I replaced mine when I found a crack. I got a brand new one with a new bearing in it for under $500. That included overnight delivery from Sunset.

 

This is the damage mine had. The fact that a bearing comes with the new fan makes it easy to justify replacing a damaged fan with a worn bearing.

 

I'm going to be doing headers with no heat in the next week or so, and have a few questions on the remaining heating components.

1 - Do I block off the holes where there was the hoses from the heat exchangers went before?

2 - Will this affect the ventilation of the distributor if I do block off the holes?

3 - If there any reason to retain the rear blower if I'm not running any heat?

 

I searched thru some threads about removing this crack pulley bolt and decided to just try changing the timing chain cover gaskets with the AC bracket in place....I managed to unbolt the nut off the hidden stud, but the stud is preventing the cover to swing off...how do I get this hidden stud out please?

also, my car came with no service records...so I'm not sure if these timing chain cover nut gaskets are original...they look yellow...is that how they came out of the factory?...I purchased new ones and they are black...

 

If you undo the bolts for AC bracket you can move it around a little. This will get you some extra millimeters to just get the cover over the stud.

 

This isn't helpful...but keep in mind when your AC bracket eventually is off the car..with the pulley off, it gets modified so that it can come off without removing the pulley later...

 

Regarding the timing chain cover, from older threads I thought the way to get it out the tight space was to extract the studs.



edit: How hard is it to swap the oil line that seems to run from the oil tank, by the rear wheel and towards the engine?

 

took me about an hour to get that damn stud out...finally!

 

Fixed the Ben nose. Thanks for the tips.

 

In both cases, be sure to thoroughly clean the area around the connections. You don't want dirt falling into the oil. You will need a set of the oil line wrenches (32mm & 36mm). Also be sure to counter hold the connections, so that you don't twist the oil pipes. Ask me how I know.

The oil line from the oil filter to the engine is definitely doable. You will also need to remove the driver side heat exchanger to get access to the engine connection. I found that a swivel 13mm 3/8 socket was especially helpful. You will also need a 6" long 8mm allen wrench to remove the heat exchanger.

Snap-on #FAML8E [I purchased the set]


Snap-on #FSUM13A


The oil line from the oil filter to the thermostat is also doable. You will need the same oil line wrenches.

 

Thanks Rob. The keys seem similar size necessary for the oil cooler lines, so I should already have those. The line to the filter seems ok, not weeping or anything, but that other one is just a mess. I'm planning to do this line, and the driver side timing chain cover during the next oil change.

The Line in question seems to be #24, but I assume I'l need to do the lines asociated with it as well. (#34, 29, 28)

 

Rob- how do you counter hold the connections to not twist the oil pipes???

 

Each fitting has two sides, both with places for your wrench. You need to use two wrenches to loosen or tighten them. I made the mistake of loosening the oil line from the engine to oil filter, once I had it cracked, I stopped using the counter wrench and accidentally twisted (ruined) the pipe.

 

The rubber in the oil lines in our cars is nearly 25 years old. I've replaced all of the lines on my coupe and will be doing my cab soon. Even if they aren't leaking yet, you may be surprised how hard they are compared to new ones.

You should also check/replace your fuel lines. I had one that was swollen. The inner rubber was leaking into the outer jacket. It was a fire waiting to happen.

 

Line 24 & 34 are hard lines so it shouldn't need replacing unless damaged. 24 is the line from the tank to the J pipe that you see along side of passenger wheel well behind the tire. Usually line 29 goes due to overtightening or vibration and the hose clamp cutting through it. The line from the filter to the engine is line 54 and is shown in the picture LuckyJ posted. I have one of them new if needed but they have gotten expensive. The 28 is a short pipe I also have one of those used but as I said it is rare they are the culprit.

If you go to replace line 54 be careful if your heater boxes have not been removed in recent history it is not uncommon to break the studs.