Any Rennlisters from New Zealand?
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John why did you not go for the 285/30/18?
What is stock rear width for the R?
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235/40/18 is almost the same diameter as 235/35/19. 265/35/18 is the same as well, whereas 265/35/19 is ~ 3% bigger. I don't want to mess with the sizes as I figure Porsche had a reason for 265 on the rears.
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Fair call. Thats my experience too, although I believe you can always afoord to increase the width on the front of a 911 by 10-20mm without affecting its handling negativelu (usually reduced understeer). With the Cayman platform Id have no idea what you can get away with without upsetting things.
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I already have 19's
however I can't bring myself to pay $4,000 per set of Cup 2s when alot of my driving is DD commuting, plus it would mean abandoning 4,000km old PS2s on the rears.
Instead, I can spend $4,000 on a set of OZ 18" and $1,830 on Z221s, then renew the tyres at half the cost per set of the Cup2. I suspect 18" wheels that fit Caymans will be hot property as more turn into race cars in the future so it's not a dead cost.
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Instead, I can spend $4,000 on a set of OZ 18" and $1,830 on Z221s, then renew the tyres at half the cost per set of the Cup2. I suspect 18" wheels that fit Caymans will be hot property as more turn into race cars in the future so it's not a dead cost.
Have you considered Enkei NT03 wheels? Lots of Caymans run them for race duty, with 235/40/18 and 265/35/18.
That's what I run on my 944.
Cheers,
Mike
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Originally Posted by Moochier
What's the difference between cast and forged again... As in which is better?
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Ha, It was probably someone from Ponsonby, the girls over here have all got them... Then again Kohi is a bit far away so probably not!
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Forged wheels are formed using immense pressure upon billet material to create a wheel. Cast wheels are created by pouring molten metal into a cast and machine finished. Forged wheels are free of pores and voids and have its strength along its lengthwise axis where as a cast wheels strength is in all directions. Forged wheels are lighter relative to there density, stronger and are far more expensive
I understand there can we weight, looks and strength variables but if you find a $1000 good looking wheel that's not too heavy, is strength really a critical factor?
I've never seen a wheel fail unless it's been in an accident, hit something pretty hard etc... But that doesn't mean they can't, I just wonder why you'd then pay for a $4000 set of wheels.
I've generally always thought people do spend the money on wheels for cosmetic reasons, brand kudos etc... All the wrong reasons!
I can understand paying for the weight advantage of light wheels, but it appears that's down the list of importance unless your racing...
See I've found a set of cheap wheels, that look good and I don't believe are too heavy and trying to understand what the downside is... If strength was an issue, surely they wouldn't pass some form of certification and I could use the for street or track depending on which was easier in wheels.
Appreciate any opinions on this...
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Most of the modern 911's come with cast wheels from what I've read, but that could just be Turbo owners blowing their own trumpet!
With the expense of making a forged wheel, the opportunity for making cheaper, lower quality product is not there, so combined with a reputable manufacturer you all but know you're getting a quality product.
With cast, it is easier to cut corners, so the market is awash with cheap knock offs and lower quality product. This is fine for the vast majority of consumers who put 18" replica BBS wheels on their sacked out E30, but if they find their way onto a car that is going to be driven in anger at the track their weakness is much more likely to shine through.
I've never seen anyone break a wheel, but I've chatted to enough people in the wheel and car servicing industry to know that it does happen. There are threads on rennlist if you search.
I'd consider a cast wheel from a reputable vendor for street use, but I'd be hesitant to take them on the track. The difference being that my car is significantly heavier than yours, so perhaps you'd be ok?
Take everything I say with a grain or two of salt, I tend to be overly risk averse sometimes
I haven't bought new purely because I want a decent forged set, and can't bring myself to pay the premium.
It should also be noted that the majority of OZ wheels seem to be cast from what I can see on their site. In fact I can't find the Superforgiata model which I know is forged (although they are listed on Tire Rack).
With the expense of making a forged wheel, the opportunity for making cheaper, lower quality product is not there, so combined with a reputable manufacturer you all but know you're getting a quality product.
With cast, it is easier to cut corners, so the market is awash with cheap knock offs and lower quality product. This is fine for the vast majority of consumers who put 18" replica BBS wheels on their sacked out E30, but if they find their way onto a car that is going to be driven in anger at the track their weakness is much more likely to shine through.
I've never seen anyone break a wheel, but I've chatted to enough people in the wheel and car servicing industry to know that it does happen. There are threads on rennlist if you search.
I'd consider a cast wheel from a reputable vendor for street use, but I'd be hesitant to take them on the track. The difference being that my car is significantly heavier than yours, so perhaps you'd be ok?
Take everything I say with a grain or two of salt, I tend to be overly risk averse sometimes
![EEK!](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)
It should also be noted that the majority of OZ wheels seem to be cast from what I can see on their site. In fact I can't find the Superforgiata model which I know is forged (although they are listed on Tire Rack).
Last edited by nzskater; 07-23-2015 at 05:56 PM.
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I'm trying to understand why some wheels are $1000 and others are say $4000 and why you'd pay for the expensive ones.
I understand there can we weight, looks and strength variables but if you find a $1000 good looking wheel that's not too heavy, is strength really a critical factor?
I've never seen a wheel fail unless it's been in an accident, hit something pretty hard etc... But that doesn't mean they can't, I just wonder why you'd then pay for a $4000 set of wheels.
I've generally always thought people do spend the money on wheels for cosmetic reasons, brand kudos etc... All the wrong reasons!
I can understand paying for the weight advantage of light wheels, but it appears that's down the list of importance unless your racing...
See I've found a set of cheap wheels, that look good and I don't believe are too heavy and trying to understand what the downside is... If strength was an issue, surely they wouldn't pass some form of certification and I could use the for street or track depending on which was easier in wheels.
Appreciate any opinions on this...
I understand there can we weight, looks and strength variables but if you find a $1000 good looking wheel that's not too heavy, is strength really a critical factor?
I've never seen a wheel fail unless it's been in an accident, hit something pretty hard etc... But that doesn't mean they can't, I just wonder why you'd then pay for a $4000 set of wheels.
I've generally always thought people do spend the money on wheels for cosmetic reasons, brand kudos etc... All the wrong reasons!
I can understand paying for the weight advantage of light wheels, but it appears that's down the list of importance unless your racing...
See I've found a set of cheap wheels, that look good and I don't believe are too heavy and trying to understand what the downside is... If strength was an issue, surely they wouldn't pass some form of certification and I could use the for street or track depending on which was easier in wheels.
Appreciate any opinions on this...
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The Mugen RNR wheels on our race car are light, but cast. They are known to be prone to cracking so I checked them carefully before purchase. The forged Fuchs will see out the Century. Money well spent.
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I'm trying to understand why some wheels are $1000 and others are say $4000 and why you'd pay for the expensive ones.
I understand there can we weight, looks and strength variables but if you find a $1000 good looking wheel that's not too heavy, is strength really a critical factor?
I've never seen a wheel fail unless it's been in an accident, hit something pretty hard etc... But that doesn't mean they can't, I just wonder why you'd then pay for a $4000 set of wheels.
I've generally always thought people do spend the money on wheels for cosmetic reasons, brand kudos etc... All the wrong reasons!
I can understand paying for the weight advantage of light wheels, but it appears that's down the list of importance unless your racing...
See I've found a set of cheap wheels, that look good and I don't believe are too heavy and trying to understand what the downside is... If strength was an issue, surely they wouldn't pass some form of certification and I could use the for street or track depending on which was easier in wheels.
Appreciate any opinions on this...
I understand there can we weight, looks and strength variables but if you find a $1000 good looking wheel that's not too heavy, is strength really a critical factor?
I've never seen a wheel fail unless it's been in an accident, hit something pretty hard etc... But that doesn't mean they can't, I just wonder why you'd then pay for a $4000 set of wheels.
I've generally always thought people do spend the money on wheels for cosmetic reasons, brand kudos etc... All the wrong reasons!
I can understand paying for the weight advantage of light wheels, but it appears that's down the list of importance unless your racing...
See I've found a set of cheap wheels, that look good and I don't believe are too heavy and trying to understand what the downside is... If strength was an issue, surely they wouldn't pass some form of certification and I could use the for street or track depending on which was easier in wheels.
Appreciate any opinions on this...
I used to have a wheel fetish so can probably speak to this as well as anyone (Infact I believe at least four sets of my past wheels are floating around owners car on this very board!). I think Ive bought and sold 6 sets alone for the 993 over the last 15 years.
Firstly - $4000 is not alot of money to spend on a set of 5xPCD150 wheels with the correct width (J) and offset (ET) for a Porsche. Infact that is very much at the cheap end for a set of new wheels.
Aftermarket is fine as long as the brand has a reasonable reputation. OZ are one of teh cheaper aftermarket along with Enkei and there are no doubt many more. The higher end brands from teh states such as Forgeline, HRE etc are buitifully crafted, strong and very light but will run you $8-12K landed.
The exchange rate has really kicked the guts out of importing larger ticket car stuff from the states. Im pretty sure if I was a NZ Post investor I would have started to tremble at the thought of the lower parcel columes to come as the Kiwi sinks.
At theend of teh day, if these are wheels for the street I dont think you should worry too much. I would just research to see if they have been used ona cayman previously and if so what the feedback was like. Afterall if a manufacturer is making wheels in the right stud pattern and offset for a Porsche Cayman (fairly unique) then they must be selling to Porsche owners.
Remembers there are many brands out there suck as Work & Bombansier from Japan which you may not have heard off but which are very highly regarded in their home markets.
So spill teh beans and post what youare thinking. We may beable to save you making a tasteless purchase LOL!
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about 3 years ago I saw a Nissan gtr on Targa running aftermarket wheels and they had cracked across some of the spokes. The wheels themselves had not otherwise been damaged - still round and no hits - so just from the pressures they had been under. In the competition there is a service at least every 2 stages so it was picked up before failure but could be a bad accident in the event of failure
Nothing I've read yet has convinced me that I should bite the bullet on the expensive wheels, for my usage.
I'm generally a believer of 'you get what you pay for' but I'm questioning whether I need $4000 over $1000 wheels.
I am thinking I could keep my OEM wheels for track work and the cheap set for my streets/wets that will see easier use.