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When the stock turbos were replaced by K24s from techart some weeks ago, the garage had problems getting some oil pipes removed from the Thermostat / Water Pump housing.... so they simply installed a new one.
I was a bit shocked how expensive this piece of alloy is, so I took the old part and carefully removed the stuck pipe ends this weekend .... just in case someone needs one... here's a spare.
They made you buy a whole new water bracket? I have before taken parts from the shop to a machine shop, had them repaired and brought back to the shop.
Got my #16 check valve installed, now it holds pressure!!
I still have a leak though and it loses about 10 lbs in 3 minutes..I can hear it hissing. It sounds like its coming from behind the plenum but I cannot seem to locate it.
Anyone have any ideas?
The system will never be airtight. You will always have a certain amount of bleed down at the valves for example. If you hear audible hissing externally then find it. Go after the location of the sound or you can spray some soap water on all the connections to help isolate it. In many cases, the hissing you hear is internal to the engine, at the valves for example. 10lbs in 3 min is beyond good, hard to believe actually if you are starting at 20-23psi.
The system will never be airtight. You will always have a certain amount of bleed down at the valves for example. If you hear audible hissing externally then find it. Go after the location of the sound or you can spray some soap water on all the connections to help isolate it. In many cases, the hissing you hear is internal to the engine, at the valves for example. 10lbs in 3 min is beyond good, hard to believe actually if you are starting at 20-23psi.
So, I actually just went out and properly timed it instead of just walking away and glancing at it (it was late last night)
Starting at 20 psi, it will drop down to 5 lbs in 2 mins and 28 seconds. I did it 3 times and averaged it out.
It does sound like it is internal, its more on the passenger side where as before when the old check valve (#16) was in, you could audibly here it and it wouldnt hold any pressure at all whatsoever.
zip tie all lines, especially the FPR vac line. Like said above, you'll always get bleed off, just should be slow and you shouldn't hear loud/audible hissing. Try soapy water or a smoke test.
So, I actually just went out and properly timed it instead of just walking away and glancing at it (it was late last night)
Starting at 20 psi, it will drop down to 5 lbs in 2 mins and 28 seconds. I did it 3 times and averaged it out.
It does sound like it is internal, its more on the passenger side where as before when the old check valve (#16) was in, you could audibly here it and it wouldnt hold any pressure at all whatsoever.
Yeah, that's more like it. I tested my engine just prior to install last week and starting at 23 psi it drop to 15 in about 30-35 seconds and then holds there bleeding off very slow over the next couple of minutes. There are zero leaks on the outside only inside. This is perfectly normal. I deleted the #16 check valve and most of the other external vacuum lines. I only have a single line from the plenum to the diverter valves.
Yeah, that's more like it. I tested my engine just prior to install last week and starting at 23 psi it drop to 15 in about 30-35 seconds and then holds there bleeding off very slow over the next couple of minutes. There are zero leaks on the outside only inside. This is perfectly normal. I deleted the #16 check valve and most of the other external vacuum lines. I only have a single line from the plenum to the diverter valves.
Other things to check if you really care too. My throttle body clamps were both worn and would slip when trying to snug them up. I was losing a bit there. Also, the venturi tube (y valve) was leaking from its seams. It was brand new. My original valve looked to be one piece without these end caps the new ones have. I wound up using jb weld to seal it up. That and the new hose clamps for the t body fixed my issues.
Yea I know the car has motec, I still thought it needed an FPR? I wonder if you can use their pressure sensor in place? And run a returnless system with a pump controller and eliminate the regulator? That would be pretty trick.
The car came with a UMW pocket tuner and its on the stock map according to the flasher thingy, but its hitting 1.1 bar of boost on a flat road where it would normally boost .7.
Fackk
Gotta check the wastegate cracking pressure next im guessing but the underody is pretty much rust free as it was a Washington State car
06-11-2024, 11:15 AM
