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The rubber in the oil lines in our cars is nearly 25 years old. I've replaced all of the lines on my coupe and will be doing my cab soon. Even if they aren't leaking yet, you may be surprised how hard they are compared to new ones.
You should also check/replace your fuel lines. I had one that was swollen. The inner rubber was leaking into the outer jacket. It was a fire waiting to happen.
Originally Posted by cobalt
Line 24 & 34 are hard lines so it shouldn't need replacing unless damaged. 24 is the line from the tank to the J pipe that you see along side of passenger wheel well behind the tire. Usually line 29 goes due to overtightening or vibration and the hose clamp cutting through it. The line from the filter to the engine is line 54 and is shown in the picture LuckyJ posted. I have one of them new if needed but they have gotten expensive. The 28 is a short pipe I also have one of those used but as I said it is rare they are the culprit.
If you go to replace line 54 be careful if your heater boxes have not been removed in recent history it is not uncommon to break the studs.
Does make sense, really appreciate the input. Perhaps I will just need to swap the rubber line (29), because it seems its mainly around it there is oil weeping. Lucky enough previous owner did all the other oil lines not long ago and they are in pretty good shape.
second question: for the nuts that hold heat exchanger, and the sealing ring gaskets between the head and the heat exchanger, should I use copper anti-seize? (1800F). I plan to use a dab of anti-seize on the rings to hold them in place while I line up the new headers.
On the off chance someone used the Victor Reinz gaskets here, did the beveled edge go towards the heat exchanger, and the flat portion of the ring toward the head?
Flat part toward the head and the round part toward the heat exchanger.
Yes on the copper paste. Slather everything with copper antisieze. You don't want those nuts to seize in the future...
Watch torque specs. Don't over torque.
The scariest creaking sounds of my life happen when those heat exchanger nuts start to come loose.
Just for kicks, I had emailed the Victor Reinz guys but had given up on a response until I got it. It kind of sucks and is contradictory to the older thread where a rep. from VR responded but...
I meant the flanges on the head and on the heat exchanger/manifold. Both are flat. Therefore it doesn’t matter how you place the gasket.
Thanks, good to know. Any one have an idea what the fix for this might be? It can't seem to find any previous posts/documentation on this issue (and checking a fuse/relay chart, it doesnt seem like that would be it). Hopefully I don't have to replace the whole assembly just for that.
As it should, I'm just curious if anything else is off on his steering column.
So on the heat exchanger swap I saw the line. The hard line to the engine seems fine, it seems Cobalt called it when he said the rubber line is the cuplrit.
You know I swapped out this hose once thinking that it was faulty (looked identical to your picture) but I would still get oil residue in that area. In my case, I think it's the PS pump.
On refitting the headlights I have come across two problems:
1. One of the headlight screw tabs is not holding (going to fit a M5 Rivnut) and
2. The new fender to light rubber seal seems thicker than the previous ones and is making an even fit a challenge. Is there a technique? May be compress the seal for a few hours? Put in the freezer? I don't want to manhandle the light.
while I had the engine carrier out to re-seal various parts of the engine...I noticed the engine case had tilted to the driver's side...must have shifted while I was tightening something...what is the best way to re-bal/level out the engine case please?...thinking of using some wood blocks under the driver's side heat exchangers and jacking it up...but worried the weight wud damage the HEs...thank you
while I had the engine carrier out to re-seal various parts of the engine...I noticed the engine case had tilted to the driver's side...must have shifted while I was tightening something...what is the best way to re-bal/level out the engine case please?...thinking of using some wood blocks under the driver's side heat exchangers and jacking it up...but worried the weight wud damage the HEs...thank you
yes, I have the engine carrier bracket out...the case tilted after removing it...so the mounts are still bolted with no impact...I was hoping to re-bal the case so when mounting the carrier bracket, it would bolt up squarely to the mounts...not sure if I shud slowly jack up the case in this position as I read somewhere that the engine mount studs could bend....
