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The connector you are referring to is the MOST25 or MOST150 bus (Media Oriented Systems Transport) - depending on the year of your car.
PCM3.1 with Bose or Burmester systems have this bus. This is the digital audio connection to the amplifier. It is fiber optic. CDR31+ don’t have it, as transport/connection is via wire, not fiber.
Did you check board compatibility with CDR31+? I didn’t think it was compatible, but I could be wrong.
From Isudar website… check compatibility, only PCM3.1. CDR31+ not listed. But again, I may be wrong.
My understanding, which may be wrong, is I need an AUX input in the glovebox and be running the PCM software on the radio. My hardware looks just like the hardware in the videos. But I just found another site that distinguishes between the CDR and PCM hardware. I'll have to email KIMI and see what's up.
Edit- I'm beginning to believe you're correct. I've emailed Kimi with questions and will update this Thread as I hear from her.
Thanks!
Hey everyone, I installed the Isudar CarPlay retrofit product in my PCM3.1. Everything went well but I have an audio issue:
the sound works only on the passenger side. I have the Bose Surround system installed. If I call someone via CarPlay, all speakers are working but if I stream Music or listen to a podcast, only the passenger side works. I tried to use the audio balance setting and it’s centered. I also just upgraded the firmware which solved the low volume issue for me but not the speaker issue.
Do you have any idea why the sound for audio streaming works only on the passenger side?
EDIT: for FM radio everything works fine, only audio in CarPlay mode works only on the passenger side.
Hey everyone, I installed the Isudar CarPlay retrofit product in my PCM3.1. Everything went well but I have an audio issue:
the sound works only on the passenger side. I have the Bose Surround system installed. If I call someone via CarPlay, all speakers are working but if I stream Music or listen to a podcast, only the passenger side works. I tried to use the audio balance setting and it’s centered. I also just upgraded the firmware which solved the low volume issue for me but not the speaker issue.
Do you have any idea why the sound for audio streaming works only on the passenger side?
EDIT: for FM radio everything works fine, only audio in CarPlay mode works only on the passenger side.
Thank you! Jo911
I was going to ask about the rest of your system, like FM and CD…. If that is working fine, most likely you have a connection issue in the board itself. I would re-seat all wires and harnesses and ribbon wires in the board and and Quadlock. Start with that.
I already removed everything and tried it again, still doesn’t work. Any other idea? The AUX cable is only for the microphone. Which cable is responsible for the audio signal? I mean phone via CarPlay works fine but audio streaming doesn’t.
I already removed everything and tried it again, still doesn’t work. Any other idea? The AUX cable is only for the microphone. Which cable is responsible for the audio signal? I mean phone via CarPlay works fine but audio streaming doesn’t.
Thank you again!
jo991
This is copied from another thread...
Analog signal from CarPlay goes in 3 wires (L, R, GND) on the quad lock connector.
Some days ago, I told you that I have connection issues, when using wireless CarPlay on my v2.0 board.
Yesterday Kimi have sent me a software update, which definitely improved the connection problem!
It works very good for me except the first time, when I try to connect my phone with CarPlay.
I need to turn off WiFi and Bluetooth and then it connects to CarPlay and it’s not stuttering anymore when playing music.
Isudar sent me a file yesterday which was is the same as the one posted on here weeks ago for my V1.2 board. I have resisted until today to install it but anyway I've done it.
Not noticed any difference except my parking sensors display was just showing a black screen. Solved this however by going in to settings and selecting 'factory camera' rather than 'aftermarket'.
Isudar confirmed that the module will not work with my car. I put the stereo back together, including getting the CD player flat cable seated. I started that car and the stereo worked fine. I cleaned up started the car again and got all sorts of error messages and no power to the stereo. I cleared the faults, checked the fuse, and still no power to the stereo. I removed the stereo and can smell burnt electronics. :-(
This didn't turn out to be the birthday present I expected. Sigh
What are suggestions for next steps-bring it to a car audio repair-will they even look at it?
Isudar confirmed that the module will not work with my car. I put the stereo back together, including getting the CD player flat cable seated. I started that car and the stereo worked fine. I cleaned up started the car again and got all sorts of error messages and no power to the stereo. I cleared the faults, checked the fuse, and still no power to the stereo. I removed the stereo and can smell burnt electronics. :-(
This didn't turn out to be the birthday present I expected. Sigh
What are suggestions for next steps-bring it to a car audio repair-will they even look at it?
Thanks I really appreciate it. Sometimes you try something beyond your skill level to stretch your skills. And sometimes it doesn’t work. I guess I’ll be looking for a new aftermarket stereo. Got to look at the positive side.
Isudar confirmed that the module will not work with my car. I put the stereo back together, including getting the CD player flat cable seated. I started that car and the stereo worked fine. I cleaned up started the car again and got all sorts of error messages and no power to the stereo. I cleared the faults, checked the fuse, and still no power to the stereo. I removed the stereo and can smell burnt electronics. :-(
This didn't turn out to be the birthday present I expected. Sigh
What are suggestions for next steps-bring it to a car audio repair-will they even look at it?
TIA-
How did you view/clear faults? Did you record them? Can your diagnostic device communicate with the PCM?
Board-level electronics repair is not unheard of, but it is rare these days. A laptop repair shop that does board-level repairs may be able to help you identify/fix if you have a burnt cap on a board somewhere, but you may have to beg/bribe them.
I'd start with some simple investigation on your side.
1. Is the burnt smell coming from the PCM unit itself (like if you take it out of the car into the house, does it smell)? Or is the smell coming from in the dash? Although it's a bit less likely since no fuses are blown, it's possible a wire in the harness shorted or broke somewhere.
2. Inspect both the car and PCM sides of the harness for damage - burnt/melted pins/harnesses.
3. Open up the PCM and do a thorough visual inspection for obvious issues (soot, burns, bubbles, crispyness) on the PCBs and cables.
Depending on your level of DIY-ability and access to tools, you could also use a DVOM to check for power at the PCM harness, and then try to apply 12V bench power to the PCM to see if you get a response outside of the car environment.
How did you view/clear faults? Did you record them? Can your diagnostic device communicate with the PCM?
Board-level electronics repair is not unheard of, but it is rare these days. A laptop repair shop that does board-level repairs may be able to help you identify/fix if you have a burnt cap on a board somewhere, but you may have to beg/bribe them.
I'd start with some simple investigation on your side.
1. Is the burnt smell coming from the PCM unit itself (like if you take it out of the car into the house, does it smell)? Or is the smell coming from in the dash? Although it's a bit less likely since no fuses are blown, it's possible a wire in the harness shorted or broke somewhere.
2. Inspect both the car and PCM sides of the harness for damage - burnt/melted pins/harnesses.
3. Open up the PCM and do a thorough visual inspection for obvious issues (soot, burns, bubbles, crispyness) on the PCBs and cables.
Depending on your level of DIY-ability and access to tools, you could also use a DVOM to check for power at the PCM harness, and then try to apply 12V bench power to the PCM to see if you get a response outside of the car environment.
1. I used my CReader (sp?) code reader. “Lost communication with Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC) control module” X3
2. I don’t have any burnt smell in the car and didn’t see any fried parts in the stereo or the clips, but I’ll look again.
3. Electronics Analysis is beyond my DIY.
4. I’m afraid the stereo is like a British car with Lucas Electrics-once you let the smoke out of the system, you’re screwed.
This is unfortunate, sorry it happened to you...sucks......but there are some specialty PCM repair people....some in EU. One in particular who does CP activation comes to mind.
Re: Lost communication code - does your reader have the ability to view the time stamp on that code? Curious if it is from the past, or if it is a current code.
If you have the PCM all plugged in like it should be, and you clear the code, and it comes right back - then yeah something is not communicating, probably a bad omen.
Re: electrical analysis - you don't need to be an electrical engineer necessarily to find big issues. Kind of like how we tell people who aren't "car people" to check under their hood every once in a while - even if you don't know what you are looking at, you can often see if something is abnormal. Under the hood even a non-car-person can identify an oil leak, or a wire that a rodent got to, or a brake reservoir below the "min" line. Similarly, a "non-electrical-engineer" can look at a circuit board and visually spot a blown capacitor.
It's not a full circuit board diagnosis, but if you've got the PCM out on your kitchen table, it's not going to hurt to look around inside it a little bit for signs that something went POOF. If you can smell burnt electrons, there's a fair chance there's some visual evidence somewhere.
01-12-2022, 03:57 PM
