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Hmm. Clearly I have to stop 'thinking' and start drinking. I looked over the PCM 2.1 connections and it points out that the speaker connection (plug B) is used when there is no amp. As I have bypassed an original ASK amp, that means this connector's signal would have been a terminated there (I'm guessing). My aftermarket amp is already spliced into the speaker loom via the output side, so I'm surmising that it only requires an output from the HU, which will be accomplished by customising an 8 pin connector etc.
There's a wide range of knowledge and experience on this thread alone and I for one, appreciate the time and effort that many have been putting into explaining to people like me. Sorry about the internal monologue type posts as I try to figure this out!
Cheers!
Since you have an aftermarket amp, you can drive it directly from the low level signal output from the PCCM unit, that the previous units did not have before. The low level L & R signals come out of the 12 pin connector where the MOST box would be connected. Aftermarket amps have no need for the MOST box converter, as the purpose of the MOST box is to take the analog signal and convert it to a fiber optic signal for a MOST amp. You do this by building a custom 12 pin connector with RCA outputs direct to the L & R output of the unit. See below.
Circled in red below is the above connector with the RCA output that drive my aftermarket amps directly into their low level input, without the need to drive them from the brown speaker level output, which would normally require signal attenuation. This also bypasses the internal amplifier of the unit, or a cleaner output signal.
I would assume both of you have originally the CDR24. Cars with the CDR24 do not have the dual FM diversity antennas of the Bose or ASK systems, so thus there is only one FM antenna behind the driver's side A pillar. If you were to look behind your radio, and you find only a single black antenna cable, you have the single antenna configuration and you only need to do the below to restore your FM reception.
THIS IS AN UPDATE TO MY ORIGINAL POST ON FIXING THE ANTENNA RECEPTION ON SINGLE FM ANTENNA CARS
Please disregard my original post on reworking the antenna cables by the antenna module at the passenger footwell area. On cars with the single antenna cable, do not use the antenna bypass loop at the antenna module, just leave everything alone with the existing antenna system. Also do not use the antenna adapter that comes with the kit that plugs into the back of the PCCM unit. Just plug in your existing antenna cable into the upper antenna port as shown below. Compared with the previous reconfiguration, the FM reception is even better and just like before. Using the antenna bypass loop at the antenna module will result in a complete break of the antenna loop so thus no reception. And using the antenna adapter that goes between the unit and the antenna cable will result in the antenna plugging into the lower antenna port, and thus almost no FM reception. Only the upper port is the primary antenna input port.
This is super helpful information--thank you! @svandamme this may be good to include in your excellent guide.
Only one pair of RCA outputs from the MOST plug, correct? How does the PCCM+'s fader function work to balance sound from front to back in that configuration?
I was contemplating buying a brown plug and two sets of attenuation adapters to run a standard analog amp. Is the sound so much worse with that setup to offset the fact you don't have a functional fader using the MOST plug?
I'm sure you are being sarcastic.. But the answer stands
Step 4 clearly mentions it :
Step 4 Disconnect the FM convertor box, or whatever it does not present on CDR24 cars, must be done on all others
When in doubt, check in the foot well, if you have the box or not.
and also in the troubleshooting FAQ
Trouble shooting and FAQ:
Q No FM <<<<<< A either buggered up your antennas (but unlikely to have 2 broken ones) >>>>>orrrrrr, forgot to install the coupler in STEP 4
So its beyond me why anybody would ask , I didn't do the coupler on my FM box, mentioned step 4, and my FM is not giving me good reception
For everyone complaining about the low microphone sensitivity of both the internal and external mics, the following is the fix to increase the sensitivity and output volume of both mics. Depending on where you set the values the mic output should increase by 100% to 300%, enough for the other party to hear you better. To do this you need to go into the Developer Menu and increase the mic settings under the menu item MicVolume. To enter the Developer Menu, go to CAR > SET > SYSTEM. Find 'Version Info' and press and hold down for 15-20 seconds, which will bring up the below menu:
Select 'MicVolume" which will bring up the below screen and their default values:
Increase the values of either or both the external and internal mic to the below values for both PGA and UPLINK:
If you want to test and adjust the values while you are on a call, make a call through the PCCM, and while on the call, press the HOME button, then go to the Developer Menu by pressing CAR > SET > SYSTEM > press "Version Info" for 15-20 seconds, till the menu comes up, then commence with adjusting the MicVolume settings. You can use a second cell phone to receive the call, but put its mic on mute while you speak to the PCCM mic, and listen to yourself on the second phone, so you don't get reverb from the speakers back in to the second phone.
I'm sure you are being sarcastic.. But the answer stands
Step 4 clearly mentions it :
and also in the troubleshooting FAQ
So its beyond me why anybody would ask , I didn't do the coupler on my FM box, mentioned step 4, and my FM is not giving me good reception
FWIW, looking at the language in your guide the FM box CAN be present on some CDR24 cars. My sound package plus CDR24 GT3 has it. Maybe it's CDR24 with neither SPP nor Bose that don't.
Since you have an aftermarket amp, you can drive it directly from the low level signal output from the PCCM unit, that the previous units did not have before. The low level L & R signals come out of the 12 pin connector where the MOST box would be connected. Aftermarket amps have no need for the MOST box converter, as the purpose of the MOST box is to take the analog signal and convert it to a fiber optic signal for a MOST amp. You do this by building a custom 12 pin connector with RCA outputs direct to the L & R output of the unit. See below.
Circled in red below is the above connector with the RCA output that drive my aftermarket amps directly into their low level input, without the need to drive them from the brown speaker level output, which would normally require signal attenuation. This also bypasses the internal amplifier of the unit, or a cleaner output signal.
This is great info for anyone that is non-Bose and using an aftermarket amplifier - interesting option here. You could use the 12-pin cable that comes with the kit and just don't plug in the MOST box, but modify the cable to splice in the RCA's into the line.
For my application, I actually did use the brown speaker level outs - and this worked fine for me without using any line level converter (just went straight into the line inputs on the amp). Steve's noted approach here may be cleaner, but for what it's worth the tapping the speaker wires from the brown connector worked perfectly fine for me.
Since you have an aftermarket amp, you can drive it directly from the low level signal output from the PCCM unit, that the previous units did not have before. The low level L & R signals come out of the 12 pin connector where the MOST box would be connected. Aftermarket amps have no need for the MOST box converter, as the purpose of the MOST box is to take the analog signal and convert it to a fiber optic signal for a MOST amp. You do this by building a custom 12 pin connector with RCA outputs direct to the L & R output of the unit. See below.
Circled in red below is the above connector with the RCA output that drive my aftermarket amps directly into their low level input, without the need to drive them from the brown speaker level output, which would normally require signal attenuation. This also bypasses the internal amplifier of the unit, or a cleaner output signal.
Interesting, but that would be two channels only. Currently I have a Rear LR channel and a Front LR channel .. I had originally thought I was making an 8 pin adapter to plug into the open ISO connector, to send out those two channels to the amp ...
I got an email from Pelican earlier today about that--if you care, Pelican Parts price is higher than Gaudin Porsche where I bought mine, FWIW. No affiliation with either vendor.
I got an email from Pelican earlier today about that--if you care, Pelican Parts price is higher than Gaudin Porsche where I bought mine, FWIW. No affiliation with either vendor.
Pelican ~$1,500
Gaudin ~$1,400
Elsewhere ~$1,300 (check around maybe your local dealer has best deal going)
I've done the standard .2 wheel upgrade (b4 the paulLi adapter was released allowing for the 991.2 wheels on our cars.
- For the .1 997 cars wanting to upgrade to a 997.2 wheel - a new steering wheel module will be needed, part number ending in 289.0X. Keep in mind for heated steering wheel cars will need a diff steering wheel module.
- for the 997.2 cars wanting to upgrade to a 991.2 wheel, the paulLi adapter will be needed
- coding can be easily done via a foxwell530 unit (durametric pro wont work) - simply need to enable 'multiFunction wheel on' in the steering module.
id recommend trying to find a used .2 module on ebay - it will be less coding stuff to deal with (ie. steering wheel angle sensor calibration)
Originally Posted by svandamme
seems quite expensive for what it does
Definitely not cheap, but the multifunction wheel definitely helps re keeping keeping hands on the wheel - plus they are designed very well from an aesthetics perspective. Once you get used to it , it is tough going back imho.
Interesting, but that would be two channels only. Currently I have a Rear LR channel and a Front LR channel .. I had originally thought I was making an 8 pin adapter to plug into the open ISO connector, to send out those two channels to the amp ...
Originally Posted by mchrono
Only one pair of RCA outputs from the MOST plug, correct? How does the PCCM+'s fader function work to balance sound from front to back in that configuration?
I was contemplating buying a brown plug and two sets of attenuation adapters to run a standard analog amp. Is the sound so much worse with that setup to offset the fact you don't have a functional fader using the MOST plug?
Based on my findings (from the pin-out charts, the most harness and even the most box circuitBoard itself) - the truth is that the pccm+ does NOT provide true 4 channel output when outputted to the bose cars. It is true 2-channel stereo output ONLY.... which is similar to any other android chinese radio.
The *fader* itself is emulated via 2 additional wires carrying digital receiver + transmitter (cross-wired) signals that calculates a front/rear ratio to create the fader (in function only). It is not to be mistaken for 4 independent audio channels. I was disappointed to realize this - as I was expecting a 4 channel surround system, and I understand that is what customers paying 1500$ for this unit are expecting for this type of money.
With that said, the 8-pin 4 channel audio coming out of isoConnector B would be the only true *potential* 4 channel audio out coming from the pccm+.
Originally Posted by bxstrCA
Hmm. Clearly I have to stop 'thinking' and start drinking. I looked over the PCM 2.1 connections and it points out that the speaker connection (plug B) is used when there is no amp. As I have bypassed an original ASK amp, that means this connector's signal would have been a terminated there (I'm guessing). My aftermarket amp is already spliced into the speaker loom via the output side, so I'm surmising that it only requires an output from the HU, which will be accomplished by customising an 8 pin connector etc.
The 8 pin - brown isoConnector B outputs the 4 channel output from the pcm's internal amp. I believe on the oem pcm 2.1 the voltage here is 4v - and based on @maxw 's testing ... on the pccm+ it is approx 1.5v (same as all the rest of the Chinese android radios) - no resistance conversion / line out converter will be needed when plugging into an aftermarket amp in this case.
Originally Posted by bxstrCA
To be more clear: Where are the speaker connections into the radio? #3 is CANBUS, #2 is Power and #1 are the speakers (not used).
1) brown isoConnectorB - this is used for askAmp (non bose) cars only - it is 4 channel analog audio output (powered from the pccm/pcm) output. For cars with oem bose, you simply wont find a brown connector in your car.
3) isoConnectorA (20 pin) - contains pins for canbus (2 pins, 1+3), oem mic (for telephone optioned cars - pins 7+9), various on/off pins (gateway system etc. - pins 2+20), reverse camera control pin (for cayenne - pin 19). The vast majority of the pins will be empty.
2) isoConnectorC (8 pin) - pccm constant power, ground (term 30 + term 31), control power (acc power). The vast majority of the pins will be empty.
other the the iso audio connector (brown), connectors A + C have lots of pins missing.
I believe this was due the canBus system reducing the need for pins such as reverse gear, headlamp illumination (dimming/night mode) etc etc
03-12-2023, 10:01 PM
I looked over the PCM 2.1 connections and it points out that the speaker connection (plug B) is used when there is no amp. As I have bypassed an original ASK amp, that means this connector's signal would have been a terminated there (I'm guessing). My aftermarket amp is already spliced into the speaker loom via the output side, so I'm surmising that it only requires an output from the HU, which will be accomplished by customising an 8 pin connector etc.
