When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Eight months after installing my Numeric shifter, I finally got the Numeric cables put in my Turbo. Huge difference, way more than the shifter alone. Apart from the variable throw length, the improvement from just the shifter was pretty subtle for me (frankly, I lean towards "not worth it"), but these cables feel like steel rods are connecting me straight to the transmission. Very race car and mechanical.
There is definitely some whine and noise, particularly at lower speeds where tire and road noise don't drown it out. Once I'm over about 30mph, it's only noticeable if listening intently. Coasting in neutral also seems to produce a bit of a rattly sound. I don't mind at all, and in fact welcome the added vintage sports car racket.
Great mod for sporty drivers trying to summon the Ghost of 911s Past, but I wouldn't advise the cables if you value more of the plush, quiet GT side of the 997.
Edit: Might be valuable to mention that I have a yellow Function First transmission insert installed which may contribute to the noise and feeling a bit, plus Wevo engine mounts.
Edit 2: A few days later and I've properly "finished" the install by putting the shift boot back on and to my surprise it toned the noise down a notch. Still there, but the leather does seem to absorb a bit of the higher frequency buzz. I'd say the added noise isn't at all distracting or annoying, rather it seamlessly blends with the Mezger's backdrop - sort of like how an orchestra sounds fuller when you add some extra upright basses. The cables sadly didn't totally cure my balky cold 2nd gear issue, common in these cars, so I guess that's just down to the transmission's design. Fwiw, I also swapped out my weighed shift **** back to OEM because the lighter weight combined with the new cables provides a lot more feeling compared to the heavy **** absorbing and numbing it all.
Overall, highly recommend the mod, as I'm even closer to that "modern day 930" than ever. Now, to debate a lightweight flywheel...
Eight months after installing my Numeric shifter, I finally got the Numeric cables put in my Turbo. Huge difference, way more than the shifter alone. Apart from the variable throw length, the improvement from just the shifter was pretty subtle for me (frankly, I lean towards "not worth it"), but these cables feel like steel rods are connecting me straight to the transmission. Very race car and mechanical.
There is definitely some whine and noise, particularly at lower speeds where tire and road noise don't drown it out. Once I'm over about 30mph, it's only noticeable if listening intently. Coasting in neutral also seems to produce a bit of a rattly sound. I don't mind at all, and in fact welcome the added vintage sports car racket.
Great mod for sporty drivers trying to summon the Ghost of 911s Past, but I wouldn't advise the cables if you value more of the plush, quiet GT side of the 997.
Glad to read this. I got a very good deal on a new set of Numeric cables in the Marketplace about a year ago for whenever my stock cables crap out, but already have the OEM SSK, so was planning to just go with the cables and sounds like they will be a great combination with the SSK.
What did the leather parts cost? How were they listed. Those look like good winter upgrades
If me the side covers were $50 shipped, a steal. Overhead was $250.
Just want the door spears, fuse box, visors. Maybe the door triangles for the mirror adjustment. Not willing to pay oem prices and some of the prices from secondary leather people are good, but I like a deal.
I finally got around to doing my 60k PDK service on my '09 997.2 C2 (57k on odo). I decided to use Driven's DCT oil instead of the OEM Pentosin. According to Driven, their DCT has a very high quality base oil (formulated by Chevron) which is better at resisting shear at high temperatures. Cost was not factored in this decision, but at $14.50 per qt (Summit Racing) it was much more economical than I had expected. I replaced the pan and hardware with OEM parts.
The work was done at Swiss Motors in LA and although they don't normally do this service using customer supplied parts, they kindly cut me some slack this time as I just had my alignment done there a month ago. I was told all the oil was used per spec, and they ran the clutch pack calibration as well.
I was surprised how much this service dramatically changed the feel of the PDK. Shifts are lightening fast where as before, comparatively speaking, there was a discernible "lag". In Sport Mode (and only this mode) I was frequently getting a very abrupt 2->1 downshift when I'd let the transmission shift by itself (manually downshifting would not exhibit the same feel). Thankfully, the calibration seems to have removed that almost completely.
Unless advised otherwise, I would really consider doing the the clutch pack calibration every 30k miles given the massive difference in feel it provides.
I took a quick LA to Vegas run and the car ran like a champ in 99 deg weather. The 3rd radiator and lower temp thermostat I installed a while back seemed to be working very well. Coolant temps only went above 175 a few times when I was pushing it hard (aburst speeds over xxx mph), oils temps ranged from 175-190.
Now I just need to address a front end suspension "clunk" I get (coming from both sides) when I'm driving at low speeds over uneven pavement. I'm guessing LCAs or sway bar end links I probably should have replaced when I did my coilovers.
I took a quick LA to Vegas run and the car ran like a champ in 99 deg weather. The 3rd radiator and lower temp thermostat I installed a while back seemed to be working very well. Coolant temps only went above 175 a few times when I was pushing it hard (aburst speeds over xxx mph), oils temps ranged from 175-190.
Unless the 997.2 is different from the 997.1, you can ignore whatever is being displayed by the coolant temp gauge. It's heavily buffered and an idiot light disgusted as a gauge. It will read 175 whenever the coolant temp is between 170 and about 215. Use the oil temperature as an actual measure of engine temp. The coolant temp gauge in the 996 was an actual gauge but that was changed in the 997.
Nice choice on the Driven DCT. I use their lubricants whenever they have the right spec fluid available.
Bought a sport wheel from a member recently and thought I'd try at a "GT2 RS" wheel homage. I may get it wrapped in Alcantara in the future.
Well, tried my hand at vinyl wrapping last night... great results until the morning when the vinyl lifted in the tight corners... there was a lot of complex curves and I don't know if it will hold up on a hot day in my car.
The "5D Carbon" vinyl is pretty convincing as a carbon fiber proxy. Certainly nice to experiment since its not permanent. May have to do it again. I think ultimately, I may have to pony up for a Macarbon center trim.
Unless the 997.2 is different from the 997.1, you can ignore whatever is being displayed by the coolant temp gauge. It's heavily buffered and an idiot light disgusted as a gauge. It will read 175 whenever the coolant temp is between 170 and about 215. Use the oil temperature as an actual measure of engine temp. The coolant temp gauge in the 996 was an actual gauge but that was changed in the 997.
Nice choice on the Driven DCT. I use their lubricants whenever they have the right spec fluid available.
Hey Petza, I've heard/ read that as well however in LA traffic my coolant and oil temps were actually reading higher prior to the 3rd radiator install (+5-15 deg). Oil would consistently read 200 deg and now it's 175-185 on most days. Coolant also shows a difference. Also the gauges do increase value when you pushing the car hard. I got the oil up just under 200 a few times on my Vegas run, but it came back down quickly and stabilized once I laid off the throttle. So they do work, but I'm not sure at what granularity.
I just recently purchased a 2008 cab s and wanted to change the outer ring of the sport chrono gauge. Does anyone know how to do that or when I can find instructions to do that? Thanks!