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Permatex anaerobic gasket maker appears to be basically the same stuff. You can compare the TDS to loctite 574. Same chemical type and same specific gravity. Permatex is generally more widely available (and made by loctite) and far less than 574.
I looked at it up on the jack stands a couple of times, patted the fender while walking by. Does that count? (Life has gotten in the way of the repairs for this last week) Next week the head comes off!!
I ended up placing an order last night for the 574 (and some MT-90) from www.germansupply.com
The Permatex does look appropriate, but I have to wonder if there are differences between the two that would affect long term performance. I would definitely consider trying the Permatex on something less critical.
Yesterday I went to the local junkyard to get a few Bosch idle valves, to use with my VEMS kit.
Maybe this week I'll get it installed.
If they don't work out I have a 2-pin one from a Benz if you want it for free, I originally looked at using that functionality for MS but used the early aux. air valve...no configuration, no problems.
Just finished putting in a Lindsey Racing Full 3" exhaust all straight on my 951, a little more cutting and fab to the dump-pipe than expected, but it turned out great. Nice gains and an even better noise. Definitely recommend the product.
Also, yesterday made a trade for a set of BBS Sport Classic 2's, I got rid of an old set of wheels that I couldn't use, and now have a small project to keep me busy.
I ended up placing an order last night for the 574 (and some MT-90) from www.germansupply.com
The Permatex does look appropriate, but I have to wonder if there are differences between the two that would affect long term performance. I would definitely consider trying the Permatex on something less critical.
No big deal, was posting in case you needed an alternative. The important part on sealing an oil pump is it needs to be anaerobic. Which means it cures in the absence of oxygen, and why silicone should not be used. The silicone will ooze out the back side and cure. Then can break off and plug small oil passages. Any excess anaerobic sealant will stay in liquid form and just be carried with the oil until the next change.
If they don't work out I have a 2-pin one from a Benz if you want it for free, I originally looked at using that functionality for MS but used the early aux. air valve...no configuration, no problems.
The ones I grabbed were off of 80-90s rwd Volvo cars. They were plentiful yesterday- I bought two but probably could have gotten another 6-7 while I was there.
finished installing the rear seat (changeover from white to black) Looks great but those two little bolts for the upper seat back hinge had me cussin'.
Removing the control arm bushings was one of the most annoying and exhausting jobs I've completed on this car thus far. A lot of trial and error just to get to the pressed-in outer sections, and then a lot of effort trying to hacksaw shallow cuts as recommended elsewhere on Rennlist.
I used a dremel to cut some lines into the center section, and then a chisel to loosen up the mechanical bond.
Drilled about 8 holes into the bushing to help break it up. I also sliced off the face of the rubber using a knife (not shown)
Vice grips with twisting action broke up the rubber and allowed the center piece to be removed.
I tried using the hacksaw method on the first control arm and found it difficult to get the right depth. There was also a lot of rubber still bonded to the outer shell and it was extremely frustrating to deal with. I used the dremel again to notch the outside, and then a chisel to deform the outer edges.
A lot of hammering, vice-gripping, and some penetrating oil allowed me to work the part out. The backside piece remaining can be pushed out using a ~1" deep socket and hammer.
The carnage. If anyone has an easier method, I'd love to hear it.
Removing the control arm bushings was one of the most annoying and exhausting jobs I've completed on this car thus far. A lot of trial and error just to get to the pressed-in outer sections, and then a lot of effort trying to hacksaw shallow cuts as recommended elsewhere on Rennlist.
just wait until you have to replace the trailing arm pivot bushings...
get plenty of beer.
Do these bushing not have to be pressed in with a press? I always had a machine shop with a press do mine on my F-bodies. They press out the old, press in the new.
02-14-2016, 08:37 AM
