything on the canbus and be detected by PCCM
2 Those steering wheels aren't cheap on the open market
So would be interested to know if somebody sans multifunction steering wheel , with access to one, could confirm/deny coding need
Well yeah, but
1 Suspect it will still need to be coded to the car before it will do anything on the canbus and be detected by PCCM
2 Those steering wheels aren't cheap on the open market
So would be interested to know if somebody sans multifunction steering wheel , with access to one, could confirm/deny coding need
I have a late model 987 steering wheel, no multi and manual transmission. All I had to do to get the horn to work was enable multi function with my Foxwell. What I am now wondering is if multi function will actually work if I upgraded to something like this:
I have a late model 987 steering wheel, no multi and manual transmission. All I had to do to get the horn to work was enable multi function with my Foxwell. What I am now wondering is if multi function will actually work if I upgraded to something like this:
Please let me know what Gaudin says--I bought my PCCM+ and SD card from them too. When the new 2023 SD cards do hit the market, it will be interesting to see if the alphabet issue is fixed.
Gaudin told me the new SD cards have yet to be released and they don’t have official direction from Porsche yet but they’re sure they’ll work something out. I guess I’ll check back with them in a couple of months.
I'm trying to determine how to feed an aftermarket amp with a signal from the PCCM+. I removed my original ASK amp (non-BOSE system), spliced into the factory harness to complete my aftermarket setup. BUT the current aftermarket head unit has RCA outs to send the line-level signal to the amp ... PCCM+ does not. .... do you think they would at line level or would I need an additional device to boost the signal?
Based on some testing I just did - I think one can get by without a line level converter with the PCCM+ feeding an external aftermarket amp. I'm testing on non-Bose here same as yours. I measured the voltage of the speaker wire outputs from the PCCM+ and voltage was moving around from .2v to 1.2v at a peak (playing music at high volume with speakers disconnected). I'm not a car stereo guru but based on some reading it looks like your aftermarket amplifier needs to be one that accepts line level inputs and has an input sensitivity that is under this voltage range which is very low - so probably compatible with any amp that accepts line level inputs. The amp I tested with has an input sensitivity of 5v max and all worked fine.
I'm trying to simplify my current setup (removing unnecessary stuff from prior setup) and have an AudioControl LC6i line level converter that was being used - and it doesn't seem like I need it. If you were feeding a sub with another amp or the like (which I had prior and removed) then maybe having this equipment in the mix would be helpful.
I'm going to do some more testing to see if I can tell any difference in sound quality with or without the AudioControl line level converter. It's kindof a pain to test due to having to flip the wiring around and resetting the amp levels/controls, but my initial testing seemed like the sound quality was the same in either scenario.
You just pop out the RCA and black wires. The red wire is actually already on the correct pin for the +5v
Here is a visual of what you wind up making:
Note that the +5v from the 10-pin connector does not feed back into the PCCM+ via the Subaru connector. It only goes out to the USB device to power it.
Can you please share how you depin the Subaru connector? What kind of tools are needed to crack it open?
The subaru connector is a bit of a pain to take apart. You have to use a really small flathead screwdriver to pry and slide off the black plastic outer housing off the metal inner housing.
Once you have done that, the de-pinning it works the same way as the little connectors used for RC helicopters and planes. Here is a good how-to video:
03-07-2023, 04:00 PM
