John McM

That's one heck of a job. Are you removing the intake runners to give yourself access? Otherwise there's a lot of engine between you and the sender.

John McM

Sender is circled in red to give a better sense of what's required to reach it.

luckyJ

Yes. I pulled out the passenger side intake manifold and Air flow meter/air filter box assemblies. The oil temp/pressure sender manifold won't come out. Just bout tried everything. Thinking if it won't come out and there is no leakage in the area I shud just take out the pressure sender by loosening the 24mm bolt.

luckyJ

I have the notch on pulley aligned with the notch on crank and "Z1" mark aligned...distributor rotor is confirmed that I am at cylinder #1...

1) I can sense a very slight play of the rocker arm (can almost hear a small ticking noise)....is this normal and when using the feeler gauge, does it matter which side of the rocker arm is pressed or lifted?

2) is there a torque setting for the bolt used to lock the valve adjustment screw?

Mixter

This might help https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...-freeplay.html

The torque is 18 ft-lb. But if you focus too much on the torque for the lock nut, you will likely miss getting the gap set correctly. You should be tightening the lock nut lightly while moving the feeler gauge until the you just start to feel some slight resistance on the gauge, then tightening the nut down fully when you know the gap is where you want it. Focus on the gap, not the torque of the lock nut. It's more important to get the gap right than the torque. As long as the nut is secure the torque will be close enough.

luckyJ

finally got the sucker out...the 24mm crowfoot I purchased was too thick and wud not fit into the oil pressure sender bolt as the manifold cylinder head diameter is slightly larger than the bolt (i.e. the crowfoot wud not fit all the way into the bolt)....so I figured I was going to chuck the old sender anyways so used that as leverage to vice grip it and pull the thing out....it worked!...

John McM

What was holding it in so tightly?

John McM

I used the Kirk tool. Very easy with the engine out. My rockers moved side to side relatively easily. Correctly adjusted the rocker lifts ever so slightly off the cam. A little tick/click. It's almost imperceptible. The nuts were only gently torqued. No need to go to town on it.

luckyJ

the original rubber O-ring?...

John McM

I could feel mine sealing when I put it in. I'm surprised though that yours was so much trouble to get out.

luckyJ

1) pulled out the alternator/cooling fan assembly...is there a way to visually inspect the voltage regulator for replacement?

2) I've doused the fan bearing area with lubricant to pull the fan out tomorrow, but how do I get the fan shroud out please?

thank you

John McM

1. You can inspect the bushes. You undo the two screws on the regulator and it comes out. You will quickly see how worn they are

2. The shroud is a push fit. The alternator rests on a ridge in the shroud. If you put the alternator fan side down the shroud will come off the back or the alternator will fall forward. I first took off the fan with a specially made puller, then put planks of wood under the shroud and lightly tapped on the back of the alternator and it came out.

LPMM

^^^ THIS. Here is mine (left) compared to the new one (right) I installed. It was still good but since I was in there, I figured it was prudent to replace.

911wings

just a thought but if that is the original alternator fan, you might want to replace it with an aluminum one. My original magnesium one fragmented on me and cut a belt!

jpar

New ones are aluminum?