When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
are they widely used? There’s a reason they’re cheap. Most URO stuff is well known junk. Still for under $100 may be worthwhile to buy em twice.
I have not bought a whole lot of Uro parts but the ones I have seem decent quality to me. I usually avoid aftermarket sources for sensors though if possible.
@Capt. Obvious apparently hash run these for years on his TT but I am not sure how much he drives it. I dont believe its his daily?
I've had the URO 964 mounts in my car for 4 years/10k miles. I drive my car moderately aggressively and have done a bit of drag racing, which is probably about as hard you can be on the engine mounts. They're like-new still.
I think the key is making sure you have the correct cupped washers on top. I didn't use the specific OEM washers on mine, I used the cupped washers that go on the top of the front struts, they are larger than the engine mount versions. Or at least I think they were the washers from my car, they could have been from a different car I've owned over the years (regardless, they were very beefy cupped washers).
I read a thread just now on Uro parts and most it would seem hate them. All I wonder now is how many Uro parts I might have installed myself?!
I enjoyed the acronym for Uro = U Replace Often.
Both of my 996 Turbos have been out of action for a bit... Yesterday, I completed the annual services, finished up the KW refresh and new battery on the Polar, swapped the wheels between the two (Apex 18's and 808 19's), and gave both a quick bath. Polar still needs ride heigh adjustment, corner balance, and an alignment.
Damn I love these cars!
It is also super hard to capture Polar Silver's color correctly with digital cameras.
There are plenty of threads about the mounts and hardware but some things are not clarified until later down in the posts here and on 6speed by Powderhound and others.
90130531100 Cupped Washer, need 4
99902507401 Thick washer, goes on either side of the cupped washer, need 4
90008211801 M12 x 125mm Long bolt, need 2
99908421501 M12 flange nut, need 2
The mount to chassis bolts can be re-used. I purchased 150mm long grade 10.9 bolts from Fastenal instead of the 125mm above to aid in lowering the engine if I need to service something on top. They should be slightly stronger than the OEM bolts.
I've also been running the URO 964 engine mounts on one of my turbos... A bit over 4 years and 10K miles, holding up perfectly. Any of these firmer engine mounts are going to increase your NVH on the car, but they do really improve the dynamics.
Good idea on the longer 150mm bolts though. You are much more limited in how far you can lower the engine and still have the backstop of the engine mount bolts to constrain further movement. Not the end of th world with the 125mm though, once or twice I did completely remove the nuts and lower a bit more than would have been possible while keeping the nuts threaded on the end of the bolts, you just have to be much more careful to not lower too far.
----------------
If anyone isn't familiar with these 964 RS style engine mounts, some info from my notes several years ago:
OE Part numbers:
#1 964.375.043.81, Engine mount (or substitude URO)
#2 901.305.311.00, Heavy disc/cupped washer
#3 999.025.091.02, 12.7 x 45.5 x 5 mm washer, qty. 2 per side
#4 900.082.118.09, M12 x 1.2 x 125 mm hexagon bolt (or substitute longer 150mm bolt).
#5 999.084.215.09, M12 x 1.5 fastening nut. (65 ft-lbs torque)
The engine mounts themselves (#1) are about $780/pr OE or $110/pr URO.
Also, for part #2, not sure what the difference is between the 901.305.311.00 washers I have in my notes and the 999-025-074-01 that QwikKotaTX listed. Nor can I say for certain which ones I ended up using? Both still seem to be current/valid/available part numbers.
I ordered the mounts from rockauto and the hardware from pelican.
How much can I lower the engine with the stock mounts? And where would I measure the max amount? Ive heard of people busting coolant pipes lowering the engine. I have some boost leaks that need to be taken care of and I think it'd be easier to lower the engine a bit just to get at it.