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The internal seal can fail and cause the issue w/ no leakage at the master.
Yes, Thanks for the tip. There are so many ways these can fail. My hope is that it is limited to one of the hydraulic components. Be great if the hydraulic line just got crimped or mangled somehow. No fluid migration at the master OR an obvious leak. Level at the reservoir ( cold ) is fine also. I began to wonder if somehow the pivot pin where that gold "c-clip" connects where the master assembly meets the pedal assembly might have come loose?! I never noticed them "loose" before but it's not like I fiddle with it often under the dash. But I have read of them popping out(?) Perhaps I just have a "new to me" issue.
I have always had some kind of warning or clue that a hydraulic component was rapidly heading south. Not this time! Waiting on a flatbed tow now...
The only time I needed a flatbed; I was driving, went to shift and clutch just went right to floor. Something was able to hit the underside, left rear and ripped the clutch hardline. I replaced with a braided stainless line up to the left front wheel well.
The only time I needed a flatbed; I was driving, went to shift and clutch just went right to floor. Something was able to hit the underside, left rear and ripped the clutch hardline. I replaced with a braided stainless line up to the left front wheel well.
Exactly! what a pal suggested might have happened. I can only hope that's "all" it is!
I took the stock end to a local hose shop and had it made. They kept the stock union so I could always go back to OEM if needed. Any hydraulic shop should be able to make it for you.
Yours runs out to 8500 rpm? Are you still making power there?
So much want.
Yeah it felt like it wanted to keep going too I haven't ran it up that high on the dyno yet so I cant say for sure but it didn't feel like it was running out of steam at all, the more it revved the more it wanted but 8400 is the limit for now and redline will be set a couple hundred rpm lower until we get an idea of how the engine is wearing with the extra rpm that I have over the other 4.0s. The time trial/max power map will rev out as far as it keeps making power, but I'll limit it on the lower power maps for longevity. I needed to record some data in the upper rev ranges and test some functions before heading back to dyno to finish up the mapping.
So, when you built this one, you went with the GT3 crank and intermediate shaft?
I see John tears his down every couple of hundred hours (or less?), what is longevity to you in this application?
I'm so jealous, I want one of those so bad.
Yeah I think the only difference in my engine and pwdrhound's current one is my GT3 heads/cams/valvetrain, GT3 intake manifold/plenum, and I have Pauter rods instead of Carrillos.
Same refresh intervals most likely, but 180-200 track hours is a lot of time. We've got lot of extra sensors to monitor engine health on mine so should have a good idea of when it needs a refresh before anything catastrophic happens, plus inspecting oil/filters at change intervals.
The only time I needed a flatbed; I was driving, went to shift and clutch just went right to floor. Something was able to hit the underside, left rear and ripped the clutch hardline. I replaced with a braided stainless line up to the left front wheel well.
That happened on my 911SC when a cable /spring in the pedal cluster broke. I was lucky because I was just leaving my house going uphill. Did a quick U-turn in the road and coasted back downhill while simultaneously pressing my garage door opener. Came to a slow stop back in its regular spot in the garage. Gave it a pat on the fender for not letting me down on the street.
That happened on my 911SC when a cable /spring in the pedal cluster broke. - - - - Gave it a pat on the fender for not letting me down on the street.
It's just that kind of situation that made me think of the pedal cluster, and for some inexplicable reason that I may have just lost that pin at the top of the pedal. Probably not so lucky. The loss of pedal was so "sudden" and with no weird clutch action preceding so it came to mind. I also had the good fortune to have been home when the latest mystery failure occurred. In fact, I'm three for three for failures at home requiring flatbed tows. Some small saving grace.
Yeah I think the only difference in my engine and pwdrhound's current one is my GT3 heads/cams/valvetrain, GT3 intake manifold/plenum, and I have Pauter rods instead of Carrillos.
Same refresh intervals most likely, but 180-200 track hours is a lot of time. We've got lot of extra sensors to monitor engine health on mine so should have a good idea of when it needs a refresh before anything catastrophic happens, plus inspecting oil/filters at change intervals.
Modern day vehicle DAS such as Motec, are sampling at such a high rate over multiple channels, it can really give some fantastic insights into what the engine is doing, and its overall health. So yours is more of a track focused car than a street/track car? 200hrs works out to 600 20 minute sessions... many sessions.