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- Wash/clay bar/polish and swirl remover with buffer
- Replaced sloppy eBay shifter with Ben's shifter and machined side lever
- Wired up a battery tender to the right front radiator inlet (huge PITA)
- Detailed frunk area
- Did the ziptie tension trick on driver's side window regulator (minor improvement)
Delvac 75W-90 came in yesterday. Hoping first gear reluctance goes away with fluid change.
It's pretty straightforward. Best advice is to use a marker on the glass where it sits in the channel, otherwise you'll have to adjust it after.
If I can add, mark the position on the lower frame of the window regulator. It is slotted and this is the adjustement of the glass tension on the door seal..... Also , new regulator will come with two stops, remove the top one for the turbo .....
If I can add, mark the position on the lower frame of the window regulator. It is slotted and this is the adjustement of the glass tension on the door seal..... Also , new regulator will come with two stops, remove the top one for the turbo .....
Those marks at the bottom are essential! I do Window position manually. I don't fully tighten the screws which fix the Window Glass and shift the glass to its perfect position when the door is closed by hand from outside.
Then carefully open the door and tigthen up the screws. This ia also how they do it at the Porsche Dealer Garage.
I'm also working (playing) with window regulator due to loose cable. Window lower only by 1/8 of an inch when door handle switch activated....Solution? I bought a new regulator but while waiting for delivery I am trying the bicycle brake lever adjuster 6mm instead of the green plastic bushing on each side of the lower part of the regulator...
I did this "bicycle adjuster" fix several years ago on my drivers side window, has worked perfectly ever since. If the window isn't operating correctly due to a bit of cable stretch (very common), it is a great solution!
I did this "bicycle adjuster" fix several years ago on my drivers side window, has worked perfectly ever since. If the window isn't operating correctly due to a bit of cable stretch (very common), it is a great solution!
Dangit. I should have been paying closer attention to this thread. I just tried the zip tie trick which only made a minor difference. It's not a huge ordeal taking off the door panel but not what I would call fun.
I could not reach the cable area up high where another area of the regulator is but did see a spot on the lower right near the speaker that has a similar interface. Are people using 2 of these bicycle cable adjusters?
I did this "bicycle adjuster" fix several years ago on my drivers side window, has worked perfectly ever since. If the window isn't operating correctly due to a bit of cable stretch (very common), it is a great solution!
Funny , I had the old regulator on my workbench and came with the same solution! I just order some 6mm adjuster because the ones I got are too big. Later I will try to install them on the old regulator.... The new "Uro" that I've received from Amazon is installed. I came to the conclusion, it is important to get both "up" stop to contact at the same time or that probably will cause a cable stretch on a long term....
I know I don't post much here but, wanted to to thank Rennlist members for giving me the courage and info to change my coils and plugs. I am pretty handy and maintain all my cars and trucks , but this looked pretty scary at first. I used the updated beru coils (thicker) and bosch plugs. I did not remove the bumper or intercoolers on my 2002 996 turbo. Another member mentioned, that if you could see the screws holding the coils in place, you could remove them. I did remove the inner fender liners and removed the screws and cap nuts to the heat shields so I could move them as necessary for access. I do have a 2 post lift and a huge assortment of tools. So, driver's side was aprox 2 hrs. 3rd plug and coil some what difficult so I pulled the boot off that coil for positioning , then pushed boot back on. I found on some plugs very easy to use some fuel line over the plug to get it in the hole and started. Passenger side first and last plugs not too difficult at all. The middle plug access was a challenge but still got it done. Closer to 3 hours here taking my time. I did this over 2 days, taking my time and trying different tools. Overall, start to finish, including removing tires, liners,and heat shields, about 6 1/2 hrs. I managed to put everything back in place. One small problem on driver's side was getting the outside heat shield back in place because of the way I bent it. My coils and plugs were original at about 54K miles. Just started having an occasional misfire on #2 when really pushing it. I would get a flashing cel, then the back off, and everything would be fine. Also found a coil connector plugs insulation boot was not even in position to protect against moisture.
Dangit. I should have been paying closer attention to this thread. I just tried the zip tie trick which only made a minor difference. It's not a huge ordeal taking off the door panel but not what I would call fun.
I could not reach the cable area up high where another area of the regulator is but did see a spot on the lower right near the speaker that has a similar interface. Are people using 2 of these bicycle cable adjusters?
I posted about the 'adjuster mod' a while back, I'll see if I can find it and edit in a link.
I used just one adjuster, in the lower right (drivers side, would be lower left passenger side), near the speaker. I just went to the service department of a local bike shop and got a few sizes of adjusters that were just spare parts on their bench. Tried to give them a few bucks for them, wouldn't take it.
I looked at my notes, I did this fix in March of 2018, so 5+ years and still working great without further adjustment.
----------------------- Window fix 101:
Took some slack out of my window regulator cable... Did the bicycle cable barrel adjuster trick and seems to be working like new. Quite simply just a slotted bicycle brake style cable adjuster that I slipped over the cable and threaded into the existing cable stop to make the cable tension a bit tighter and adjustable.
Window worked pretty well before, all microswitches good, no bad noises, but the front of the window just didn't drop quite as much or as quickly as it should when you lifted the inside or outside door handle.
Yup, could have put in a brand new regulator, but I've heard the aftermarket regulators can have the cable tension problem right out of the box and the factory regulator is $350 or so, and really everything looks in great shape on the regulator other than the slack cable, so we will see how well this works, perhaps it will work as well and last as long as at least an aftermarket regulator...
Overall, start to finish, including removing tires, liners,and heat shields, about 6 1/2 hrs. .
Taking off the intercoolers and rear bumper would've saved you at least 3 hours, probably more for this job. Rear bumper comes off in ten minutes, intercoolers come off in about the same. Then you have full, unimpeded access to everything...
Hey @PFBZ, if you remove the regulator assembly from the door and put adjusters on both ends wouldn't it operate like new if everything else is fine? Sure would be cheaper like you say assuming the only thing wrong with the lifter is slacked cables. Thanks for you update above, very helpful.
Hey @PFBZ, if you remove the regulator assembly from the door and put adjusters on both ends wouldn't it operate like new if everything else is fine? Sure would be cheaper like you say assuming the only thing wrong with the lifter is slacked cables. Thanks for you update above, very helpful.
No need to remove the regulator to add the adjuster, just do it in place. And if I recall, the cable is a loop, so no need to do two adjusters.
Don't overthink it... It's just a cable that gets a bit of stretch and a somewhat poor design not having a way to compensate for stretch. Imagine having to replace the derailleur on a bicycle every time the cable stretched instead of being able to adjust it??? Add the adjuster.
It will take far longer to find an adjuster in the right size and to remove the door panel than to actually thread the adjuster into the plastic and fix the actual problem which can be done in minutes.
Took her for a very long drive. Got a very bad vibration at 150kph for the from right. Tire pressure were all about 5psi low. Topped them up and the vibration moved to 200kph and it's hard to tell where is coming from. I'll rebalance all the wheels. Tire noise is lower now but not as quiet as the RS4 or the other 996 with is newer Pirellis. There's lots of meat on them but they are about 5 years old.
I think I finally got the rear suspension set up properly. No more bounce and twerk.
To my surprise she handled pretty good in torrential rains without the front diff. Other cars pulled over but she could throw water and keep her footing.
Respect the Porsche engineers.
I looked at my notes, I did this fix in March of 2018, so 5+ years and still working great without further adjustment.
----------------------- Window fix 101:
Took some slack out of my window regulator cable... Did the bicycle cable barrel adjuster trick and seems to be working like new. Quite simply just a slotted bicycle brake style cable adjuster that I slipped over the cable and threaded into the existing cable stop to make the cable tension a bit tighter and adjustable.
Window worked pretty well before, all microswitches good, no bad noises, but the front of the window just didn't drop quite as much or as quickly as it should when you lifted the inside or outside door handle.
Yup, could have put in a brand new regulator, but I've heard the aftermarket regulators can have the cable tension problem right out of the box and the factory regulator is $350 or so, and really everything looks in great shape on the regulator other than the slack cable, so we will see how well this works, perhaps it will work as well and last as long as at least an aftermarket regulator...
Thank you! I see 7mm and 8mm adjusters available online but not 6mm. I will keep looking.
I put zip ties at the lower left and lower right on the drivers side. It seems to work sometimes but not always. The main problem is when I shut the door. The window does not stay down. I'm pretty sure the switches are working fine.
09-20-2023, 01:18 PM
