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Installed the 3pc grill kit from zunsport, shipped from England to Ontario in a two days. Shop-vac'd a bunch of debris out first including a rock about half the size of a marble. Installation was not quite as easy as the 30second YouTube video.
The middle was easiest but I didn't tape as they recommended and caused a hairline scratch from one of the edges of the clip as I repositioned it. I still wouldn't bother taping just be careful with the clips.
The side grills were a pain in the ***. For the first 30 minutes I was convinced that they sent me defective ones and there was zero chance of getting the clips behind the shell. I watched the YouTube install video like ten times times trying to figure out what was missing as he just "pops" them on. Even after I figured out the trick for the first one the second one was almost as difficult. You really have to jam the outerside top corner of the grill into the corner for the grills to fit and I mean really put a lot of brute force to get it into proper position.
Im still undecided if I will take off grills and paint silver fins black. Hard to tell from pictures but from some angles the silver looks good behind the black mesh but other angles not so much.
Really happy with them, were a bit pricey but seem to be pretty good quality, really like the look (makes the front look more menacing) and hopefully will keep giant rocks out from now on.
Yeah, they still have the clips, I haven't attached them yet but even with them not attached the mat hasn't moved a bit. The clips do seem kind of awkward so I'll probably just stick a strip of velcro to the underside of mats and let stick to floor piece that's already there.
I tried that with three different kinds of glue. Super glue, Gorilla and forgot what the third one was. Neither one would make the velcro stick to the bottom of the mat for some reason. That's why I ditched them and maybe that's why Lloyd doesn't do it to begin with instead of messing around with these clips that don't work. All I can think is that the material on the bottom of the Lloyd mats doesn't marry well with glue of any kind. Has to be cheaper to glue two pieces of velcro to the bottom of the mats instead of manufacturing these clips. So has to be a good reason they're doing what they're doing.
WTH, is my car haunted? Because CEL, red exclamation point and message to take car to workshop continued to show even though car was running smoothly, I drove it sparingly over the summer (less than 50 miles) while considering options for service. After car was sitting for a month, I backed it out for cleaning, CEL, red exclamation point, service now and go to workshop still appearing now with FLAT TIRE. Sure enough it was flat, but couldn't see any screw or nail, aired it up and drove to Discount Tire. There was a nail in tread but head had worn off so I couldn't see it. Tire repaired, started car to drive home and CEL, red exclamation point ,etc GONE and car running beautifully. Drove a 50 mile round trip yesterday with no problem. Suddenly at mile 51 CEL, red exclamation point, take to workshop and stumbling, misfiring limp home mode returns. No diagnostic tools at my home. How is it possible to have CEL with smooth running then all warnings disappear with smooth running then all warnings reappear with severe misfiring going on? Car is definitely due for plugs and coils as I'm rolling up on 80K miles so I'm guessing it is a coil problem but do coil failures show intermittently like this?
WTH, is my car haunted? Because CEL, red exclamation point and message to take car to workshop continued to show even though car was running smoothly, I drove it sparingly over the summer (less than 50 miles) while considering options for service. After car was sitting for a month, I backed it out for cleaning, CEL, red exclamation point, service now and go to workshop still appearing now with FLAT TIRE. Sure enough it was flat, but couldn't see any screw or nail, aired it up and drove to Discount Tire. There was a nail in tread but head had worn off so I couldn't see it. Tire repaired, started car to drive home and CEL, red exclamation point ,etc GONE and car running beautifully. Drove a 50 mile round trip yesterday with no problem. Suddenly at mile 51 CEL, red exclamation point, take to workshop and stumbling, misfiring limp home mode returns. No diagnostic tools at my home. How is it possible to have CEL with smooth running then all warnings disappear with smooth running then all warnings reappear with severe misfiring going on? Car is definitely due for plugs and coils as I'm rolling up on 80K miles so I'm guessing it is a coil problem but do coil failures show intermittently like this?
Many part failures exhibit exactly this progression. A fuel pump starts sputtering then runs again, then sputters, then eventually fails. A spark plug fouls where it won't fire then you run the rpm's high enough where it burns through the fouling and gets a spark again, then fouls again, and eventually doesn't recover. Coil packs usually fail due to cracks and first exhibit the behavior when driven in the wet and the electricity and water don't get along well.
Could also be a failing cam position sensor that sometimes detects the cam rotation and sometimes doesn't. It too will eventually fail.
The only way to start troubleshooting this is with a code scanner so you can see the specific error code and message that caused the CELs. Also, if the car hasn't been driven for a couple weeks, the battery could be low and a low battery will cause all kinds of unrelated codes. I'd start with disconnecting the battery (DON'T LATCH THE FRUNK), fully charge it, reconnect it, go for a drive and see what you've got. If the codes reappear scan them and post the codes and messages. To get accurate scans, you need something better than a generic obd2 scanner. There's a Durametric enthusiast version for sale in the marketplace right now (no affiliation).
Yesterday I installed Rennline Semisolid engine mounts on my 997.2 C2S. I used the softest of the three provided inserts (yellow). On a 997.2 this job is extra easy because the top of the airbox can be removed with just 8 little torx screws and a single quick-release on the passenger side. The install instructions in the DIY section of this forum are good. The only difference I noticed on my car (a July 2011 production month) was that the bottom nut securing the mount to the engine cross member was a long hefty Torx nut rather than the standard six-sided nut mentioned in the instructions. Perhaps this was a subsequent design change in the 997.2 era.
Driving impressions so far are exactly as expected (I previously put WEVO SS mounts on my 996, and the effect is similar here). There’s generally a sense of greater connectedness and all-of-one-piece feel to the car, slightly improved shifting precision under load and slightly more NVH in the cabin. One thing I noticed right away is that at low rpms (below 3.5k) the NVH impact is almost non-existent. Above that, the extra vibration/buzz transmitted from the engine to your butt is noticeable. Net-net this is a good compromise, IMHO. After a few months of driving it like this, I probably will have forgotten what the original factory hydraulic mounts were like from an NVH perspective, but I will still be enjoying the extra crispness in the corners and shifts. Thumbs up. Assembly for a 997 requires the longer studs (provided) and red loctite (not provided). ignore the little stainless nuts, these are used only stacked for torquing the stud into the top of the mount assembly. Old mount removed. Notice the long torx nut. I reused this on re-install. part number of the factory mounts Job done.
OK here's a goofy one: This weekend I added gloss black trim to my headlights. A purely cosmetic mod for sure, but for the time being I think I’ll keep it. If I get sick of it, it will take about 10 seconds to remove. The pre-cut vinyl rings are available here: https://kistudios.com/product/porsch...eadlight-trim/ Installation is easy but fussy. I got one side done quickly, but the other took me three tries and 30 minutes to get right. Care and attention are needed to avoid wrinkles near the outer edges (which would look terrible if allowed to dry). Once done correctly, the dry/cured result looks close enough to paint that a casual observer would think it was stock. These are terrible pics of the before & after. I’ll get some better ones eventually. Thoughts from the peanut gallery?
OK here's a goofy one: This weekend I added gloss black trim to my headlights. A purely cosmetic mod for sure, but for the time being I think I’ll keep it. If I get sick of it, it will take about 10 seconds to remove. The pre-cut vinyl rings are available here: https://kistudios.com/product/porsch...eadlight-trim/ Installation is easy but fussy. I got one side done quickly, but the other took me three tries and 30 minutes to get right. Care and attention are needed to avoid wrinkles near the outer edges (which would look terrible if allowed to dry). Once done correctly, the dry/cured result looks close enough to paint that a casual observer would think it was stock. These are terrible pics of the before & after. I’ll get some better ones eventually. Thoughts from the peanut gallery?
BEFORE
AFTER
Sorry, but I think it looks better before. The outline look like a woman’s eye liner.
Yesterday I installed Rennline Semisolid engine mounts on my 997.2 C2S. I used the softest of the three provided inserts (yellow). On a 997.2 this job is extra easy because the top of the airbox can be removed with just 8 little torx screws and a single quick-release on the passenger side. The install instructions in the DIY section of this forum are good. The only difference I noticed on my car (a July 2011 production month) was that the bottom nut securing the mount to the engine cross member was a long hefty Torx nut rather than the standard six-sided nut mentioned in the instructions. Perhaps this was a subsequent design change in the 997.2 era.
Driving impressions so far are exactly as expected (I previously put WEVO SS mounts on my 996, and the effect is similar here). There’s generally a sense of greater connectedness and all-of-one-piece feel to the car, slightly improved shifting precision under load and slightly more NVH in the cabin. One thing I noticed right away is that at low rpms (below 3.5k) the NVH impact is almost non-existent. Above that, the extra vibration/buzz transmitted from the engine to your butt is noticeable. Net-net this is a good compromise, IMHO. After a few months of driving it like this, I probably will have forgotten what the original factory hydraulic mounts were like from an NVH perspective, but I will still be enjoying the extra crispness in the corners and shifts. Thumbs up. Assembly for a 997 requires the longer studs (provided) and red loctite (not provided). ignore the little stainless nuts, these are used only stacked for torquing the stud into the top of the mount assembly.
Old mount removed.
Notice the long torx nut. I reused this on re-install.
part number of the factory mounts
Job done.
Nice work on the mounts also shopping for mounts were the old mounts stretched?
Thanks for the reply Petza. Battery is new and I keep it on a trickle charger when I'm not driving the car so I don't think it is part of the problem. Damp weather is not a factor either. I don't have any equipment to scan and pull the codes which would reveal what is the problem. It's just so frustrating to have an intermittent problem and never know what is going to happen when you turn the key.. I didn't think CEL could self cancel but it sure enough did only to return later. I can't drive the car the way it is so I guess I'll have to flatbed it somewhere for diagnosis and remediation. I also didn't think coil failure could be intermittent.
Nice work on the mounts also shopping for mounts were the old mounts stretched?
Perhaps slightly? My original mounts had 8 years and 28k miles on them and were still performing as expected (i.e. smoothing all traces of vibration at the cost of disconnecting the engine's mass from the car, resulting in secondary wallow during hard transitions). The new mounts may have shrunk the gap between my exhaust tips and bumper by 0.5 to 1 inch, but that's probably the least noticeable aspect of this change in my case. But for stock mounts that are noticeably sagging, it would be a different story.
09-14-2019, 01:12 AM
