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The climate control temp sensor fan had been chirping intermittently last summer and I decided to try and solve it.
There was a LOT of dust and small fibers in the impeller and housing. A significant amount of black 'filings' kept coming out from the motor. It didn't seem to spin very freely either.
I tried testing the motor using a 12V battery - it spun a revolution slowly and then stopped. Maybe I shorted it out.
There's some used fan/sensor modules on ebay (Part 0 130 002 808), but they're probably on their last legs too.
Bosch made similar items for Mercedes (Part 000 830 19 08), which are available NEW under $100 on ebay. I'm tempted to pick one up and swap the motor portion over.
Ideally I'd like to just buy a similar motor for $5 or whatever they're worth.
Painted a pair of recently acquired 6 bladed fans and their housing today. Looks great..Hope the wifey doesn't find out that I painted them on the back porch and then brought them inside to warm back up...Tough doing a rattle can job in cold weather and having it come out good. So I kept the parts inside for a couple of days..took them out on the unheated back porch, shot the paint and brought them back inside before the parts and the paint had a chance to cool down too much.
I tried to spray white rattle can paint the other day in 50 degree temp and it came out looking like stucco.
As far as the cc motor goes, probably the brushes gave out...has to be completely torn down to assess the full damage. Maybe some dremel brushes would work..They are only carbon?graphite. If you go that far, be sure to polish the commutator with some super-fine emery cloth prior to reassembly. Good luck!
Bought aftermarket shifter cover and attempted to replace it; the end result came out crappy. Also, both new covers (inner and outer) don't seem to stay in place within their respective rings so I'm tempted to just buy a whole new assembly from Porsche.
Bought aftermarket shifter cover and attempted to replace it; the end result came out crappy. Also, both new covers (inner and outer) don't seem to stay in place within their respective rings so I'm tempted to just buy a whole new assembly from Porsche.
Same thing on the shift ****, but I haven given up yet. Mainly not happy with the fit around the cap.
I'm not sure a new one is available from Porsche. If it is it will be big bucks!
Two weeks ago I made a small trip that ended badly. I'll try to be succinct.
I fully engaged 3rd, then revved to 5000 rpm. After that the clutch feel changed, but it worked fine.
Then in the city I repeated this in 2nd gear: shift, release clutch, accelerate. Then I slowed down with engine braking to halt at the red light. I stopped and the engine stalled.
After that the clutch would not disengage again.
-- If I start the engine (shifter in neutral), then try to put it in gear the car starts moving slowly but will not engage the gear.
-- There's no brake fluid missing, no drops from clutch bell housing.
-- Doesn't make any weird noises when in neutral.
-- Nothing changes if I press the clutch down fast repeatedly.
My clutch was replaced ~3 years ago with the full Sachs kit. I reckon that includes the throwout bearing, too. The clutch slave cylinder was also replaced half a year later. The master cylinder seems original.
Possible culprits:
1) Broken clutch fork:
Not likely because the problem did not happen suddenly, there were no cracking noises. The broken pieces would also be rattling in the bell housing, which they do not.
2) Slave cylinder:
Would leak the brake fluid.
3) Master cylinder:
Explains the lack of disengagement & the lack of fluid leak.
Does not explain why it happened at hard-ish acceleration.
I'll be investigating on Saturday. Any recommendations what to look for, how to test?
Any ideas what else could have failed?
^ I saw a clutch fork once from a buddy's 951 that was mangled, but no pieces actually broken off. Have you looked into the inspection hole while someone pressed the clutch pedal? You can see the point where the slave rod pushes the fork.
^ I saw a clutch fork once from a buddy's 951 that was mangled, but no pieces actually broken off. Have you looked into the inspection hole while someone pressed the clutch pedal? You can see the point where the slave rod pushes the fork.
Thanks for the suggestion!
Couldn't take a look yet as I can't easily get under the car. Looking through the inspection hole is the main plan for Saturday.
Cross-over and downpipe before (with old insulating wrap)
Now with titanium ceramic coating inside and out! I'm fully expecting this to help with under hood temps. Not bad for $150 CDN.
Turbo aux water pump needed a new rubber insert - I was not able to source one anywhere - those insulated 'P-Clamps' available everywhere are not wide enough. This one is 3D printed using a flexible filament (thermoplastic polyurethane). I'm going to make another one for the ISV.
02-20-2016, 11:45 PM
