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Peter my front bumper is a 996 cup car bumper the lip is from rennline
my body shop resprayed my bumper and hood and blended my fenders for 1700
That sounds about right. My local Porsche center detailing shop quoted 2300 to respray the front and do a bunch of PDR. He also said he would try and fix the hood and bumper alignment, both are slightly askew due to an accident in 2008. He mentioned that a shim on the driver's side fender to raise it a smidge. Trucks of the trade I suppose. I'm planning on getting the work done next year, focused on mechanical right now. I'm slowly, but surely getting this car back to a full service history. When I die whoever gets the car will get a binder or two of receipts and work orders etc, as well as a sweet 911.
Installed some GT3 coilovers that were given to me by a friend. He was also kinda enough to set me up with some 18x9/11 Forgeline GA3Rs and 245/40 & 315/30 Nitto NT01s. The my front lip is still lower than my UIDS so I guess my front lip just became my new depth gauge. Lol!
I'm not trying to be critical at all, but I have to admit I really don't get the negative camber look. Is there a functional benefit? It seems like the tires would wear out in about 15 minutes
I'm not trying to be critical at all, but I have to admit I really don't get the negative camber look. Is there a functional benefit? It seems like the tires would wear out in about 15 minutes
For whatever reason our cars tolerate 2-3* of camber on the street pretty well. My car is over 3* for the track so that is most of the reason why u would do it.
Quoting again because this is so perfect... Well done.
What are the offsets?
Thanks!
They're 18x9 ET 45 and 18x11 ET 63
Originally Posted by damage98MO
The trend is def for coilovers, lowered and modern alloys. I do think the C2 especially lends itself to the aerokit gt3 look. My budget won't allow such extravagance😜. So I stick with the stock B4s and 17s. It's the peewee Hermann of 996s.
There is nothing wrong with a stock 996. They're awesome street cars as is. I enjoyed my car in stock trim but I can never leave well enough alone.
Originally Posted by peterp
I'm not trying to be critical at all, but I have to admit I really don't get the negative camber look. Is there a functional benefit? It seems like the tires would wear out in about 15 minutes
Originally Posted by De Jeeper
For whatever reason our cars tolerate 2-3* of camber on the street pretty well. My car is over 3* for the track so that is most of the reason why u would do it.
De Jeeper hit the nail on the head. My intent is to track it. A set of Nitto NT01s should last me well over a year under regular driving conditions and track use.
I'll be sure to post future updates here as I continue going down the track prep rabbit hole.
As a data point on the camber topic, I got about 22ish thousand miles out of my rear tires with a -1.5 degrees of camber. Getting it closer to -1 degrees requires adjustable toe arms, which zbomb suggested. Depending on how much you drive and the type of driving you do running -2 degrees can work pretty well. If you're tracking the car a lot, you're more likely to wear out the tires from track abuse than negative camber.
As a data point on the camber topic, I got about 22ish thousand miles out of my rear tires with a -1.5 degrees of camber. Getting it closer to -1 degrees requires adjustable toe arms...
Wait, would you clarify please? How much camber can be achieved on a lowered car without adjustable toe links? This seems to imply that the least you could get was minus 1.5° and minus 1 degree was out of reach, I assume that was with stock links. Does that mean you could get two degrees or more with stock links? I was under the impression it was the other way around.
Wait, would you clarify please? How much camber can be achieved on a lowered car without adjustable toe links? This seems to imply that the least you could get was minus 1.5° and minus 1 degree was out of reach, I assume that was with stock links. Does that mean you could get two degrees or more with stock links? I was under the impression it was the other way around.
Sorry if I wasn't clear. I'm not an alignment expert and can only speak to my car and my set up / experience. My car is lowered to about GT3 spec. Maybe a tad lower. During my alignment my tech showed me that with my current set up (all stock arms) we were maxed out at about -1.5 degrees of camber without running into issues with toe. He said he had no more room to go with toe and adjustable arms would be needed. So it sounds like -2 degrees could be achievable as long as there is ample amount of toe adjustment. I imaging a lot of this is impacted by ride height.
I have no horse in this race, however, I don't see how you can run city streets, gutters and parking lots with cars lowered this much. Maybe if only for track use and then loaded on a trailer? I know in my neck of the woods I could never get away with it. I'm at stock height and even then sometimes the parking lot speed bumps are a killer. I slow way down and ease over them.
I have no horse in this race, however, I don't see how you can run city streets, gutters and parking lots with cars lowered this much. Maybe if only for track use and then loaded on a trailer? I know in my neck of the woods I could never get away with it. I'm at stock height and even then sometimes the parking lot speed bumps are a killer. I slow way down and ease over them.
How much is "this much" that you're referring to? In my case I am at RoW M030 ride height, in other words a factory ride height but probably the lowest for a non-GT. I just barely get my rear toe in spec with stock pieces and really need adjustable toe arms to get it dialed in correctly.
I have no horse in this race, however, I don't see how you can run city streets, gutters and parking lots with cars lowered this much. Maybe if only for track use and then loaded on a trailer? I know in my neck of the woods I could never get away with it. I'm at stock height and even then sometimes the parking lot speed bumps are a killer. I slow way down and ease over them.
I generally don't drive my "fun" cars places that I haven't been before. I know, super impractical right? Knowing what obstacles lie ahead will determine what I leave the house in. If I can't plan ahead, it's still not impossible. Driving a car this low just requires more effort. It's amazing to me how well my lowered car driving skills has translated to off road driving since driving a low car is basically the equivalent of urban rock crawling
Just as a data point, I am at GT-2 height with stock arms and running a GT-2 alignment. With -1.1 front and -1.8 rear. I believe I am maxed out before I need to start changing to adjustable arms to correct any issues. FYI.