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Check wastegates too. My car had the same issue when I got it and it was because the shop that had worked on it before I owned it had wiped the original tune and replaced with with their "tune" (that was a stock k16 file) and then cranked down the one bar gates to force 1.2 bar of boost.
Other things to check if you really care too. My throttle body clamps were both worn and would slip when trying to snug them up. I was losing a bit there. Also, the venturi tube (y valve) was leaking from its seams. It was brand new. My original valve looked to be one piece without these end caps the new ones have. I wound up using jb weld to seal it up. That and the new hose clamps for the t body fixed my issues.
Thanks, I checked over the whole driver side of the engine bay and it was nice and quiet. My #16 valve was completely shot, I can blow through it both ways so im guessing the ball inside disintegrated overtime or whatever. Its still in there but just isnt working.
The flash tool says it is but I am going to try and get the damos file off this ecu with a galleto cable and see if i can find someone to look at it.
Originally Posted by Capt. Obvious
Check wastegates too. My car had the same issue when I got it and it was because the shop that had worked on it before I owned it had wiped the original tune and replaced with with their "tune" (that was a stock k16 file) and then cranked down the one bar gates to force 1.2 bar of boost.
Yup, will do. I have looked at them and it does not appear they were ever touched and all of the maintenance receipts I have are not performance orientated.
Check your N75 valve. I had one of the lines come off which disabled the wastegates and gave 1.1-1.2 bar.
I'm rebuilding a VR6 that had the wastegate line come off and it didn't care for the 26 pounds of boost it got.
The FPR is in the front by the fuel tank as we run a returnless fuel system with just a single supply line to the fuel rails. The FPR has a -3AN line that goes to it from the aluminum intake plenum post throttle body, so not the traditional plastic vacuum line that people have to zip tie.
Check your N75 valve. I had one of the lines come off which disabled the wastegates and gave 1.1-1.2 bar.
I'm rebuilding a VR6 that had the wastegate line come off and it didn't care for the 26 pounds of boost it got.
the lines appear to be on it, none are popped off and there are no leaks.
could the valve itself be bad?
It hasn't thrown any codes yet but once I saw it boosting to 1.1 bar I stopped driving it hard since I do not want to risk damaging anything.
Maybe you're overthinking things. Is the car boosting 1.1 and holding it? Or just spiking and tapering back off? Isn't it tuned? If it's spiking I wouldn't worry. These cars really don't get much boost creep either. Maybe it's not on the stock tune. You can change the n75 valve, I'm not sure of a way to test it, maybe a good scanner can.
We use AN lines for everything, -4AN is used for all waste gate lines for example. -8AN for fuel.
Figured, I read wrong when you said you only have 1 vac line thinking there was none else. AN is nice, and never worry about leaks. I dig the newer push-lock stuff too, I see some guys running them on brake lines and the like, not sure I have the ***** to trust that though.
Maybe you're overthinking things. Is the car boosting 1.1 and holding it? Or just spiking and tapering back off? Isn't it tuned? If it's spiking I wouldn't worry. These cars really don't get much boost creep either. Maybe it's not on the stock tune. You can change the n75 valve, I'm not sure of a way to test it, maybe a good scanner can.
It is holding it and it is on the stock map according to the device UMW provides. It will hold around 1 bar and sometimes spike to 1.1. It should hold a solid .7 bar on a flat road in 3rd gear (tiptronic)
I still need to 100% confirm its on the stock map but I am pretty sure it is.
The oil in my car is coming up on a year old. I have only driven it about 1000 miles since then due to primarily working on it instead of driving. Mostly minor items. Is it really worth it to change based on age alone? The limited service records I have show years between previous changes. Car has ~95k miles.
The oil in my car is coming up on a year old. I have only driven it about 1000 miles since then due to primarily working on it instead of driving. Mostly minor items. Is it really worth it to change based on age alone? The limited service records I have show years between previous changes. Car has ~95k miles.
You will get differing opinions on this. Some say not necessary, others say drive it then just change the oil and not the filter, others say change oil and filter annually. Both my SC and my M5 are driven less than 1000 miles a year. I choose to change oil and filter annually. It gives me a chance to also inspect the car well.
My gut feel is that it is not necessary. But everything I do in life is not out of necessity. I enjoy doing maintenance on my cars and there is a certain degree of comfort for me knowing the car’s lifeblood is fresh.
Last edited by autobonrun; 06-12-2024 at 12:18 PM.
06-11-2024, 08:32 PM
