Can you pls explain? Could the underside be cleaned up from the crust? Replacing the shifter with the provided OEM one would be 4-5hr labor which could be paid by selling the sequential shifter, with some $ left. Not an expert here but that price looked like a steal.

 

I think Doug is referring to the following photos. Pic 95 in the BAT auction shows it, there is rust on the engine casing bolts and also on the line in the upper left hand corner of the photo. Post 96 shows rust on the exhaust hardware bolts holding the exhaust tips to the exhaust. Looks like it was probably winter driven at some point, as that is pretty much how my Audi looks, although much worse than that (5-10x worse), after 7 Ohio winters and another 2-3 NY winters before I had it. Dry ice blasting may be a possibility on a car like that, although I know next to nothing on the topic and whether it would remove the rust or not.

 

Owner said he blew a coolant line and says what you see is the staining from the anti freeze.

 

I didn't pay much attention to the auction / photos and didn't hear anything from the RL Braintrust so just assumed it was "fine" - This makes more sense.

 

Plenty of undercarriage bolts and nuts can show rust even if it has never seeing snow. It’s all normal on a car this age unless the car lived in bubble and was never used. Now, if the rust is excessive to include bigger metal pieces then that’s a different story. I wouldn’t worry about it.

 

Agreed. All my summer cars show rust on unprotected steel hardware bits like exhaust manifold bolts. It's just surface rust from moisture due to condensation and has nothing to do with being driven in inclement weather or exposed to road salt. Anytime you get some cold weather, followed by higher humidity, condensation will occur on metal pieces.

 

So this car has been posted here a few times, from googling the VIN, which is why I love this forum and thread soo much

However, there doesn't seem to be a lot of information on it. Looks like someone had a deposit on it, but it never sold to that individual. Atlas looks sooo good on the 997. Looks like a nice example but what concerns me is when cars aren't moving. Like the white 2010 from gulf coast referenced last week. Maybe people know more about these?

https://www.driventexas.com/vehicles...1-gt3-01107po1

 

I inquired about the Atla Gray .1 and was told the seller took a deposit from a friend contingent on financing. That fell through after a couple weeks and the car went back up for sale. I love the color and options on this one, just felt it was still priced a little high for me. I think they're pretty much at their bottom with what they have in the car.

 

I have a bit of info on this car which was shared with me by another member that is in the market.

As I'm sure you know, that car was on BAT here, last year. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/20...he-911-gt3-23/

Before it went on BAT, someone had a PPI done on the car which revealed it needed an annual service (nothing to be concerned with), a cracked coolant reservoir (common enough at least on 996's, I'm sure 997's aren't far behind due to age/mileage), some suspension/steering items including a steering rack, and inner and outer tire rod ends (no clue why a steering rack was needed), a new clutch (from my understanding, Driven Texas just installed a fresh clutch), TPMS sensors (you can have these coded out, or just replace these with OEM at your next tire swap), major service (so plugs, filters, fuel filter, etc), trans fluid (since it's due at the 12 year mark according to Porsche), and motor mounts. The PPI was done at a Porsche dealer, so yes, the pricing was high, as most dealers would be. I would question why they recommended steering rack replacement? I've found dealers are often all about replacing items, not thinking about any alternatives or what else could be done without replacing a full part. So if you're interested in that car, I would recommend getting your own PPI done on the car at a Porsche enthusiast shop and seeing what they say. Many cars coming onto the market either aren't going to come with service records, or if it does, you're going to notice items you would have replaced but the previous owners did not replace/service. That's why I think buying a car that has been well maintained with proper oil changes, and inspections is key, but being ok if the car hasn't had plugs in 6 years, as if you're only driving the car a couple thousand miles per year, the plugs are probably fine, Porsche recommends that 4 year interval to avoid having the plugs get seized into the block, from my understanding. Just have a bit of cash laying around to get the car up to your maintenance standards, no matter which one you go for. Between last year and now, most of this work may have already been completed, which is why I think it's important to get full info on everything that the car needs as of this second, not what it needed last year.

However, there is an Arctic Silver car in the classifieds that was posted for $92k, PCCB's, that is the car I would be going for, I think, providing it is up to date on maintenance.

As far as cars not moving, people get cold feet, can't get approved for financing, find one closer to them that they decide to purchase, or it could be that they got a PPI and it didn't pass. But in general, there's lots of people that commit to buying a car, then just back out for random reasons.

 

After looking at the Carfax on the Atlas car, it appears quite a bit of work has been done on it in the past year. So yes, I would inquire and consider getting a PPI of your own.

My point is the cars I tend to avoid are the ones with real stories. This car, from what I know, does not appear to have stories. It appears to be a car that was maintained, but not overly maintained. Not everyone wants to be replacing spark plugs on a car when they've only driven 6k miles in the past 4 years. Air filters probably don't need to be done if the car is driven less than 10k miles. I would get a good snapshot of the condition as of today and make your decision based on that. Having this level of information, like past PPI's, paint meter readings, DME's, is great to help evaluate a car and make a smart purchase, but there's a point where it becomes analysis paralysis, and you'll never end up buying a car and enjoying it because you're so afraid to use it. Best to buy the best car you can with the information you have, drive and maintain.

 

Thank you for the information and someone PM'd me additional information as well. I've looked at the Silver GT3 thread a few times but silver isn't high on my list despite that one being very well sorted from the comments on the seller's reputation. I have a solid buyer for my 991 so once thats locked down, Ill schedule a PPI on the Atlas and see what comes back.

For me, I want a car I can drive and feel ok with it. Even the white one with a minor accident mentioned previously, is perfect for me as long as its repaired to spec and I can get a price point Im comfortable with. These cars, in my opinion, are meant to be driven and I want to be able to do that, without losing a ton of resale, not that its an investment. However, you can see quite the price gap between a car that is/was/can be driven vs one with lower miles. Id feel comfortable in the low $80s for the Atlas, don't know if thats possible or realistic. Lets see what happens. Ill be sure to give back to this thread with any information I find

 

I'm glad that you're willing to buy a car that has either a couple of miles on it (they're cars, they're meant to be used), or even a car with a minor incident. I truly believe every car on the market, except for maybe a few, have an appropriate price for the condition that they're in, or that there is an appropriate use (track use vs nice weather driver) for the condition that they're in. If you want something you can load some miles on, avoid some of the larger depreciation and also not feel guilty about driving, then the cars you described are perfect.

Personally, I do not see low $80s happening for that Atlas car. The member that was considering that car is in this thread, so he can PM you directly, but that dealer I think is going to hold around mid to upper $80s, if I was to guess. They've invested some money into that car. I'd say anything around upper $80s is probably fair for both buyer and seller, providing it doesn't need a ton of stuff. But $10k off that car is probably less likely. Just being honest with what I would say you're going to get that car for. I could see you getting a minor accident car with some miles though for low $80s, as the accident will probably turn more people away. So you should have some negotiating power.

 

I feel like all 997 GT cars have a little rust/corrasion on the bolts no matter how well maintained by the owner. It almost seem like it is the bolts themselves.

The shop I used for my PPI said it is pretty normal and they deal with a fair amount of GT cars, just my $.02

 

Yes, that member has PMd about the price expectation sand Im probably NOT going to get where Id like and if it checks out, maybe Ill be ok going a little higher. The good thing is I have no issue being patient. The white one listed on the 11/11, https://rennlist.com/forums/997-gt2-...l#post17020971 , is local to me as well. Knowing the history, being able to get my eyes on it and use my highly trusted Indy to do the PPI, has my interest as well. At the end of the day, Ill probably take a car like this and only improve its condition, thats more fun for me to piece something together while enjoying it, rather than the latter. Fingers crossed after thanksgiving I can REALLY get serious on my search and get a PPI on the Atlas car as I can't stop looking at it

 

I actually contacted the Atlas car a week ago, from what they told me, they were pretty firm on the price.