When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Well not today but after 5yrs of enjoyment. I'd decided to sell my car back to RAC Performance while the market is still hot.
Sales is pending now & the new owner will be happy to know that they don't have worry about any major services cause its all been done.
Sad to see it go but I want time to try something new. I've been looking at the late Gen1 R8 V10 & 991.1 GTS for quite sometime now.
It's crazy to see how much the $$ have gone up lately.
Feeling lucky today! Had to drive around the block a few times to get it...
Nice.
Had you done it right, you would've had the foresight to reset your trip odometer 777 miles ago. That's ok, though, you get 2 more tries at it at 88,888 and 99,999 miles that last one is worth two pics 1 mile apart
It needs a good bit of TLC. I've been pecking away at it in the evenings (started with a whole lot of cleaning, then lots of little, but at times expensive things), but really moved the ball today:
Rebuilt the subwoofer with electronics/wiring/speaker from one I picked up on eBay
Replaced the air filter and heavily cleaned the airbox and the engine compartment
Replaced the foam on the vent flap--thanks to everyone that's created how-to's and videos for this one. Mine had just started to break apart, so I would have had many lovely years of little black particles out of the HVAC vents.
Replaced the cabin air filter
I did freak out a bit at the PASM and PSM failure messages on the first restart after putting it all back together, but it seemed to clear itself up once I started moving.
I went elbows-deep into my new-to-me 2006 c2 over the last couple days. It has 42k miles and had regular dealer services but no major work done. Original plugs & coils, etc..... The long AOS line is leaking so I decide to replace the AOS & all hoses. I'm also replacing water pump & thermostat, coolant tank, plugs & coils (all original.) I thought about doing the oil cooler but it's in good shape. I figure I'd do it all now since I've got it torn apart. I'm also taking my stock mufflers to the shop tomorrow for the Gundo hack. Lots of parts on the way.... I'm anxious to get it put back together and drive it. I've only owned it 2 weeks and driven it half a dozen times. A big thanks for all on this forum that have created detailed DIY posts - and FCP Euro for the excellent YouTube vids. I'd still be trying to take out the air filter box without the helpful instructions!
Leaking AOS hose Parts cleaned up ready for reinstallation Crack starting Left intake bank Right intake bank A scary mess of hoses, plastic and metal!
Completed my first oil change. Very straight forward. Was surprised by the tight fit when seating the filter within the housing. The only annoyance was the hex bit getting stuck in the oil drain plug during removal and installation of the new plug. Some PB blaster and channel locks worked it free in both cases, but not something I want to repeat every year. Any tips?
Completed my first oil change. Very straight forward. Was surprised by the tight fit when seating the filter within the housing. The only annoyance was the hex bit getting stuck in the oil drain plug during removal and installation of the new plug. Some PB blaster and channel locks worked it free in both cases, but not something I want to repeat every year. Any tips?
Yes, get the magnetic drain plug from LN Engineering and make sure the hex bit is fully seated into the cavity when tightening or loosening. Also, do not use the torque spec from Porsche for either the steel OEM plug or the aluminum LN plug. The spec on the aluminum plus is 19 ft. lbs, and IMO that's also as tight as you should be putting in the steel OEM plug too. I think the factory spec is something ridiculous like 37 ft. lbs, - not only will that eventually strip out the aluminum sump threads, but it's also probably why the tool got jammed in it when trying to remove it.
Use a new aluminum crush washer each time. LN sells a pack of those you can order when you order their drain plug.
Yes, get the magnetic drain plug from LN Engineering and make sure the hex bit is fully seated into the cavity when tightening or loosening. Also, do not use the torque spec from Porsche for either the steel OEM plug or the aluminum LN plug. The spec on the aluminum plus is 19 ft. lbs, and IMO that's also as tight as you should be putting in the steel OEM plug too. I think the factory spec is something ridiculous like 37 ft. lbs, - not only will that eventually strip out the aluminum sump threads, but it's also probably why the tool got jammed in it when trying to remove it.
Use a new aluminum crush washer each time. LN sells a pack of those you can order when you order their drain plug.
My magnetic drain plug came in last week from LN. It has the torque specs on the plug.
My magnetic drain plug came in last week from LN. It has the torque specs on the plug.
Yep, should say 19 ft. lbs. on that sticker over the hex opening. BTW, this plug also fits the lower drain hole of the Manual Transmission and it's a great idea to install one there too as it will keep ferrous gear wear from circulating in the transmission fluid. You can install one whenever you swap out your MT fluid. When you do only use MobilLube PTX - don't experiment with your other favorite gear oil.
Yep, should say 19 ft. lbs. on that sticker over the hex opening. BTW, this plug also fits the lower drain hole of the Manual Transmission and it's a great idea to install one there too as it will keep ferrous gear wear from circulating in the transmission fluid. You can install one whenever you swap out your MT fluid. When you do only use MobilLube PTX - don't experiment with your other favorite gear oil.
That’s also on my “To Do List”. I’ll put another one in order.
Side note: I’ve had my 911 a little over a month now, but I’ve been a lurker and then joined a few years back in preparation and researching. You’ve always been a very knowledgeable and helpful member on these forums since I’ve been reading. Never condescending or snarky. I picked up on that right away and take your posts as the gospel. I just wanted to thank you for everything you share.
That’s also on my “To Do List”. I’ll put another one in order.
Side note: I’ve had my 911 a little over a month now, but I’ve been a lurker and then joined a few years back in preparation and researching. You’ve always been a very knowledgeable and helpful member on these forums since I’ve been reading. Never condescending or snarky. I picked up on that right away and take your posts as the gospel. I just wanted to thank you for everything you share.
Wow, thanks a lot. That's very nice of you to say. I guess this is why I'm now a "Rennlist Community Member" as of last week, along with a few other guys (what we used to call a Moderator). Really like you car too!
12 gallons later (drain, refill with distilled water, drain, refill with coolant) changed the coolant. After being in the car for 10 years - Looked good, tasted even better (it was really hot outside) , tested below -25, did not test Ph. 10 yrs is long enough for any "lifetime" fluid. Link - https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...2-9a1-diy.html
Last edited by Phrog Phlyer; 08-23-2021 at 03:00 PM.
Wow, thanks a lot. That's very nice of you to say. I guess this is why I'm now a "Rennlist Community Member" as of last week, along with a few other guys (what we used to call a Moderator). Really like you car too!
Congrats!! It’s completely warranted. It’s fair to say you are more of a leader on the forum than a member, so it’s fitting. And thanks, I’m loving it!!
08-21-2021, 04:37 PM
that last one is worth two pics 1 mile apart 
