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NO KIDDING! :0 That's where I bought it since I originally asked the question - but it did hold me up a few days. I was asking a little tongue in cheek because everyone is so particular about their sealants - but partially seriously because permatex and some others are high quality sealants available at the corner auto parts store. I'm a victim of todays, need-it-now economy, I guess!
There's also the very serious matter of my trying to crank through a project before a storm sneaks up on me. Last year it was almost 4 feet in the garage...they say it was a 100 year storm but I don't trust any of that.
NO KIDDING! :0 That's where I bought it since I originally asked the question - but it did hold me up a few days. I was asking a little tongue in cheek because everyone is so particular about their sealants - but partially seriously because permatex and some others are high quality sealants available at the corner auto parts store. I'm a victim of todays, need-it-now economy, I guess!
There's also the very serious matter of my trying to crank through a project before a storm sneaks up on me. Last year it was almost 4 feet in the garage...they say it was a 100 year storm but I don't trust any of that.
We have become so needy these days. LOL I am with you, although by me I could have had it delivered the same day. I remember when everything took a week or more to get delivered. Some things are the same and others not so much. Depending on the need is it worth taking a chance? Although things like threebond, yamabond and hondabond are all the same product just different coloring essentially. I always keep a tube of Curl T and others in stock. You never know when you might need it.
I'm attempting to wire a phone charger into the ashtray, but there's no power going to the light. I understand it might be tied to the dashboard lights, which work just fine. I only play an electrical guy on TV, so I'm curious what else I might check to find the break in power?
This may be a silly question but did check for power or is the bulb just burned out?
Trace the wire back under the dash. This one gets mangled sometimes when an aftermarket radio is installed.
This may be a silly question but did check for power or is the bulb just burned out?
Trace the wire back under the dash. This one gets mangled sometimes when an aftermarket radio is installed.
Checked the wires themselves, just haven't chased them upstream yet. That's next on the list.
More and more questions the more I work on this car.
I really need to find the prior owners... Would love to know it's history.
Time for a valve adjustment. I have no idea when this was done last, I've noticed increasing ticking/tinkling/clatter from the covers and around the engine, and that coupled with oil change intervals (I know the oil was changed prior to my purchase, and it's been 2500 miles since, I DD this thing) makes me want to tackle this job next.
Question 1:
Is the photo of my crank hub showing TDC? This is the only location with two notches that can be lined up with the notch on the fan housing.
Question 2:
Do I need a new fan? While rotating the alternator/fan I noticed this crack. Crack is between the fan blade and fan hub. Is it just a crack in the paint or is it a developing stress crack in the fan blade itself? How urgent is this? Secondarily I noticed the inner fan blade corner is rough/sharp to the touch unlike the outer surface.
Thanks as always
Alex Crank Fan
Last edited by ShocknAwe; Jul 8, 2025 at 08:25 PM.
no, it's not the correct mark. There are three marks on the wheel/hub. Separated with "1/3" of the hub. Two are just a line as in your pic. The third one has "Z1" stamped on the edge of the hub/wheel. That's the TDC. So rotate the engine one or two more thirds and you'll see it.
^^ as said above but for it to be TDC Cyl 1 the distributor must have the rotors facing the raised marks you can see when the cap is off. If one is correct both should be if not you need distributor work.
As far as the fan it is hard to say. It appears it might have been painted once before. It looks like it could be a crack in the casting but can't say for sure. Keep a close eye on it if it gets worse replace it. Otherwise remove the fan and strip the paint to see if it is a cracked blade. If it is a minor crack you might be able to tool it out but if it is more serious replacement will be needed. I have also seen cracks like this which were just the surface coating. These are not the best quality mag castings and spin at some serious speeds.
I am shocked I read a post yesterday with someone suggesting that you place a bar between the blades to remove the studs. This is a mistake that has resulted in many damaged fans over the decades. This is something you don't want to do and can result in cracks and eventually failure or need to replace the fans which are around $600 new IIRC.
no, it's not the correct mark. There are three marks on the wheel/hub. Separated with "1/3" of the hub. Two are just a line as in your pic. The third one has "Z1" stamped on the edge of the hub/wheel. That's the TDC. So rotate the engine one or two more thirds and you'll see it.
Originally Posted by cobalt
^^ as said above but for it to be TDC Cyl 1 the distributor must have the rotors facing the raised marks you can see when the cap is off. If one is correct both should be if not you need distributor work.
As far as the fan it is hard to say. It appears it might have been painted once before. It looks like it could be a crack in the casting but can't say for sure. Keep a close eye on it if it gets worse replace it. Otherwise remove the fan and strip the paint to see if it is a cracked blade. If it is a minor crack you might be able to tool it out but if it is more serious replacement will be needed. I have also seen cracks like this which were just the surface coating. These are not the best quality mag castings and spin at some serious speeds.
I am shocked I read a post yesterday with someone suggesting that you place a bar between the blades to remove the studs. This is a mistake that has resulted in many damaged fans over the decades. This is something you don't want to do and can result in cracks and eventually failure or need to replace the fans which are around $600 new IIRC.
Thanks. Looked for the Z1 and didn't see it on a full rotation hence the question. I'll clean it up real well and look again.
Thanks. Looked for the Z1 and didn't see it on a full rotation hence the question. I'll clean it up real well and look again.
If for some reason it isn't marked. Pull a spark plug from Cyl #1 place a screwdriver or plastic tool into the spark plug hole and when the piston rises you will know and it will line the marks up on the distributor otherwise it is 180 out. Easiest way to tell. I usually mark it with a dab or paint for reference.
I got caught in traffic on I-90 yesterday. An accident backed up cars for a few miles. And it was a pretty warm 82F. Stop and go traffic caused a couple things to happen thus my questions:
The motor temp got pretty high. Highest I've seen it. Not quite to the red line but just under it. Anything to be concerned with there? Oil damage?
Once traffic cleared up and I got moving again, no issues with temp. Right back down to normal.
Second question is the oil pressure light lit up a few times while in stop and go. But the oil pressure indicator never went too low. Issue with the sender?
Again, once I got rolling everything went back to normal.
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