When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Sand-y, the inside wear on that tire means you need a proper alignment as that is not right at all from street use. Also, are you running door jamb inflation? just checking.
I've had Suncoast Porsche in Sarasota do the most conservative alignment and toe settings each time I had the lowering springs installed. Pointing out that the car will not not be tracked so I wanted miles rather than performance. The rears still have looked like the one I pictured on all three cars after a maximum of 12,000 miles, typically less than that. They say they've dialed everything out as far as they can and tell me to slow down.
Originally Posted by Petza914
Likely she drives differently from you and I and she's running Hankook Ventus Evo2 tires, which probably have a different compound than the Michelins or something similar you run. But, that's why we use these on her car - excellent wet weather performance from the directional tread pattern, good wear numbers for her driving style, and less expensive. Don't get me wrong, they work well for more aggressive driving too, as I sometimes take her car for a blast to make sure everything is working as it should, but the wear numbers would likely be lower if driven that way all the time.
My Nitto Invos last similar mileage to yours, but they're also trying to harness almost 500 HP with rear wheel drive only. That's one of the reasons I'm moving to a 325/30 on my next set with 245s or 255s up front.
Good assumption. Correct or not I've heard and read more than once that Michelins have soft rubber that wears quicker than many others. The picture I posted was of a Michelin PS whatever the rest of the designation was.
Decided on something different last time I needed tires so tried a set of Bridgestone RE-71R. https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...ndard%20Brakes As I said I don't track but I drive pretty hard when having fun on the back roads. Grip is as good or better than the Michelins but they're awfully noisy, even when brand new. Only have about 3,000 miles on them so far so we'll see how they hold up with more miles added.
I've had Suncoast Porsche in Sarasota do the most conservative alignment and toe settings each time I had the lowering springs installed. Pointing out that the car will not not be tracked so I wanted miles rather than performance. The rears still have looked like the one I pictured on all three cars after a maximum of 12,000 miles, typically less than that. They say they've dialed everything out as far as they can and tell me to slow down.
Good assumption. Correct or not I've heard and read more than once that Michelins have soft rubber that wears quicker than many others. The picture I posted was of a Michelin PS whatever the rest of the designation was.
Decided on something different last time I needed tires so tried a set of Bridgestone RE-71R. https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...ndard%20Brakes As I said I don't track but I drive pretty hard when having fun on the back roads. Grip is as good or better than the Michelins but they're awfully noisy, even when brand new. Only have about 3,000 miles on them so far so we'll see how they hold up with more miles added.
For reference, I run 35 F / 40 R on my Invos and 33F / 38R on my wife's Hankooks.
It has been my experience that dealers are often reluctant to go very far outside the factory spec for alignments--sometimes they refuse. This is due to a combination of liability fears and the fact that dealership "alignment techs" are usually just regular techs who have received rudimentary training on how to use the alignment machine.
For example, my wife's E550 cabriolet eats rear tires just like our cars in spite of the fact that she drives like an old lady. I spoke with the dealer's alignment "expert" and he flat out told me that there was no adjustment in the rear camber or toe on her car. That, of course, is completely untrue. ALL modern suspensions are adjustable to some degree. I spoke with my regular alignment guy at a local race shop and he chuckled and said he'd be happy to adjust it for me. His wife drives the same car and he did it on hers as soon as she bought it. He agreed with me that the dealer just didn't want to take the risk of going outside the factory spec.
I would bet Dollars to doughnuts that your rear suspension has more adjustment left in it, but the dealer is unwilling to go any further. Also, Petza is correct (as usual) in stating that rear inside edge wear is due to a combination of camber AND toe--each exaggerating the effect of the other. For street driving, you can take a lot of the toe out. You need to leave a tiny amount, but the factory spec is too much for the street.
For reference, I run 35 F / 40 R on my Invos and 33F / 38R on my wife's Hankooks.
I think the sticker on my door sill specifies 37 F and 44 R. So you're running below that on both cars. I know your wife is getting amazing mileage on her tires and you get similar to what I get but with an additional 100hp. So it seems that slightly under inflating prolongs tire life based on your observations.
It has been my experience that dealers are often reluctant to go very far outside the factory spec for alignments--sometimes they refuse. This is due to a combination of liability fears and the fact that dealership "alignment techs" are usually just regular techs who have received rudimentary training on how to use the alignment machine.
For example, my wife's E550 cabriolet eats rear tires just like our cars in spite of the fact that she drives like an old lady. I spoke with the dealer's alignment "expert" and he flat out told me that there was no adjustment in the rear camber or toe on her car. That, of course, is completely untrue. ALL modern suspensions are adjustable to some degree. I spoke with my regular alignment guy at a local race shop and he chuckled and said he'd be happy to adjust it for me. His wife drives the same car and he did it on hers as soon as she bought it. He agreed with me that the dealer just didn't want to take the risk of going outside the factory spec.
I would bet Dollars to doughnuts that your rear suspension has more adjustment left in it, but the dealer is unwilling to go any further. Also, Petza is correct (as usual) in stating that rear inside edge wear is due to a combination of camber AND toe--each exaggerating the effect of the other. For street driving, you can take a lot of the toe out. You need to leave a tiny amount, but the factory spec is too much for the street.
I don't doubt any of that. What's the remedy though? Find and indy who's willing to ignore factory specs I guess.
I think the sticker on my door sill specifies 37 F and 44 R. So you're running below that on both cars. I know your wife is getting amazing mileage on her tires and you get similar to what I get but with an additional 100hp. So it seems that slightly under inflating prolongs tire life based on your observations.
Maybe. I just look for a pressure that creates even wear across the tread surface. Seems like at higher pressures and these alignment settings I was seeing center wear.
I'm running 33 front and 38 rear on my 2009 4S cab.with Pirelli P Zero Neros. I tried 37/44 but the ride was just too harsh. Tires have less than1K on since mounting but wear seems even, probably too soon to tell. Had 4 wheel alignment done prior to mounting tires and the old Michelins were wearing on the inside like the Sandwedge pictures in this thread. Couldn't get replacement Michelins in my size ( 20 inch wheels) so I went with Pirellis
Last edited by Bomar Shelby; 10-16-2020 at 10:54 AM.
Reason: added info
Took my 2009 4S cab in to an Indy for All Wheel Drive Controller Oil change, rear diff fluid change and PDK clutch fluid change primarily because I couldn't document in the service history that some of this was done at 60K by previous owner and I was rolling up on 80K at 79855. included new ZF pan with filter. Parts $799.50 , labor $560, with tax and fees $1443.95 . Nothing bad noted in fluids removed nor in pan filter media, comment was "all fluids removed looked remarkably good, your car has not been abused ". So maybe some of this was done previously? Anyway feeling some peace of mind regarding my PDK now that this all has been done.
I'm still considering Concord extended warranty I posted info about previously. I have asked specifically if they have covered failed PDK transmissions and whether electronics such as shift rod distance sensor, transmission control unit, temperature sensor, and valve bodies for example would be covered and the answer was positive. Some read through the language of the warranty document (I'm not a lawyer) and interpreted coverage to be for mechanical failures only to the exclusion of electrical component failures as the language is fairly generic . They said the electronic failures would be included in the section headed "High Tech Electronics".. I really wish someone (repair shops included) would report if they have any real world experience with Concord extended warranty. The cost quoted for premium plan with ZERO deductible was less than half of Fideity Platinum (with $500 deductible) so according to the agent ANY PDK failure for whatever reason would be covered (with history of proper maintenance , of course).
I'm not a mechanic nor a DIYer so my knowledge is limited to what I have picked up from the Rennlist forum as to asking the right questions regarding coverage and tried to make sure they understand that PDK failures while rare are typically electronics related as opposed to mechanically related and Porche company policy apparently precludes tear down and repair and mandates replacement (with very few exceptions).
I do not. Although that sounds like a pretty cool idea.
Unfortunately the center console is removed completely today when I put my long-waited Recaro Pole Position ABE seats in. I absolutely love the additional gearbox noise without the center console on top of the Numeric Racing cables. Also this allows me to go for a Rennline shifter riser which is going to make the Numeric shifter the center piece of the interior.
that looks super clean. i'm looking at adding a numeric shifter too and i wish there was a way i can just leave the center dash off so everything is exposed like that, it just looks so good. but mine is a daily so i need the storage space, and leaving those cables exposed probably isnt the best idea..
that looks super clean. i'm looking at adding a numeric shifter too and i wish there was a way i can just leave the center dash off so everything is exposed like that, it just looks so good. but mine is a daily so i need the storage space, and leaving those cables exposed probably isnt the best idea..
Storage space is the box on your far right. If you like the additional noise and how it looks, leave it alone. The cables will be fine exposed. Do what makes you happy. I think its looks cool.
10-15-2020, 02:09 AM
