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I don't think those will work... you need ones that are slotted on the side so you can slip them over the existing cable.
I don't know that these are the right thread size, but this is the style you want.
I just received the ones I ordered and you are correct, they are not slotted so they will go back (they were listed as a pair but they sent a bag of 25). I just ordered 8mm slotted so will see if they are to big.
I just received the ones I ordered and you are correct, they are not slotted so they will go back (they were listed as a pair but they sent a bag of 25). I just ordered 8mm slotted so will see if they are to big.
I think 8mm is going to be too big as well. I think those are more for motorcycles.... I don't know why it is so hard to find bicycle type slotted cable adjusters online, and I wish I measure the thread size of the ones I used years ago, but from memory, I'd say no bigger than an M6 (or close to that in standard thread). The exact thread isn't really important, as your just cutting threads into the plastic bushing when you screw it in, but obviously if it's way too big it isn't going to work.
Non-OEM is what I was referring to by $100 regulators. Also mentioned OEM ones were difficult to find, hah.
I ordered the 7mm adjusters. If those don't fit I will check one of our bikes to see if they are smaller to test.
Originally Posted by pfbz
You don't....
I suppose of course you could cut the cable somewhere, slide the adjuster on, and try and re-connect the cable with a crimp or something, but I wouldn't want to try it...
Go to a friendly old-school bicycle shop, talk directly to the bike mechanic. He probably has a jar full of adjusters he's taken off various bikes, grab a few sizes and tip him what you feel appropriate.
I've heard the same thing about non-OE regulators. Not worth the time it takes to install them, and OE regulators have become astronomically expensive, over $1,000 list and north of $750 even from OE parts discounters.
Replaced a main fuel hose and check valve from the Y pipe to the assembly outlet. Let the car sit for 3 days and boom it started right away. I also installed the AEM 340 fuel pump. That hard nylon fuel hose was easier to work with than I thought. Simply boil the hose and connector water then with gloves slide them together. The new check valve was even easier because it was tapered. New hose clamps and the whole thing took less than 30mins.
I hope I dodged the $400 new FP assembly bullet.
Replaced a main fuel hose and check valve from the Y pipe to the assembly outlet. Let the car sit for 3 days and boom it started right away. I also installed the AEM 340 fuel pump. That hard nylon fuel hose was easier to work with than I thought. Simply boil the hose and connector water then with gloves slide them together. The new check valve was even easier because it was tapered. New hose clamps and the whole thing took less than 30mins.
I hope I dodged the $400 new FP assembly bullet.
I will need to do something like this soon. On the 5th track session yesterday it was breaking up and wouldn't run over 5500 RPM at WOT in any gear so I quit the session. Fuel was just over 1/2 full. I added 5 more gallons and let it sit for another hour and it was fine in the 6th session. Either my AEM 340 fuel pump is starting to act up or there may be something wrong with one of lines or jet pumps in the tank.
also I replaced that failure prone U hose with a short connector hose. Don't think that U had any performance properties and it's easier to re/re the pump assembly.
I'd love to replace all the rubber hoses with that submersible nylon hose but since it's corrugated in the middle cut it wouldn't work.
Can anyone enlighten me?
This is a brand new item from a mass manufacturer. Porsche never produced them theirselves. They also purchased those from one of them.
This is sold with warranty.
The difference in replacing the whole regulator compared to installing the adjuster only is minimal.
And (what I find is most important) ... by installing the Adjuster, you are working on the Symptom, not on the root cause.
Anybody who finds the Adjuster method working fine for him - perfect! However, after having replaced at least 4 of the mentioned regulators, I can't confirm them failing soon again.
I kindly ask for apologies if someone should feel annoyed by my view as engineer.
If the root cause of the failures is cable stretch, replacing the regulator does not address the root cause, as the cable on the new regulator assembly will also stretch and the problem will return...eventually. It is simply a counter measure to address the problem statement. Every well designed cable based system includes a threaded adjuster to compensate for cable stretch. As does every chain system with the use of tensioners. Adding the threaded adjuster is a cheap and easy counter measure if the end user has the skill and ability to adjust it. I don't think one is better than the other, but one is certainly cheaper. That's my engineering opinion.
Gave Roger at CMS the green light to machine my gearbox for the GT2 clutch slave upgrade. Hoping to fetch refreshed gearbox from CMS when I trip to Vegas for F1 in mid November.
Sorry just jumping into this regulator conversation but does that part fix the window that no longer slightly opens when you open the door?
If you see the window move slightly but not enough, then yes. If there is no window movement or noise other than the door handle, there could be a problem with the micro-switch in the door actuator.
Well, life has most certainly been getting in the way over the last couple of months, more so than I would have liked.
But today, I managed to put it aside for about half an hour and made the long run into the office, and it was well worth it in the early morning cool of about 13c - the car loves that type of dense air.
09-28-2023, 05:57 PM
