powdrhound

The straps are identical on the 764 and 487 so in theory they should hold the same pressure. The 487 is essentially a 997GT3 4.0 pressure plate beefed up with heavier straps by Sachs Motorsport for greater holding power. Like the 4.0 GT3 plate, the 487 is a bolted pressure plate designed for greater rpms. The 764 is a riveted pressure plate more suspectible to bursting at high rpm. The 487 can NOT be used with a DMWF, only the OEM 964RS or Cup LWFW.

From a practical standpoint, the 487 seems to be smoother and a touch lighter feeling than the 764 plate. Don't know why, maybe it's stiffer / truer due to the bolted design. I have run the 487 with the OEM Cup LWFW and both the sprung 4.0 7GT3 disc and also the Cup 4 puck sintered disc. With the lightweight Cup 4 puck disc it's a killer track set up that you can beat on all day and can be shifted considerably faster than the sprung GT3 disc. The Cup disc is easier on the synchros. The 487 is a killer pressure plate for both street and track application and well worth the extra $400 to $500 over the 764.

Here is the 487PP / Cup LWFW / Cup disc track set up and the clutch in action.

powdrhound

The raised bolt heads on the 487 interfere with the thicker DMFW.

docwyte

So the 487 with the 964RS lwfw is probably a good combo for a car setup like mine?

QwikKotaTX

2 questions:

Is there any issue with leaving the engine running while refueling?

Any harm to leaving the A/C on when turning the engine off? Some vehicles need the evaporator core warmed back up to avoid musty smells.

mrdstr

@993GT are you planning on engine out, or will you pull the gearbox separately? I had a hard enough time getting the gearbox spline lined up and back on with the engine out, not to mention getting the release fork shaft back in with the bearings, that I question how folks do a tranny only drop. Any wisdom to share?

993GT

I always pull engine and trans as an assembly, worth the small amount of potential extra time to make sure it's done totally right/retain sanity lol

Capt. Obvious

Leaving the engine on while refueling won't hurt anything, but it could cause you to throw a code for a large evap leak. It won't put the car in limp mode or change how it drives, it will just need to be cleared.

I've never heard of there being any problem with leaving the AC turned on when you shut the down the car or fire it back up. The car has control over the compressor anyway, so if it was something to worry about the car would just override your on/off selection.

QwikKotaTX

Thank you. If I haven't gotten in to boost I just turn it the engine off when refueling.

For the A/C, one vehicle I had could be damaged if the core was left pressurized but it may have been internet BS. The core being wet from our humidity here is another matter but just turning off the compressor wouldn't fix that, it would need the fan running for quite some time to matter.

2fcknfst

So, can he do it?

2fcknfst

Cheers! If I can get organized this year, I'll get it all put together.

ernbu

He is looking into it. I’ll follow up on Monday if he doesn’t email me before.

powdrhound

Yes. It works fine with the 964RS LWFW which is a slightly heavier version of the Cup LWFW.

powdrhound

It's substantially faster to just drop the gearbox and leave the engine in. Helps if you have a boroscope to allow you a peek into the bell housing to make sure all is lined up. Doing it the first time, it's probably easier to drop the engine and gearbox as a whole but once you've done it a few times, leaving the engine in and just sliding the gearbox off is much quicker.

2fcknfst

Sounds... 'hopeful'.

ernbu

Would this be applicable to us tip guys? Or since it’s just bigger and heavier it’s better to drop the whole package?