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RS Pro 3 Way (high and low speed compression, rebound), spring rates are 900 F and 1100 R, these were decided on as a good starting point based on the tires I will principally be running, NT01, the weight and aero load and my use. Valving is for these rates to be on the lower end of the spring rate spectrum giving me more headroom to go up in rate and little to go down.
Getting into these high end dampers has been kind of a new world @powdrhound gave a lot of good and detailed advice and Angelo at Anze were so helpful. You can buy these setups from both guys and really you can't go wrong with either, both incredibly knowledgeable. The options for high end suspension systems seem endless from a spec standpoint, I just did not have the depth of knowledge or experience to just know what I wanted, especially with such a large financial adjustment meaning I really wanted to get it mostly right the first time. I literally spent weeks talking to a lot of different people getting advice and learning and John and Angelo at Anze were the guys that best paired technical depth and experience to the platform.
Going to a multi adjustable damper means that record keeping and data collection can no longer be an afterthought if I want to get out of them what they have to give. Keeping track of the setup for each session at each track, track temp, tire pressure, temp and wear, how did the car feel, data from the logger and how fast the car ran all give pieces of information that can be put together to indicate how a setup change MAY make the car faster, easier to drive or both.
I'm excited to use them, and the fact that @theprf is also new to a set of 3 ways, @powdrhound 's old Moton setup - I think him and I will have a lot of fun on the working them in side and sharing some data and info to hopefully speed up both our setup developments.
Hi Jason, great to see your project coming along nicely. I'm really happy to see the progression. You are going to be very happy with the JRZs. The 3 way remote canister JRZ RS Pros in my opinion are the best bang for the buck in the high end suspensions available on the marketplace today. Suspension tuning is a bit of a black art and it pays dividends to work with someone that has knowledge in this platform to avoid many potential pitfalls. You're doing it right as you've done your homework. Even small details like choosing specific tender springs for the front and rear can make a sizable difference. I'm looking forward to your impressions once you get the car up and running!
The Motons I sold to @theprf are fantastic damper and come off a friend's 996TT which was replaced with more aggressively tuned 3 way JRZ RS Pros running 1100/1400 lb rates. One thing I would recommend is that you discard the nuts that come with the JRZ mounting plates and replace them with the OEM hardened nuts. The shiny upper mount nuts that come with the suspension are garbage. If you are looking to maximize front tire size (wheels 9.5 or 10") I would also recommend that you set up the front upper mounts in the high camber configuration. This will create the necessary fender clearance. Finally, I would replace the front upper mount monoball bushing (the top one) and replace it with the low profile OEM GT3 bushing which has the integral nut vs. the separate taller JRZ bushing and nut arrangement. The OEM GT3 bushing will allow you to use a single jam nut and will lower the stack height above the top mount which will give you more clearance on the strut dome at high camber settings.
For those curious about JRZs, here is a white-up done by another rennlister who swapped over to 2 way JRZ RS Pros a couple of year ago. He was totally blown away by the transformation. Those were 2 ways and the 3 ways Jason has are an additional step up with another layer of tunability.
Hi Jason, great to see your project coming along nicely. I'm really happy to see the progression. You are going to be very happy with the JRZs. The 3 way remote canister JRZ RS Pros in my opinion are the best bang for the buck in the high end suspensions available on the marketplace today. Suspension tuning is a bit of a black art and it pays dividends to work with someone that has knowledge in this platform to avoid many potential pitfalls. You're doing it right as you've done your homework. Even small details like choosing specific tender springs for the front and rear can make a sizable difference. I'm looking forward to your impressions once you get the car up and running!
The Motons I sold to @theprf are fantastic damper and come off a friend's 996TT which was replaced with more aggressively tuned 3 way JRZ RS Pros running 1100/1400 lb rates. One thing I would recommend is that you discard the nuts that come with the JRZ mounting plates and replace them with the OEM hardened nuts. The shiny upper mount nuts that come with the suspension are garbage. If you are looking to maximize front tire size (wheels 9.5 or 10") I would also recommend that you set up the front upper mounts in the high camber configuration. This will create the necessary fender clearance. Finally, I would replace the front upper mount monoball bushing (the top one) and replace it with the low profile OEM GT3 bushing which has the integral nut vs. the separate taller JRZ bushing and nut arrangement. The OEM GT3 bushing will allow you to use a single jam nut and will lower the stack height above the top mount which will give you more clearance on the strut dome at high camber settings.
For those curious about JRZs, here is a white-up done by another rennlister who swapped over to 2 way JRZ RS Pros a couple of year ago. He was totally blown away by the transformation. Those were 2 ways and the 3 ways Jason has are an additional step up with another layer of tunability.
You can see the low profile OEM GT3 bushing I referenced above in the picture below on my JRZs.
Cheers....
Thanks for both the kind words and advice John - as always, it's much appreciated. I've got so much to learn on how to use these things right, I know its an uphill battle, especially in my principally self-supported setup. That said, I've got a good setup team I can lean on, their specialty is not rear engine but they have a background in getting paid seat cars running very competitively, I know I can get the principle in the car to help for a day if I start feeling lost. I'm also going to streamline the data collection methods to allow for a nice searchable data base of setup, conditions and results to build a log of what did what. Starting point will be to try to work through a setup sweep with minimal environmental changes at my home track. I'll use the data and feedback from those sessions to try to get a baseline down with which I can work a little more intelligently. It's kind of daunting but I think I have started to get my head wrapped around, at least how I would like it to go. That all said, as I'm sure you may be thinking - the variables make turning this into a real process difficult. So, at this point, I'm welcoming the challenge with the expectation, the car will be better than it was and the more I invest in learning, the better I can make it. I'm sure I will spend some time learning the hard way
Appreciate the hardware advice, the mount nuts is an easy one and I will look into the upper mount bushing, I'd like to not have to hack the strut tops for clearance. I had the setup sped'd in the high camber option from Anze and he confirmed, that's how he's going to ship them out.
On another note, Good news, I'll be at the track on Saturday. Bad news, obviously not driving. It sucks to not drive but I am pumped to see many of my North East buddies for the first time in a long time - honestly, hanging at the track with these guys is a huge part of the enjoyment and I'm jacked up to get at least that part going again. For anyone reading within a reasonable drive to Thompson, CT - I HIGHLY recommend coming out and meeting some of the guys that make the North East 996 track scene so ****ing cool. The event runs from 9ish AM to 5ish PM so plenty of time to check it out.
I'm also going to streamline the data collection methods to allow for a nice searchable data base of setup, conditions and results to build a log of what did what.
Intresting...Could you expand on where your at in this thought process? Do you know what hardware you are connecting to. Have you selected a db?
Dont forget time sync is going to be critical to making any of it useful.
Thanks for both the kind words and advice John - as always, it's much appreciated. I've got so much to learn on how to use these things right, I know its an uphill battle, especially in my principally self-supported setup. That said, I've got a good setup team I can lean on, their specialty is not rear engine but they have a background in getting paid seat cars running very competitively, I know I can get the principle in the car to help for a day if I start feeling lost. I'm also going to streamline the data collection methods to allow for a nice searchable data base of setup, conditions and results to build a log of what did what. Starting point will be to try to work through a setup sweep with minimal environmental changes at my home track. I'll use the data and feedback from those sessions to try to get a baseline down with which I can work a little more intelligently. It's kind of daunting but I think I have started to get my head wrapped around, at least how I would like it to go. That all said, as I'm sure you may be thinking - the variables make turning this into a real process difficult. So, at this point, I'm welcoming the challenge with the expectation, the car will be better than it was and the more I invest in learning, the better I can make it. I'm sure I will spend some time learning the hard way
Appreciate the hardware advice, the mount nuts is an easy one and I will look into the upper mount bushing, I'd like to not have to hack the strut tops for clearance. I had the setup sped'd in the high camber option from Anze and he confirmed, that's how he's going to ship them out.
On another note, Good news, I'll be at the track on Saturday. Bad news, obviously not driving. It sucks to not drive but I am pumped to see many of my North East buddies for the first time in a long time - honestly, hanging at the track with these guys is a huge part of the enjoyment and I'm jacked up to get at least that part going again. For anyone reading within a reasonable drive to Thompson, CT - I HIGHLY recommend coming out and meeting some of the guys that make the North East 996 track scene so ****ing cool. The event runs from 9ish AM to 5ish PM so plenty of time to check it out.
I’m sure you are going to be a lot faster once you get all of these done. I like going to the track just to watch the other guys, I go to MSR here in Houston, no I don’t track my car. Jason it would be super cool if you do a you tube video and post it in your channel from your Saturday outing. I’m meeting with a couple of guys at cars and coffee this Saturday. Godspeed.
Update... My car is still at the cage builder and a slight debacle has ensued... just ease back and take it, it will all be fine.
What have I been up to...
Helped @theprf get his brakes bled, always nice to hang out with Aaron. Turbo's are cool, I like them and Aarons car is going to be pretty....pretty awesome.
Got some parts in from The Netherlands.... Apparently that is a country in Europe.
And tonight I helped a buddy with some wrenching on his car... it is what one would call, an ACTUAL racing car. Van Diemen chassis he has done a lot of upgrades to.
I'll be at Thompson next week helping my buddy Chad with his new Mustang race car, It's setup for some SCCA class, don't really know anything about it other than, it sounds really good.
Hopefully my cage builder will be back at work on my cage next week and I may be able to post an update of substance on my car.
I recognize that Power Unit, That is the T-88 SOHC FoMoCo Germany ( AKA Pinto Engine) ...I built many of these back in the 70'-80's ,even set some IRHA world records with them, my 525hp Turbo Verison was featured in SSDI Magazine in 1986. That's a good solid engine design...and can be made even better...
Update... My car is still at the cage builder and a slight debacle has ensued... just ease back and take it, it will all be fine.
Got some parts in from The Netherlands.... Apparently that is a country in Europe.
I've found patience to be a great virtue in this business as everything ends up taking 5 times as long as originally planned. Just nature of the beast especially when it comes to custom projects. You might consider putting the tender springs on top of the mains Jason. This will keep the spring divider plates from rubbing on the threaded area of the shock as which invariably they always do as the tenders compress. Looking forward to continued updates....
I've found patience to be a great virtue in this business as everything ends up taking 5 times as long as originally planned. Just nature of the beast especially when it comes to custom projects. You might consider putting the tender springs on top of the mains Jason. This will keep the spring divider plates from rubbing on the threaded area of the shock as which invariably they always do as the tenders compress. Looking forward to continued updates....
Awesome tip on swapping the springs, that makes a lot of sense - thank you.
Yes - you are certainly right in my case on the planned vs. actual of the schedule. It's gotta end up where I want it, so if it takes extra time, that's what it takes.
Jason, good news is there is no expiration on tracking your car. Mine is still in pieces as they fabricate an end plate for my lsd. No clue when it will be done. But at least I'll be on the track this Friday instructing. But certainly not the same as working the pedals.
Hang in their bud. knowing you and what you are building, it will be worth it when when you are done. Question is what are you going to call it. If DE Jeeper's is GT3ish, what's yours after all the modifications?
04-13-2022, 12:54 AM
