Any Rennlisters from New Zealand?
^^^ Macca, I would only agree if the cars started in the same condition (i.e 0 hours engine, suspension and box), otherwise you pay restoration costs on the old cars that the newer/faster cars don't incurr.
I am not looking forward to GT3 restoration costs after a few years of doing track days - going to be a $35K birthday I think??
If you have the money and can actually find the cars for sale - smart money would be a late model GT3/4 and then trade out to the next one every 3 years before a top end and box are due??
I am not looking forward to GT3 restoration costs after a few years of doing track days - going to be a $35K birthday I think??
If you have the money and can actually find the cars for sale - smart money would be a late model GT3/4 and then trade out to the next one every 3 years before a top end and box are due??
Agree 100% mate. As my examples I used Daves T, johns 964, my 993 all cars had good 5 figures thrown at them recently, all 6 figure aircooled, all modified/built for track work and all had a gearbox or engine rebuild recently or both. On the GT3 side I used my GT3, Neil's and Nigel's GT3. Nigel's had gearbox synchro S last year and Matt G needs a box rebuild so there are life costs involved. The only life components I included was CL hubs carriers and bearings both axles for 7.2 & 991 GT3. These are lifed at 15000 track km (5 years at 10 tracks a year). So the example ignores provisioning for future lifing of major drive train and engine which would have to be added back in after 4-5 years running this type of track use senario. The newer cars are more complex but parts for the older cars can be hard to find and getting more expensive so it's probably similar.
It comes down to tyre/brake wear and fuel ultimately. The GT3s are 1550 kg with a driver doing 1.13-14 where as the G/T models maybe 1200-1250kg doing 1.17-1.19. The sweet spot for speed vs track day costs is still clearly a nicely set up 964/993 like Johns, mine or your old girl doing 1.16-1.17s for $3-400 more a day than the old timers but 7-900 a day less than a GT3....
It comes down to tyre/brake wear and fuel ultimately. The GT3s are 1550 kg with a driver doing 1.13-14 where as the G/T models maybe 1200-1250kg doing 1.17-1.19. The sweet spot for speed vs track day costs is still clearly a nicely set up 964/993 like Johns, mine or your old girl doing 1.16-1.17s for $3-400 more a day than the old timers but 7-900 a day less than a GT3....
Sebro aesthetics and life
The rust is what I alluded to with 'aesthetics'. My hats came zinc coated, which was a bit of a jarring grey to start with, and has since almost given its all to our Auckland weather over the years. As you can see from the pics below there is a thin ring of rust between the coating and the swept surface that might bother some, but I'm from the go car not show car school of thought so not bothered. I have already costed their replacements nad at about NZ $300 each landed, I suspect that any early wear issues would be more than offset by the savings anyway. The pics also show remaining pad life and the front rotor cracking that has me replacing them.
Rear
Front
Originally Posted by nzskater
Comments had lumped both Zimmerman and Sebro together, noting shorter life due to wear and cracking faster than OEM, with theories of different makeup of metal. Also that they rusted very quickly (but I think this related to Zimmerman?).
Where did you source yours Walt? Race Brakes can get Zimmerman 350mm for the fronts but no source for rears. May just get OEM.
Did some research, cracking over and above that emanating from holes, and rusted hats due to not being coated. Comments made about the cross drilled being literally drilled and not cast, but may not be true.
Where did you source yours Walt? Race Brakes can get Zimmerman 350mm for the fronts but no source for rears. May just get OEM.
Where did you source yours Walt? Race Brakes can get Zimmerman 350mm for the fronts but no source for rears. May just get OEM.
Apparently Porsche ones are better than most but I'll still steer clear of tracking them again. Some more info here if you want (no time to read so 'buyer beware' but looks useful):
http://www.6crew.com/forum/showthrea...d-and-the-ugly
Got mine from Pelicanparts.
I've looked at them, and if I was tracking my car most weekends two piece (and floating) rotors would be the go but for my more limited usage I'd be better to chuck the money into tyres or something.
If I was going that frequently I'd up the rotor size and probably run upgraded calipers.
Seems early orange rebuilds are all the vogue . Here are some pictures of a Aussie mate of mine that took a year. 73 rsr 1100 kg 300 hp and apparently a real handfulhttps://rennlist.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=995107&stc=1&d=1448568034l. Nice looking car . Flared arches Dave?https://rennlist.com/forums/attachme...1&d=1448568034
http://www.carpoint.com.au/all-cars/...D-3713792&Cr=4
^^^ It's not too late JMc.
Although not on this particular car, I seriously reckon you should look at the centre consul delete option. Looks nicer with just the carpet on the tunnel??
^^^ It's not too late JMc.
Although not on this particular car, I seriously reckon you should look at the centre consul delete option. Looks nicer with just the carpet on the tunnel??
^^^^^agree with center console delete, one of the things I never liked about the 'improved' 911's
That car for sale there in the link is the same one in the background of the photo of the orange RSR Neil posted one page back
That car for sale there in the link is the same one in the background of the photo of the orange RSR Neil posted one page back
http://www.carpoint.com.au/all-cars/...D-3713792&Cr=4
^^^ It's not too late JMc.
Although not on this particular car, I seriously reckon you should look at the centre consul delete option. Looks nicer with just the carpet on the tunnel??
^^^ It's not too late JMc.
Although not on this particular car, I seriously reckon you should look at the centre consul delete option. Looks nicer with just the carpet on the tunnel??
I've been very careful to date to only make reversible alterations as I may at some stage decide I no longer like the look I've created e.g. those Carrera decals that took me a while to get sick of.
In future I'll be up-skilling with composites and parts design, but it will be all cosmetic. No console delete as I plan to better use the existing one e.g. an integrated high quality USB charger and audio input in the old cassette holder.
I think you are doing the right thing John. Ive been playing with the look of my car 15 years now and its in its third incarnation. I have a 4th in mind for after I get the engine upgraded. However if at any time I want i can revert the car to 100% factory original as nothing I have done is irreversible and I have everything I took off (except for the 17" wheels aye Doug - first right of refusal on those remember :-)).
There is something wrong with the proportions and angles of that back date. Might just be the wheels but i suspect its off in a few places. Looks like someone has spent some money on it too with manual conversion etc
There is something wrong with the proportions and angles of that back date. Might just be the wheels but i suspect its off in a few places. Looks like someone has spent some money on it too with manual conversion etc
I'm still on my first set of Sebros and have had those 2+ years including the NITT and 4 days of Targa stages out of them. Perhaps the OEMs last longer for moderate use (??) but certainly not when hammered. The original drilled OEMs already developed 3-4 mm radial cracks around those holes after just my first DE day. They grew at each outing and the rotors were toast after only about 60 or so laps spread over a dozen sessions.
The rust is what I alluded to with 'aesthetics'. My hats came zinc coated, which was a bit of a jarring grey to start with, and has since almost given its all to our Auckland weather over the years. As you can see from the pics below there is a thin ring of rust between the coating and the swept surface that might bother some, but I'm from the go car not show car school of thought so not bothered. I have already costed their replacements nad at about NZ $300 each landed, I suspect that any early wear issues would be more than offset by the savings anyway. The pics also show remaining pad life and the front rotor cracking that has me replacing them.
Rear
Attachment 995140
Attachment 995141
Front
Attachment 995142
Attachment 995143
The rust is what I alluded to with 'aesthetics'. My hats came zinc coated, which was a bit of a jarring grey to start with, and has since almost given its all to our Auckland weather over the years. As you can see from the pics below there is a thin ring of rust between the coating and the swept surface that might bother some, but I'm from the go car not show car school of thought so not bothered. I have already costed their replacements nad at about NZ $300 each landed, I suspect that any early wear issues would be more than offset by the savings anyway. The pics also show remaining pad life and the front rotor cracking that has me replacing them.
Rear
Attachment 995140
Attachment 995141
Front
Attachment 995142
Attachment 995143