Not ABS, but hydraulic booster for braking system and PDAS. Run time varies between cars, but 20 secs is good.

 

That's the alarm horn Pete

 

Has anyone adult sized travelled in the backseat of a 964? I climbed into mine, couldn't tilt the front seat back and almost had to call for help to get out

 

Not unless they are some world class acrobats. I have a hard time just getting in there to clean the rear area, and doing the wiper delete was ball busting.



Can anyone post a picture of what I should adjust to lower the driver side edge of the hood where it meets the bumper. My side to side gaps are equal, but the driver side is a bit larger. I have no leaks, but when I wash with power washer sometimes there is more water right on the inside of the rubber seal where the bonnet closes.

 

Great thanks.
I just repaired my low tone horn. Piece of cake.

 

in college i had six people in a 74 targa...short trip, but the girl in the middle up front didn't seem to mind the 3-4 shift

 

It's been a while since I had my suspension off, but can anyone tell me which camber plate (left/right) goes on the passenger or driver side?

Also, for the rear shock, does anyone know if the fatter side goes up against the rear control arm (facing outwards) or does it go on the bolt face side (facing inwards towards the engine).

 

Don - The strut bearing orientation depends on what style of 964 you are running. The turbo's have a wider track. If you are running the narrow body then the strut center is oriented to the center of the car. If you are running a turbo (wide body), then the strut center is flipped 180 degrees to move the top out, away from the center of the car.

Do you have Adrian's book? I seem to remember a photo about the two comparisons.

 

Rob (all of you Robs actually ) thanks for the continued insight ....

I have a couple new little questions:

1. re-route spark plug leads:
best way to re-route the ignition wires that run over the fan housing? ie to make the fan housing more visible? there is a gap beneath the housing along the front but that would be close to the block. is it common to just move the cables back over towards the other set that run to the right side of the engine? or is there something cleverer/less obvious?

2. has anyone made a cold air intake that is closer to the decklid/other source of cold air? I'd love more cold air (always helps) but I also have simple aesthetic motivations (damn Singer!) ie to get rid of the stock airbox. Cone filters tend to be loud and will bring in alot of hot air .... or is the volume of air in the engine bay refreshing so quickly (I have read every 3s in a GT3) that its not worthwhile worrying about?

3. removing the 3rd pulley wheel now that aircon is gone - risks re harmonics etc..?

 

1) My spark plug leads are not long enough to be re-routed. You would need to get new leads made to give you enough length.

2) Not sure its a problem as is. The engine cooling fan is drawing in 1100 liters/minute into the fan.

3) The 3rd pulley on the crank pulley is part of the assembly. Its not easily removed. Perhaps there is a motorsports version without and AC belt ring.

 

^ thanks Rob! They are likely silly questions but just to clarify ...

1. and were the leads longer, would you go over the back of the cowlng like the other ones?

2. I know the fan is pulling in air under the cowling ... but what about the intake - I thought it was fed via some form of ram air from above through the spoiler?

3. ok thanks! Yes I've seen patrick have one ... wasn't aware the pulleys were all joined. Engine is out so will make that easier - I was concerned re harmonics & balance of the wheels

 

Found the answer when I ordered replacements

Fronts are longer by about 3 inches

 

If you have oem style wires, then you can simply remove to plastic wire holder and flop them over the fan housing. Since you have the engine out, there's a slightly more elegant solution. I took two of the factory wire holders and stacked them on top of the existing ones and used longer screws to hold them both down.




End result

 

Thanks for confirming that would work Jpar
Fan and housing looks gr8!

 

Don't bother with buying another crank pulley, just remove the aircon pulley from the one you have. The rubber can be burned out of the aircon pulley to remove it. You'll then need to lathe of the remaining metal center. I plan on doing this when I drop the engine out over winter for a few mods. The hardest job will be getting the pulley assembly off the crank to start with.