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I was always bothered by the cheap plastic looking fuse box cover in my Sand Beige interior. It stuck out like a sore thumb to me, so I got a leather covered one to better match my interior.
old stock black plastic fuse cover:
Leather cover installed. Now matches better with passenger side:
Seen from outside the car. This is the view that always bothered me. From this viewpoint, the black panel looked bad to me.
Last edited by Carreralicious; 09-08-2021 at 12:19 PM.
I like how you now maintain the "2 tone line" at the floor vs having a big black patch. Never thought of the cab perspective of interacting with the interior of the car from the exterior.
Tons better Carreralicious! Now I'll send you my address and you can send those mats to me so it'll allow you to order tan ones
LOL! Thanks, but I had tan ones in there before. Put these dark blue ones in there (guess they look black in the pics), to match my outside paint color (Midnight Blue), and hide shoe marks.
I like how you now maintain the "2 tone line" at the floor vs having a big black patch. Never thought of the cab perspective of interacting with the interior of the car from the exterior.
WATCH THOSE SHOES, thats leather down there!
Thanks! I know no one’s gonna notice it but me, but it bothered me, so now one more problem solved. And yeah, guess I’ll have to be careful on it since it is leather.
Finally installed adjustable rear toe links and got a new alignment!
Hi Skube,
I have H&R lowering springs that i'm itching to install (same car as yours). I have already bought a front bump steer kit from Pelican, and based on what I can glean from the 'listers collective think, I may need rear links like you.
I assume your ride height is lower than stock, could you actually feel by the seat of your pants, the rear end moving around differently due to lowering induced rear bump steer?
What is your chosen wheel center to guard height after lowering on your coil-overs?(as a guide for comparison when I lower mine)
By adjustment, how much length did you have actually add or subtract from the standard OEM rear toe link length?
Did you stick to OEM toe settings, or something a little more "racy".
What brand rear toe links did you go with?
BTW I like your Quickjack too. (want)
Sorry about this, I know it sounds a bit like a game show quick fire quiz, but hey, I'm excited about new parts for the car....who isn't.
Stopped at the dealer and had my car configured for the spare key that I built with the housing from Suncoast and the blade from Keysinthepost. My local dealer does have a very clean shop!
Afterward I dropped the car at a well-respected local shop to get tires mounted and every fluid replaced, plugs, coils, fuel filter, and serpentine belt, so I'm at a good baseline to start my ownership.
Looked at the pictures of the progress of my bumper cover respray. Too many blemishes that were bothering me as well as the plate holes for the front plate that isn’t required here warranted the paint job
Awesome, installing the springs was super easy and the slightly lowered look is great. Added some answers below.
Originally Posted by BLU997
Hi Skube,
I have H&R lowering springs that i'm itching to install (same car as yours). I have already bought a front bump steer kit from Pelican, and based on what I can glean from the 'listers collective think, I may need rear links like you. * I was able to get one side within spec, but the other side would not, and after paying for 2 alignments I wish I would have just put the adjustable links in from the beginning. I did not put an adjustable bump steer kit, but didn't think about it honestly. And haven't had enough time behind the wheel to notice, but have long trip coming next week so maybe Ill have to get a third alignment in 2 months... haha!
I assume your ride height is lower than stock, could you actually feel by the seat of your pants, the rear end moving around differently due to lowering induced rear bump steer? * It is lower than stock, I have Techart springs and put in the thickest rubber isolators to get the least amount of drop, essentially 0.75" front and rear, and I am very happy, I didn't want more than 1.00"; before the adjustable toe links I could feel the rear acting up and it felt like it was dragging due to too much toe, now it is much smoother.
What is your chosen wheel center to guard height after lowering on your coil-overs?(as a guide for comparison when I lower mine) * Not sure...
By adjustment, how much length did you have actually add or subtract from the standard OEM rear toe link length? * Not sure, I just set the adjustable ones to the same length as the OEM ones and then let the shop adjust as needed.
Did you stick to OEM toe settings, or something a little more "racy". * I gave the shop the following goals:
Front Camber: -0.6 - -1.1
Front Toe: 0.00 - 0.04
Rear Camber: -1.2 - -1.5
Rear Toe: 0.08 - 0.12
The shop ended up closer to factory, but within my ranges, going for lower tire wear; no autocross at this time.
What brand rear toe links did you go with? * Tarrett
BTW I like your Quickjack too. (want) * Just got them last year, and love them, I should have bought them sooner! Worth the money; it is great not having to spend 45 mins jacking up my car and worrying about bending it. And I use it on all of my other cars. I can get my 911 up in less than 10 mins.
Sorry about this, I know it sounds a bit like a game show quick fire quiz, but hey, I'm excited about new parts for the car....who isn't. * I was just as excited, it was a long journey that started last Oct, just under a year and I am finally back not he road; clutch started the saga.
Now I am onto my next project, fitting a turbo spoiler to my Carrera; love it or hate it I am excited!
Installed new spark plugs on my 997.2 C2S, at 4 year interval. Took about 4 hours total. Biggest part of the job is removing and reinstalling the the side mufflers. Otherwise a straight forward job thanks the the instructions on this forum. Thanks guys!
09-07-2021, 03:57 PM
Installed leather covered fuse box cover
