993GT

not sure it's possible to pull a Tip out separately at all... full assembly

vtec_

Can you provide a price if they do a group buy?

I wonder if it would liven up the low end throttle response on a tiptronic by going RWD?

jcc0016

So what is the preferred set up for Turbo retaining a DMFW? With the plan to mod my car with tubos, injectors, and tune, I am assuming my 40k mi clutch will not hold this for long or at all...

powdrhound

With the DMFW you have to use the 764 which is fine for a street use car. If you are more performance oriented and don't mind a little noise, I would 100% ditch the DMFW.

jcc0016

Thanks. Does anyone have a parts list of everything I should source to do this? Do I only need to replace the clutch, PP, TOB, and FW?

Lazurus

Others may offer differing opinions, but if you're replacing the clutch and keeping the shared pentosin assisted hydraulics, my suggestion would be to swap out the slave and accumulator at the same time. Even considering the master cylinder too. I've gone through a few clutches and nothing worse than having to re-do stuff for not having swapped out "old for new" clutch components. Sometimes I have found that old parts paired with new ones, are not an optimal match so you take your chances. Remember also, the clutch slave is "usually" thought of as a wear item, let alone the accumulator which is definitely prone to fail, as they occasionally do. Five years is about what they ordinarily last. Again, others may differ in their experience. Re the DMFW vs the LWFW option. As noted above, for a purely street driven car and/or stuck in city traffic, the DMFW is by far the quieter choice. If a faster revving dual duty car with a bit more chatter/noise is what you desire, and you won't be bothered? Then by all means. Go with a LWFW setup.

2fcknfst

You know Lazurus, sometimes when I read your posts I cannot help but wonder if you are AI in your writing mannerisms.

2fcknfst

From Chat GPT:

Does anyone have a parts list of everything I should source to do this for my 996 turbo? Do I only need to replace the clutch, Pressure Plate, TOB, and Flywheel?


ChatGPT
ChatGPTPerforming a clutch replacement on a Porsche 996 Turbo involves several components, and it's important to have a comprehensive parts list to ensure a successful and thorough job. While the specific parts you need can depend on your car's condition, it's generally a good idea to replace not only the clutch disc, pressure plate, throw-out bearing (TOB), and flywheel but also some other related components. Here's a basic list of parts you may need:

1. Clutch Kit: This typically includes the clutch disc, pressure plate, and sometimes the throw-out bearing.
   
2. Flywheel: It's a good practice to replace the flywheel, especially if there are signs of wear or damage. There are different types of flywheels, such as single-mass and dual-mass, so choose the appropriate one for your setup.
   
3. Throw-Out Bearing (TOB): Replace the throw-out bearing as it experiences wear over time.
   
4. Pilot Bearing/Bushing: This small bearing or bushing supports the input shaft of the transmission and should be replaced during a clutch job.
   
5. Clutch Slave Cylinder: Depending on the condition of your existing slave cylinder, you might consider replacing it.
   
6. Clutch Hydraulic Line: Inspect the hydraulic line for any signs of wear or damage. If it's old or worn, it's a good idea to replace it.
   
7. Transmission Fluid: Consider changing the transmission fluid while you have the transmission out for the clutch replacement.
   
8. Flywheel Bolts and Pressure Plate Bolts: It's often recommended to use new bolts when installing a new clutch and flywheel.
   
9. Alignment Tool: This tool is used to align the clutch disc during installation.
   
10. Gaskets and Seals: Depending on your specific model, you might need gaskets or seals for reassembly.
    
11. Locating Dowels/Pins: Check and replace any locating dowels or pins that may have worn out.
    
12. Release Fork and Pivot Ball: Inspect for wear and replace if necessary.
    
13. Clutch Fork Boot: Depending on the condition, you might want to replace the boot to keep contaminants out.
    
14. Inspection Cover/Guard: Replace if damaged.
    
15. Transmission Mounts: Consider inspecting and replacing if needed while the transmission is out.
    

Before you start the job, make sure to consult the repair manual for your specific Porsche 996 Turbo model and year to get the most accurate and detailed information. Additionally, you might want to check with a Porsche specialist or forum for any model-specific recommendations or issues to be aware of during the clutch replacement process.


Eerily similar....

Lazurus

Not sure whether to thank you or not? But I can say it has been some time since anyone on the inter webs has attributed to me "intelligence" of any kind. Whether artificial or not.

As for me, and in keeping with the purpose of this thread. I am driving my car today after a snowstorm and replacing some LED bulbs in the frunk and engine compartment, a job that even I can handle!

2fcknfst

Well, if you are not AI, I would take that as a compliment.

jcc0016

Thanks for the info.
I had replaced the accumlator last winter as it falied, shortly thereafter I bought a BBI slave and still have debating on whether or not I will go that route in concern that I would not like the clutch feel. When I do have the clutch work done, I would have that installed if I keep it.
Car is mainly street driving might see an occasional DE (<2/yr as my boys keep me pretty busy). Out where I live there is not a ton of stop/go traffic.

jcc0016

Ha! THis is pretty good, now only if it would provide part numbers and can compare prices from difference sources.

2fcknfst

I'm pretty sure that's coming, right after the robots take over and rule the world...

QwikKotaTX

Doesn't the accumulator really only effect the clutch pedal stiffness with the engine off? I just did the clutch switch zip tie trick to avoid that ankle breaker.

LinwoodM

Does anyone have a set of silicone lower intercooler pipes laying around? I need a set with 2 1/2" intercooler inlets with a standard size turbo outlet. Thanks.