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If I am not mistaken, the failure mode of a syncro is sporadic at first, as you have described, then slowly turning to expensive grinding noises. I had an issue in a truck once where it wouldn't make any noise, but wouldn't shift into second under any circumstances but double clutching. After awhile, it failed completely.
Once you have the linkage sorted, best way to test is to simply repeat what you did earlier, and if there is resistance, or it won't gate, try double clutching.
Grinding noises are HELL! In my GTR at Road Atlanta it popped out of gear, super weird since it’s a DCT, went back to check for codes and nothing. Went back out and did two ‘slow’ laps, all good…. Got back to do a timed lapped… BOOM… that grinding noise from hell and it only got louder as I was trying to make it back to the pits. All I could hear were the dollars flying out of my account.
I've gone through a clutch or 2 but nothing major with transmissions, knock on wood.
After playing around with the cable adjusters, I'm not sure they do much other than change the position of the shifter. The shifter moves quite a bit beyond the range of cable adjustment once disconnected.
I've gone through a clutch or 2 but nothing major with transmissions, knock on wood.
After playing around with the cable adjusters, I'm not sure they do much other than change the position of the shifter. The shifter moves quite a bit beyond the range of cable adjustment once disconnected.
Since the OEM cables are fixed length (between the transmission cable mounting point and the shift levers on the transmission), all you will notice is the change in shifter position. Numeric/CAE have length adjustment at both the shifter and transmission. When I installed the Numeric cables I adjusted the shifter positioning first, and then engagement at the transmission.
Originally Posted by QwikKotaTX
Does anyone know if the 997.1 intercoolers are worth upgrading to? Similar to 997.2 units?
996/997.1 intercoolers are both 2.25" core thickness vs the 3.15" core on the 997.2 (and the 997.2 has better overall design; end tanks, fin density, etc.). The only difference between 996/997.1 I believe is the location for intercooler mounting pins.
I do have a set of do88 intercoolers for sale (brand new) in the marketplace and am also in TX.
Since the OEM cables are fixed length (between the transmission cable mounting point and the shift levers on the transmission), all you will notice is the change in shifter position. Numeric/CAE have length adjustment at both the shifter and transmission. When I installed the Numeric cables I adjusted the shifter positioning first, and then engagement at the transmission.
996/997.1 intercoolers are both 2.25" core thickness vs the 3.15" core on the 997.2 (and the 997.2 has better overall design; end tanks, fin density, etc.). The only difference between 996/997.1 I believe is the location for intercooler mounting pins.
I do have a set of do88 intercoolers for sale (brand new) in the marketplace and am also in TX.
Thank you for the replies to both questions. I did see your ad but am on a tight budget.
bought a few things
FVD fuel filter relocate and flex pipe plenum/hoses...when you drop engines lots, you appreciate flexible hose over hard pipes LOTS, airflow is the bonus, fuel filter relocates to a smarter location away from engine heat and easier to replace
Sachs 487 P.P., ...764 works well, but something has a slight itch in the pedal when hot so it's all coming out and trying out a 487 this round... stock 996/997 Sachs P.P. beside it for a gt3
It's odd that it's not every time. I would think if it was a synchro it would be consistently hard to get into 1st but I don't know the mechanics behind it. Shifter flex on the other hand could make it less consistent. I also have not messed with the left to right adjustment linkage. Not sure how that relates to the forward gears either but has to be part of the equation obviously.
Folks are mentioning "grinding" symptoms as related to the fancy triple cone synchromesh ( whatever that means ) but you can have worn or rounded dog rings in the 1/2 gear set without any noise at all. For example the dreaded and thankfully ancient "2nd gear popout" malady. There's no "grinding" or sound associated with the "popout" it just "pops" and usually when rolling on a downhill grade. You can hold your hand on the shifter to prevent it from popping out. Until it gets so bad that no amount of finesse with keep it in second under heavy load. But I've never heard of anyone ever letting it get that bad. Or that there were other engagement issues like into first. That's always been a cable issue ( what's the last thing someone did ) and sometimes simply old gear oil not doing its job.
My guess is like some others. Cables not adjusted properly. Good luck.
01-08-2024, 03:04 PM
