Macca

Agreed John. There are four in our group who probably have enough experience at HD and are potentially solid enough drivers to take on a "hire car" for the 6 hrs endurance event and it would be alot of fun. Chris, Steve, Peter and Paul.

For the rest of us I suspect the 2K cup challenge is a much better option.

John McM

Three strikes - you are out This is the approved car list http://2kcup.com/?p=8

Macca

Ok. Looks like Ive found the answer to the first question. Anyone who had a clubsport license prior to this year is now automatically a M Class license holder. They changed to grades this year and grandfathered it to existing CS License holders. Thats you too Paul.

I wonder if we can get Terry to endorse us for C class some time over the NITT period?

mjg

The 2k Cup guys have been running license classes as part of the intake program, so there are plenty of opportunities to get that sorted before you run a car. PCNZ was also talking about running a license class for the proposed roadsports racing series, but nothing seems to have come of that so far.

Probably best that you speak for yourself there.

Runtothehills

To get rid of water blotches on paint use a rubbing compound like meguiars ultimate compound. http://www.meguiars.co.nz/G17216/

You need a bit of elbow grease with it and you can't let the stuff dry.
This will remove any wax as well and is usually done after a wash and clay (optional) and prepares the paint for a polish/wax.

If you dont want to do a full polish/wax (you will on the new one) spray on ultimate quick wax and wipe off to finish. It will make a big difference with your dark car.

The best way to get rid of water spots on glass is to clay it with a clay kit. Enjoy!

mjg

I'll have to try the clay on glass, getting my windscreen spotless is the bane of my existence, thanks for the tip!

Car looks great Doug, hope you get a good price for her.

Macca

Oops Sorry Matt! Make that 5! Actually add Sean in too. 6.....

O2GO

Thanks Macca,
The standard Boxster is really good on the track once it has its Toyo R888 shoes on. I believe being under powered makes it easier to focus on improving the most important parts - slate breaking and carring as much speed as possible through the corners. Under powered means insufficient power to make up time coming accellerating out of the corners. I did a bit more on-line research and believe my 986, being Jan 2002, engine type m9622-652 g8601-000 porsche is the lower hp 220hp engine, not the 2003 227hp that I had thought. The car has a lot of 2003 features, bit of a hybrid like electric boot releases etc. that were "2003 features". I guess Porsche make incremental changes all the time then save a few up for a "new release".

I took the 987 out through the Hunua area this morning in the wet after a big storm overnight. Was very careful to hold back and just enjoy and get used to the very different power, gearbox and heel and toe breaking feel than the 986. I think having more power is going to introduce a need for a lot more control in and out of the corners than flattening the gas pedal mid corner as I'm used to doing in the 986. The 986 Being under powered and well balanced means there is virtually no need to manage the power, you are either on or off it. I've tried full power a few times in the 987 in the wet and it certainly needs a lot more measured throttle response. The net result should be good for my driving development I hope.

O2GO

Count me in :-)

Maxem

The seat has the standard side brackets that came with it - typical folded metal at a right angle - with a series of holes at the front and slots at the back - probably same as yours. The bolts thru the rear of the bracket were on the lowest slot and there was plenty of meat below the lowest slot to make another slot so I did that. The limiting factor is now the base of the seat shell touching the base of the seat bracket. I raised the front to the third hole from the bottom which tilted the seat back a bit more resulting in a 30mm increase in clearance above my head. It is so much more comfortable now, I was a bit upright before. Sorted. Knowing what I know now, I would have done the seat install myself.

Macca

Hi Mate thanks for that. Yes I understand what you did, I have played around with this a number of times myself. Cant get lower than one from bottom at back (otherwise bottoms out a bit on full extension) and also have it around 2 from bottom at front to give tilt. Picture below of the area you mention for Johns ref.

For some reason I thought you had found a way to lower the factory mounting points for the rails! Sorry, my bad....

O2GO

Thank you for the advice. I took the easy way out and used ultimate quick wax. I will look into the full clay bar polish/wax on the new one after next weekend. That's a new process to me. Cheers.

kiwi 911

Apologies - I should have said C grade license.

John McM

Feeling inadequate compared to Dave's weekend effort, I went into the man cave and played with my 964 seat to see what I can do to modify the seat to give more headroom. I'll post on the 964 forum, but the initial conclusion is that the seat lifts my butt 10cm off the lowest possible point. If I replace the existing spring clips to allow more sink I reckon I can get another 4 or 5 cm headroom. It doesn't fix the 23kg weight or harness issue but it will be cheap if it works.

floatingkiwi

Hey guys with 996's - what oil do you use/what does Contis use?