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i've always felt my car was super smooth at low speed.
Likewise.
But you never know when an owner thinks his car is operating normally (low speed driveability issue being "normal) when in fact it isn't operating normally (hence my request for clarification.)
But you never know when an owner thinks his car is operating normally (low speed driveability issue being "normal) when in fact it isn't operating normally (hence my request for clarification.)
i've read his threads and comments and have no doubt he "knows" his car. i just thought it curious as well.
still waiting on my delivery from UPS and USPS... have been showing out for delivery since Friday and still nothing... we have progress though... today the UPS truck actually stopped in front of my house, the driver went to the back, and then he drove off... sigh... maybe tomorrow he will actually make it to my door...
I bypassed the N249 valve so that the diverter valves are operated with a direct vacuum line to the intake manifold.
[I'm editing this after studying the diagram a bit more...]
I'm not sure I completely understand the operation of the N249 valve, but here is a start. If somebody knows more, please fill in the blanks...
If I understand correctly, all the N249 valve does is allow the ecu to switch between:
1) Vacuum, taken from the plenum and the vacuum accumulator, through a check valve to prevent boost, and
2) Boost pressure, taken from the plenum but run through an opposite check valve to prevent vacuum.
So the OEM setup allows the ECU to command the N249 to open the diverters and dump boost by opening the diaphragms to the vacuum accumulator, even when the manifold might still be under boost pressure? I think I read somewhere to possibly control overboost if the control line to the wastegates came off, cracked, or otherwise failed preventing the wastegates from seeing boost pressure?
Failure analyzed the 996TT electronic hood actuator
Ever wonder why these Porsche hood actuators get weaker and weaker with age? .. and why they don't pull as hard the 2nd, 3rd ... time ya hit that actuator button that didn't work the first time??
Since I'm sitting at home and new parts are taking forever to arrive, I figured I would take that hood actuator apart and find out why it was so darn weak now. After doing a massive tear down, including disassembling the motor in there. I found a small thermal resistor inside the motor, with tarnished contacts on it, did a light sanding and tinned them with a soldering iron .. after that the resistance value across that resister dropped from over 5 ohms to less than 2 ohms. Reassembled it all, and POW!! Stronger than EVER!! $70 saved.
Also re-routed my manual release cable through a small 1/8" hole I drilled in the aluminum bumper, so cable would be easily accessible behind the tow hook cover.
if you have the skill to figure out how to tear this down, you can easily do this fix. Where I rerouted my frunk release cable, 1/8" hole angled toward latch assembly, the end gets stowed in the tow hook threaded hole.
Last edited by foxkart61; 04-29-2020 at 07:17 PM.
Reason: added photos
bravo. that hood actuator fix is right up there with the "bend the contacts on the front blinker contact points" fix when they stop working.
i re-routed my emergency release cable years ago also. just in case. speaking of the hood. i once found my "decklid"(?) shocks stopped working quickly as the frunk came crashing down upon me. i saw stars lol
So the OEM setup allows the ECU to command the N249 to open the diverters and dump boost by opening the diaphragms to the vacuum accumulator, even when the manifold might still be under boost pressure? I think I read somewhere to possibly control overboost if the control line to the wastegates came off, cracked, or otherwise failed preventing the wastegates from seeing boost pressure?
That is correct. One of the reasons people override it on Audis is because the computers control of the diverter valves can be a little glitchy. This isn't something I've heard any complaints about on this forum, but I just figured I'd try it out. Another reason for trying is I've noticed a lot of people running mafless setups and aftermarket Y-pipes don't seem to utilize the factory control anymore.
04-27-2020, 02:47 PM
