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Started the car to go for a drive before the day's heat set in and as I engaged the clutch as the car idled, I merely engaged the pedal to the floorboard. Always an unwelcome occurrence. Slave, master, accumulator all under two years since my last 098/764/dmfw clutch R&R and let's see.. Did I replace the hydraulic line? Probably only thing I didn't. We shall see, it's one of those connected items I'm betting. No warning, no clutch behavior different. Checking later for visible Pentosin etc. Terrific! I needed something to do.
That picture shows the polar silver like its supposed too!
It seems like everytime I see a polar silver car its hard to tell the difference between it and an artic silver car.
It *is* a super difficult color to photograph.
This older photo shows the difference between Arctic and Polar pretty well, but often cameras and software just color-correct polar to look like arctic!
Agreed, thanks. I just fiddled around under the dash at the pedals. No loss of fluid at the master or leakage but the master itself feels odd and is moving at the clovis pin and I do not think that's "normal". Whatever it is it isn't pushing the pedal actuating the slave. I think I just have a failed master ( again ). If, so it;s just the hassle to tow it 150 miles and my indie will warranty the part from 22 months ago and I''ll eat the labor charge for lunch to R&R it next week.
Good news is? I believe it's a minor fix/setback if it IS the MC. Just a hassle!
Did a boost leak check, mostly OK. The plugs for the intercooler hoses make a big bang when they blow off .
I found a little hissing between the #5 and #6 intake runners - those are the inner ones on the oil tank side. I confirmed the intake runners are properly installed and the FPR is connected. So it must be the vacuum canister that's leaking. And to get pressure over there the check valve must be leaking.
Since this is a tiny leak (pressure holds for several minutes) I will leave it be. I expect to remove the engine (again) in a couple weeks and will fix it then.
Did a boost leak check, mostly OK. The plugs for the intercooler hoses make a big bang when they blow off .
I found a little hissing between the #5 and #6 intake runners - those are the inner ones on the oil tank side. I confirmed the intake runners are properly installed and the FPR is connected. So it must be the vacuum canister that's leaking. And to get pressure over there the check valve must be leaking.
Since this is a tiny leak (pressure holds for several minutes) I will leave it be. I expect to remove the engine (again) in a couple weeks and will fix it then.
Were any of the check valves replaced?
Did you time the leak down? Mind sharing those numbers?
I've read that these cars had boost leaks from the factory!
Managed to torque down my driver side axle today to spec as I broke the adapter last time I tried doing it. Bought a name brand 1/2 to 3/4 inch adapter and all went well. Still need to replace both axle nuts though but I think I will be okay for the time being. Also put some anti-seize on the locking ring on my coilovers.
Decided to clean the fender wells up a bit with some greased lightning and elbow grease
Did a boost leak check, mostly OK. The plugs for the intercooler hoses make a big bang when they blow off .
I found a little hissing between the #5 and #6 intake runners - those are the inner ones on the oil tank side. I confirmed the intake runners are properly installed and the FPR is connected. So it must be the vacuum canister that's leaking. And to get pressure over there the check valve must be leaking.
Since this is a tiny leak (pressure holds for several minutes) I will leave it be. I expect to remove the engine (again) in a couple weeks and will fix it then.
the vacuum canister is a PITA to get to. It is impossible with the engine in. The little plastic nipple on it breaks just by looking at it ! I wound up leaving the old one in place and rerouting with some new vacuum line to another location. Is your plenum a factory or iPd version? Those check valves on both go bad so I wouldn’t discount that either. If you are doing engine out then for sure fix vacuum canister properly. The car also works just fine with the vacuum canister lone plugged.
I have received Clint’s new replacement boot for the slave cylinder.
Finally able to put this back into the car.
A question if I may? As you seem to have more up close and personal experience with the slave and/or a general question for anyone?
Has anyone ever heard of or experienced the clutch master "breaking" at the pivot point where the pedal meets the actual master under the dash? Since I have no leakage and the pivot at the slave is "loose" ( and I do not believe it should be!? ) I am wondering if the actual "pivot pin" ( whatever its called ) has come loose? It's tough to get up under the pedals obviously and I have to get the car to my indie to get it in the air to see properly. The only experience I have with a "pedal to the floor" is the master/slave fully failing and this seems to be external and linkage related. TIA.
I did see this from @TrillyPop and if they see this and might offer advice, it's be appreciated. No fluid loss that I can see.
Here's the diagram if anyone has a suggestion as to any external part that has gone bad. But that doesn't make much sense if it is not internal to the master or even the clutch slave itself! The parts are located at #20 and that jpeg is clipped. Oh, well.
Were any of the check valves replaced?
Did you time the leak down? Mind sharing those numbers?
I've read that these cars had boost leaks from the factory!
I replaced the secret check valve in the top of the plenum. Lots of guys miss this one. It connects to a big hose that goes to the oil tank. When it goes bad it can't actually be replaced so I installed an inline check valve which is the same setup the IPD plenum uses. I don't think I have changed any other check valves.
If I recall it it took about a minute or two to drop the first PSI. Then about 10 minutes to drop to zero, except when the test plug on the driver's side blew off. I was using 16 PSI to test with.
Originally Posted by Scrh1
the vacuum canister is a PITA to get to. It is impossible with the engine in. The little plastic nipple on it breaks just by looking at it ! I wound up leaving the old one in place and rerouting with some new vacuum line to another location. Is your plenum a factory or iPd version? Those check valves on both go bad so I wouldn’t discount that either. If you are doing engine out then for sure fix vacuum canister properly. The car also works just fine with the vacuum canister lone plugged.
Factory plenum. The check valve I believe to be bad is the upper #21 valve on parts catalog page 108-05. I had a spare which I used on a different car or I have lost. I tested the vacuum canister the last time I had the engine out and it was fine then. I think when that check valve failed the pressure cracked the vacuum canister. It's leaking from the seam as far as I can tell.
*edit* I found one of the black and white check valves on my spare Cayenne engine so now I'm off to install it.
Did nothing with it; read about others adventures.
I cleaned my rear fender wells and managed to actually properly test the passenger side turbo wastegate. it works! woo
pro tip: heating up the hose with a propane torch for a half second softens it up enough to actually get it off the wastegate nipple without having to cut it or pry it.
A question if I may? As you seem to have more up close and personal experience with the slave and/or a general question for anyone?
Has anyone ever heard of or experienced the clutch master "breaking" at the pivot point where the pedal meets the actual master under the dash? Since I have no leakage and the pivot at the slave is "loose" ( and I do not believe it should be!? ) I am wondering if the actual "pivot pin" ( whatever its called ) has come loose? It's tough to get up under the pedals obviously and I have to get the car to my indie to get it in the air to see properly. The only experience I have with a "pedal to the floor" is the master/slave fully failing and this seems to be external and linkage related. TIA.
I did see this from @TrillyPop and if they see this and might offer advice, it's be appreciated. No fluid loss that I can see.
06-14-2024, 07:59 PM
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