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Thanks for the info.
I had replaced the accumlator last winter as it falied, shortly thereafter I bought a BBI slave and still have debating on whether or not I will go that route in concern that I would not like the clutch feel. When I do have the clutch work done, I would have that installed if I keep it.
Car is mainly street driving might see an occasional DE (<2/yr as my boys keep me pretty busy). Out where I live there is not a ton of stop/go traffic.
Happy to try and help and I too have shared your current considerations!
I remember when that BBI unit was first offered some years ago, and so many jumped at the chance to avoid the tap/drill bell housing method(??) to approximate the 996 GT2 "unassisted" clutch setup. But anecdotally I have had friends use that BBI slave delete? thing on theirs, with mixed results. I' have heard of them failing also. I really am skeptical of aftermarket parts like that, and so have always just dealt with the assisted clutch ( and the accompanying and multiple accumulators slaves/masters over the past 15 plus years ) and chalked up the inherent shortcomings of the OEM "assisted" setup as simply part of the decision to stay with a very "streetable" ( read in traffic driven ) clutch.
If I were to go and modify for the unassisted clutch I would opt for the "proper" method to modify it, and also go with a LWFW setup. But I never felt the need. Though having driven a few with LWFW, there's no question in my mind that LWFW is the best for the platform. Quicker faster revving and better! But marginally and depends I think upon the primary uses for the car.
I'm pretty sure that's coming, right after the robots take over and rule the world...
I agree as I would never have been able to so easily compile and post all that info! I think the robot neglected to mention some associated parts but that's just my wanting everything to be "new" if going to al the trouble of R&R. The only thing I would leave as "old" on the clutch replacement, would be the hydraulic fluid line! But If it looked ok and was not crimped!
I wonder if it would liven up the low end throttle response on a tiptronic by going RWD?
He emailed me a drawing to fill out some details. I’m going to start a thread tonight or tomorrow because I have no idea where to find those measurements.
The good news, he is looking at what is out there already and if it could fit with some modification or if a brand new build is needed. This is the furthest ive gotten with anyone so I consider it a huge plus.
Doesn't the accumulator really only effect the clutch pedal stiffness with the engine off? I just did the clutch switch zip tie trick to avoid that ankle breaker.
Pretty much, yes. But once it's on its way "out" when it fully fails it will puke Pentosin from the slave given they are virtually connected. The whole point of the accumulator as I've always understood it? was to maintain ease of clutch engagement prior to, and when starting the car. But the clutch would always work fine with the engine on, even if the accumulator was on its way "out". Until it would really fully fail has been my experience. I jumped the clutch switch long ago as I hated having to engage the clutch pre ignition to start. Since I did, I have never had an accumulator fail, and prior to that had replaced at least 3(?) if my memory serves.
I agree as I would never have been able to so easily compile and post all that info! I think the robot neglected to mention some associated parts but that's just my wanting everything to be "new" if going to al the trouble of R&R. The only thing I would leave as "old" on the clutch replacement, would be the hydraulic fluid line! But If it looked ok and was not crimped!
Does anyone have a set of silicone lower intercooler pipes laying around? I need a set with 2 1/2" intercooler inlets with a standard size turbo outlet. Thanks.
Do you need the couplers, or just the straight tubes?
If just the tubes, I think I may have a set - I'll check tomorrow when I get to the shop.
So what is the preferred set up for Turbo retaining a DMFW? With the plan to mod my car with tubos, injectors, and tune, I am assuming my 40k mi clutch will not hold this for long or at all...
I've been surprised that my stock clutch with ~40k miles on it has held up to 550rwhp no problem. I assumed I'd have to replace it in short order but it held all last season no problem. Street driving, on the race track, etc.
So you might just want to send it and see what happens.
When my clutch finally starts to slip I'll do an engine out because I need to address the coolant pipes too.
Thanks for the info.
I had replaced the accumlator last winter as it falied, shortly thereafter I bought a BBI slave and still have debating on whether or not I will go that route in concern that I would not like the clutch feel. When I do have the clutch work done, I would have that installed if I keep it.
Car is mainly street driving might see an occasional DE (<2/yr as my boys keep me pretty busy). Out where I live there is not a ton of stop/go traffic.
I was very interested in the BBi setup until I felt it in my friends car. BBi claims it has a lighter clutch pedal feel than the GT2 setup, but it doesn't.
At that point I'd much rather have the Porsche GT2 setup because parts are available everywhere vs the BBi setup, which you can only get from them, and is frequently out of stock
... having both in the Garage .... servo assisted clutch vs brute force in the GT3, I can contribute that driving the GT3 in stop-n-go traffic is a RPIA
In general, lifetime of the Clutch highly depends on the driving skills and appropriate usage. You can easily fry a brand new one to death on a single track day.
I have a perfect condition 997.2GT3 DMFW. Came out of my 19K mile street use only 2010 GT3. It's a direct drop in to the 996TT gearbox. It's lighter than the standard 996TT one and perfect for those that want something lighter than the standard DMFW but don't want to go to an undampened LWFW.
Last edited by powdrhound; 01-13-2024 at 01:10 PM.
I've been surprised that my stock clutch with ~40k miles on it has held up to 550rwhp no problem. I assumed I'd have to replace it in short order but it held all last season no problem. Street driving, on the race track, etc.
So you might just want to send it and see what happens.
When my clutch finally starts to slip I'll do an engine out because I need to address the coolant pipes too.
Thanks for the suggestions Doc. What mods to you currently have that gives 550 WHP?
01-12-2024, 04:27 PM
