I put a jack under the center of the case. And then a jack with a 2x8 under the lower of the two heat exchangers and level the motor. Easy enough. Don't worry about breaking anything...but if the motor is caught and doesn't level easily, don't force it...

 

Are the decklids for a C2 and a RSA the same? Specifically the opening where the wings bolt in?

 

Yes they are interchangeable.

 

The RSA rear decklid is essentially the old 3.2 Carrera lid. The size is identical but the mounting points are different and require brackets to bolt up to the 964 hinges. You can make them out of aluminum angle stock easily enough if you're handy or buy them for around $150 a set. The factory adapters are NLA.

 

On the new exhaust manifold stud, on the side that goes into the head, should I put some copper antiseize, tiny bit of loctite, or nothing?

-Actually the new studs came with some of its own sealing compound on the threads.


I looked around the hose and its pretty dry on top of it, its pretty weepy all around, but leaks out more where the hardline seems to dip inside the rubber hose that leads to the engine. I'l do the rubber rose and those other short hoses by the oil tank, because they also on the weepy side.

Luckily with the headless headers there seems to be ample access to this line.

 

My '90, C4 had a new clutch, including a dual mass flywheel, fitted 12 years ago at 91,000 miles. All associated ancillaries were changed at the same time including the clutch fork. The car has now done 125,000 miles. The clutch pedal action is very hard. From reading various threads on this site, I suspect that the slave cylinder may need bleeding or replacing and I intend to bleed it asap. However, my question is, can a 964 clutch wear out after only 35,000 miles?

ETA: I bought the car 18 months ago. In that time I've driven about 3000 miles. The clutch pedal action has been hard from the day that bought the car. It's only by reading threads on this site that I realise that I may have a problem .

 

Have you flushed the brake system since you purchased it. The Clutch slave also. It should be done every two years. A clutch can go in 5000 miles if not properly driven.

 

Are there any convenient re-routes for the oxygen sensor? It seems the only way for it to reach the O2 bung on the new headers is if i pull the grommet out of the tin, but then its way too outstretched.

Q2: Is the part# for the stud on heat exchangers 900 060 106 01? Seems like its a tad bit shorter, but maybe just my imagination.

 

on the topic of BATTERY QUICK DISCONNECTS CUTOFFS ... anyone tried these? Neat simple design





I'm not very clued up on electrical issues ... but as I don't have a stock ECU and radio etc.. there is little downside to cutting off the battery ... also handy when working on the car ... anything else I maybe missing?

 

We use those on our race cars as its a long time between races. I also used one on my Turbo 3.6 for the 7 years it spent in storage. Very useful.

 

I have one very similar on mine. Very handy for longer periods of down time. I do have to let the car adapt (idle for 5-10 minutes) after power is connected though. I use it because currently I'm unable to use a tender.

This is the exact one that I use


Also, keep in mind, it's height doesn't let the frunk floor sit perfectly flush but that wasn't a deal breaker for me, for others it might.

 

thanks John Mcm ... great!

thanks Dsan .. what do you mean by "frunk floor sit perfectly flush" ... surely you dont mean the frunk lid ... ??

 

.

No, no, no, I meant the carpeted floor directly over the battery/spare tire area.

 

Aha thanks! We need a reintroduction to that new one in your avatar I think

 

Most plates for the heater delete are perforated, supposedly like the OEM Porsche plates to allow for heat dissipation under the fan shroud when the car is turned off. My question is, lets say you are in a rainy situation, would it be bad if some water were to make its way through those holes and under the fan shroud? Any potential alternator hazards?