The silly little question thread ...
08-23-2014, 04:01 AM
#91
On the C4, there is a pump that runs when the ignition is turned to position2. Sounds like it builds up pressure, then shuts off. Seems to take different lengths of time to build then stop. This is the ABS pump correct? How long should it run to charge up? If it takes 20 seconds, is that an indication of a problem?
08-23-2014, 06:37 AM
#92
Race Car
Thread Starter
Another one...
There appears to be three horns in the RHS wheel well. The two low/high horns for the steering wheel horn, and another round one, further forward. What is the third one?
I have recently removed the scattered remains of an after market radar detector system and an after market audiovox security system. But the third horn looks OEM an,d not part of this wiring nightmare.
There appears to be three horns in the RHS wheel well. The two low/high horns for the steering wheel horn, and another round one, further forward. What is the third one?
I have recently removed the scattered remains of an after market radar detector system and an after market audiovox security system. But the third horn looks OEM an,d not part of this wiring nightmare.
08-24-2014, 07:26 PM
#94
Can anyone post a picture of what I should adjust to lower the driver side edge of the hood where it meets the bumper. My side to side gaps are equal, but the driver side is a bit larger. I have no leaks, but when I wash with power washer sometimes there is more water right on the inside of the rubber seal where the bonnet closes.
08-25-2014, 12:31 AM
#96
Rennlist Member
08-25-2014, 12:49 AM
#97
Racer
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It's been a while since I had my suspension off, but can anyone tell me which camber plate (left/right) goes on the passenger or driver side?
Also, for the rear shock, does anyone know if the fatter side goes up against the rear control arm (facing outwards) or does it go on the bolt face side (facing inwards towards the engine).
Also, for the rear shock, does anyone know if the fatter side goes up against the rear control arm (facing outwards) or does it go on the bolt face side (facing inwards towards the engine).
08-25-2014, 11:05 AM
#98
IHI KING!
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Don - The strut bearing orientation depends on what style of 964 you are running. The turbo's have a wider track. If you are running the narrow body then the strut center is oriented to the center of the car. If you are running a turbo (wide body), then the strut center is flipped 180 degrees to move the top out, away from the center of the car.
Do you have Adrian's book? I seem to remember a photo about the two comparisons.
Do you have Adrian's book? I seem to remember a photo about the two comparisons.
08-25-2014, 02:26 PM
#99
Race Car
Thread Starter
Rob (all of you Robs actually 
) thanks for the continued insight ....
I have a couple new little questions:
1. re-route spark plug leads:
best way to re-route the ignition wires that run over the fan housing? ie to make the fan housing more visible? there is a gap beneath the housing along the front but that would be close to the block. is it common to just move the cables back over towards the other set that run to the right side of the engine? or is there something cleverer/less obvious?
2. has anyone made a cold air intake that is closer to the decklid/other source of cold air? I'd love more cold air (always helps) but I also have simple aesthetic motivations (damn Singer!) ie to get rid of the stock airbox. Cone filters tend to be loud and will bring in alot of hot air .... or is the volume of air in the engine bay refreshing so quickly (I have read every 3s in a GT3) that its not worthwhile worrying about?
3. removing the 3rd pulley wheel now that aircon is gone - risks re harmonics etc..?
) thanks for the continued insight ....I have a couple new little questions:
1. re-route spark plug leads:
best way to re-route the ignition wires that run over the fan housing? ie to make the fan housing more visible? there is a gap beneath the housing along the front but that would be close to the block. is it common to just move the cables back over towards the other set that run to the right side of the engine? or is there something cleverer/less obvious?
2. has anyone made a cold air intake that is closer to the decklid/other source of cold air? I'd love more cold air (always helps) but I also have simple aesthetic motivations (damn Singer!) ie to get rid of the stock airbox. Cone filters tend to be loud and will bring in alot of hot air .... or is the volume of air in the engine bay refreshing so quickly (I have read every 3s in a GT3) that its not worthwhile worrying about?
3. removing the 3rd pulley wheel now that aircon is gone - risks re harmonics etc..?
08-25-2014, 02:43 PM
#100
IHI KING!
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1) My spark plug leads are not long enough to be re-routed. You would need to get new leads made to give you enough length.
2) Not sure its a problem as is. The engine cooling fan is drawing in 1100 liters/minute into the fan.
3) The 3rd pulley on the crank pulley is part of the assembly. Its not easily removed. Perhaps there is a motorsports version without and AC belt ring.
2) Not sure its a problem as is. The engine cooling fan is drawing in 1100 liters/minute into the fan.
3) The 3rd pulley on the crank pulley is part of the assembly. Its not easily removed. Perhaps there is a motorsports version without and AC belt ring.
08-25-2014, 02:50 PM
#101
Race Car
Thread Starter
^ thanks Rob! They are likely silly questions but just to clarify ...
1. and were the leads longer, would you go over the back of the cowlng like the other ones?
2. I know the fan is pulling in air under the cowling ... but what about the intake - I thought it was fed via some form of ram air from above through the spoiler?
3. ok thanks! Yes I've seen patrick have one ... wasn't aware the pulleys were all joined. Engine is out so will make that easier - I was concerned re harmonics & balance of the wheels
1. and were the leads longer, would you go over the back of the cowlng like the other ones?
2. I know the fan is pulling in air under the cowling ... but what about the intake - I thought it was fed via some form of ram air from above through the spoiler?
3. ok thanks! Yes I've seen patrick have one ... wasn't aware the pulleys were all joined. Engine is out so will make that easier - I was concerned re harmonics & balance of the wheels
08-30-2014, 03:44 PM
#103
Rob (all of you Robs actually ) thanks for the continued insight ....
I have a couple new little questions:
1. re-route spark plug leads:
best way to re-route the ignition wires that run over the fan housing? ie to make the fan housing more visible? there is a gap beneath the housing along the front but that would be close to the block. is it common to just move the cables back over towards the other set that run to the right side of the engine? or is there something cleverer/less obvious?
2. has anyone made a cold air intake that is closer to the decklid/other source of cold air? I'd love more cold air (always helps) but I also have simple aesthetic motivations (damn Singer!) ie to get rid of the stock airbox. Cone filters tend to be loud and will bring in alot of hot air .... or is the volume of air in the engine bay refreshing so quickly (I have read every 3s in a GT3) that its not worthwhile worrying about?
3. removing the 3rd pulley wheel now that aircon is gone - risks re harmonics etc..?
) thanks for the continued insight ....I have a couple new little questions:
1. re-route spark plug leads:
best way to re-route the ignition wires that run over the fan housing? ie to make the fan housing more visible? there is a gap beneath the housing along the front but that would be close to the block. is it common to just move the cables back over towards the other set that run to the right side of the engine? or is there something cleverer/less obvious?
2. has anyone made a cold air intake that is closer to the decklid/other source of cold air? I'd love more cold air (always helps) but I also have simple aesthetic motivations (damn Singer!) ie to get rid of the stock airbox. Cone filters tend to be loud and will bring in alot of hot air .... or is the volume of air in the engine bay refreshing so quickly (I have read every 3s in a GT3) that its not worthwhile worrying about?
3. removing the 3rd pulley wheel now that aircon is gone - risks re harmonics etc..?
End result
08-30-2014, 05:26 PM
#105
Three Wheelin'
Don't bother with buying another crank pulley, just remove the aircon pulley from the one you have. The rubber can be burned out of the aircon pulley to remove it. You'll then need to lathe of the remaining metal center. I plan on doing this when I drop the engine out over winter for a few mods. The hardest job will be getting the pulley assembly off the crank to start with.
