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I had some brackets fabricated for all the aftermarket stuff I'm throwing on my car. I have extras of these so if you're interested in anything shoot me a message.
Fuel Filter Bracket - Made for the Radium fuel filter with heatsink mount; need to be RWD to use this setup. 8 gauge 5052 Al, raw finish. I have 1X extra of these with necessary hardware.
Catch Can Bracket - Made for the Radium universal catch can; need to have electric power steering to use this setup. 8 gauge 5052 Al and anodized black. I have 3X extra of these.
Amplifier Bracket - Made for a Kenwood X502-1 amp (although I could definitely have this made with adjusted mounting holes for any amp that fits in this space). 12 gauge 5052 Al, raw finish. I have 1X extra of these with necessary hardware.
Did front diff and tranny fluids yesterday. Tranny is pretty simple and no panels to remove. Fluid came out clearish red so I doubt it's the factory fill. Front on the other hand was a greenish color with slight white look to it. Most likely never been changed. I think the axle seals are weeping due to the layer of dirt stuck to the front diff but no obvious drips. Panel clips are a pain.
I used a small 12V oil pump which helped quite a bit but it's a mess either way. With the pump and high viscosity fluid I could work on other things while a bottle drained. It moves ATF much faster.
The lift bars I fabbed worked somewhat ok. On the drivers side I had to remove an underpanel that covers the brakes lines and other things for clearance. The passenger side bar fits between the side skirts and the PS steering lines, but just barely.
Last edited by QwikKotaTX; 12-19-2023 at 11:48 AM.
I use a Motive power fill, it works really well. For the panel clips use a small flat blade screwdriver and gently pull the tab of the clip out.
Lmao, I just bought a Schwaben power bleeder but never even thought about it. The 12V pump worked quite well after I attached are larger suction hose than I had on for ATF. It would darn near empty the bottle. I will be gentler next time with the tabs. Luckily I had bought 2 spares. Thanks.
I use a Motive power fill, it works really well. For the panel clips use a small flat blade screwdriver and gently pull the tab of the clip out.
This technique works well for me as well. I also have a bunch of these clips as well as the plastic 10mm nuts in a drawer in my toolbox for those that are frustrating...
Lmao, I just bought a Schwaben power bleeder but never even thought about it. The 12V pump worked quite well after I attached are larger suction hose than I had on for ATF. It would darn near empty the bottle. I will be gentler next time with the tabs. Luckily I had bought 2 spares. Thanks.
The Motive Power fill is different than the Power Bleeder. The Power fill can be hooked up to an air compressor and also holds far more fluid. It doesn't pressurize like the power bleeder, it just pushes fluid into whatever you want.
It's great for my Land Cruiser as changing the fluids in the diffs and transfer case is a chore since they hold so much fluid
This technique works well for me as well. I also have a bunch of these clips as well as the plastic 10mm nuts in a drawer in my toolbox for those that are frustrating...
At this point I've got spare speed clips, spare torx hardware, spare clips, spare plastic nuts, spare front axle bolts, etc.
Whenever I work on the car I replace any missing or damaged hardware that I find. At this point all the hardware should be there and like new
12-16-2023, 03:58 PM
