Kline 718 GT4/Spyder exhaust
#2251
Pse off
my wife said today she can hear the car blocks.away now! Lol.
my wife said today she can hear the car blocks.away now! Lol.
#2252
Installed the Kline SS valvetronic catback and Cargraphic valve controller on my 718 Spyder yesterday. My wife also says she can hear it blocks away. However, I had here help on a few parts so she is complicit. Definitely an improvement in sound.
Thanks Eric@SupremePower for the pre-sales discussion and quick turnaround. Was a nice project to have for a rainy day.
Thanks Eric@SupremePower for the pre-sales discussion and quick turnaround. Was a nice project to have for a rainy day.
The following 5 users liked this post by norphaedrus:
BoxKing (05-26-2024),
jimdillard (05-26-2024),
LooseNut (05-26-2024),
Reno 911 (05-26-2024),
UncleDude (05-25-2024)
#2253
Rennlist Member
I've had mine now since Aug '23 and am still blown away. Just had my inspection at my dealer and my SA was equally amazed - these cars are different animals with Kline (yet so civilized when you want it to be). WOT under an overpass is absolutely insane (no tunnels around me)!
The following 4 users liked this post by Reno 911:
#2254
For those of you with the inconel, I’m trying to get an idea of what the system is like with vs without headers/200 cel cats. Is it mainly a volume difference? Any changes in tone? Big performance or engine response difference? Does anyone like the system better WITHOUT the headers? Please share your experiences.
#2255
Rennlist Member
I will put in the order for Kline with Eric tomorrow when they open for business. I got very prompt responses from him both yesterday and today and an invoice quickly this morning. I am getting the system in stainless steel with heat shielding for the OAPs.
I am trying to understand how to use this exhaust system. Would you recommend (a) using the factory valve programming and the PSE switch for both operation of the valves and activation of the sound symposer or, (b) disconnecting the vacuum lines altogether for the valves, leaving them open and using the PSE switch only to activate the sound symposer? The latter seems to have a separate vacuum actuator not tied to valve operation or am I wrong? Would appreciate any technical knowledge on this matter.
At least two people have told me that they leave their valves fully open. Is that the default and optimal setup with Kline? I am not averse to loud as long as it is not over the top. Thank you.
I am trying to understand how to use this exhaust system. Would you recommend (a) using the factory valve programming and the PSE switch for both operation of the valves and activation of the sound symposer or, (b) disconnecting the vacuum lines altogether for the valves, leaving them open and using the PSE switch only to activate the sound symposer? The latter seems to have a separate vacuum actuator not tied to valve operation or am I wrong? Would appreciate any technical knowledge on this matter.
At least two people have told me that they leave their valves fully open. Is that the default and optimal setup with Kline? I am not averse to loud as long as it is not over the top. Thank you.
Last edited by subwoofer; 05-27-2024 at 08:55 PM.
#2256
You can play around with all the options and decide what you like. Don't forget the collar option too. I found valves fully open all the time too loud for my taste.
#2257
Rennlist Member
I will put in the order for Kline with Eric tomorrow when they open for business. I got very prompt responses from him both yesterday and today and an invoice quickly this morning. I am getting the system in stainless steel with heat shielding for the OAPs.
I am trying to understand how to use this exhaust system. Would you recommend (a) using the factory valve programming and the PSE switch for both operation of the valves and activation of the sound symposer or, (b) disconnecting the vacuum lines altogether for the valves, leaving them open and using the PSE switch only to activate the sound symposer? The latter seems to have a separate vacuum actuator not tied to valve operation or am I wrong? Would appreciate any technical knowledge on this matter.
At least two people have told me that they leave their valves fully open. Is that the default and optimal setup with Kline? I am not averse to loud as long as it is not over the top. Thank you.
I am trying to understand how to use this exhaust system. Would you recommend (a) using the factory valve programming and the PSE switch for both operation of the valves and activation of the sound symposer or, (b) disconnecting the vacuum lines altogether for the valves, leaving them open and using the PSE switch only to activate the sound symposer? The latter seems to have a separate vacuum actuator not tied to valve operation or am I wrong? Would appreciate any technical knowledge on this matter.
At least two people have told me that they leave their valves fully open. Is that the default and optimal setup with Kline? I am not averse to loud as long as it is not over the top. Thank you.
The following 4 users liked this post by UncleDude:
#2258
I will put in the order for Kline with Eric tomorrow when they open for business. I got very prompt responses from him both yesterday and today and an invoice quickly this morning. I am getting the system in stainless steel with heat shielding for the OAPs.
I am trying to understand how to use this exhaust system. Would you recommend (a) using the factory valve programming and the PSE switch for both operation of the valves and activation of the sound symposer or, (b) disconnecting the vacuum lines altogether for the valves, leaving them open and using the PSE switch only to activate the sound symposer? The latter seems to have a separate vacuum actuator not tied to valve operation or am I wrong? Would appreciate any technical knowledge on this matter.
At least two people have told me that they leave their valves fully open. Is that the default and optimal setup with Kline? I am not averse to loud as long as it is not over the top. Thank you.
I am trying to understand how to use this exhaust system. Would you recommend (a) using the factory valve programming and the PSE switch for both operation of the valves and activation of the sound symposer or, (b) disconnecting the vacuum lines altogether for the valves, leaving them open and using the PSE switch only to activate the sound symposer? The latter seems to have a separate vacuum actuator not tied to valve operation or am I wrong? Would appreciate any technical knowledge on this matter.
At least two people have told me that they leave their valves fully open. Is that the default and optimal setup with Kline? I am not averse to loud as long as it is not over the top. Thank you.
if you leave the valves stock the valve is going to close the vast majority of the time and then it’s an on/off switch, not ideal at all. Either disconnect the valves, get a valve controlled, or a tune that controls valves. As you know I opted to disconnect and it’s perfect. If I want it quiet I use light throttle.
#2259
Rennlist Member
I never gave the system a chance to run with PSE. I installed with a fresh set of collars 95% open.
More often than not, you will read from those with valve controllers stating that they run with valves open 99% of the time, so the added cost for a controller vs. pulling the vacuum lines/collars seems wasteful financially as an option. Removing the actuation feature is a simple 5-10 min DIY, so I agree with Uncle, just run the system using stock functions, then tweak as you please. Testing out if you like valves fully open is easily reversible. As noted above, the system isn’t louder than BC Fabs, it’s cleaner, and if you want to act civil when you feel it’s necessary, just keep the lead foot of the pedal!
Lastly, I wouldnt recommend getting the OAPs heat shielded… your intent is to be a back road warrior, and there is no need for it(time waiting, additional costs)… Im not even concerned about shielding even when on track (its been debated)… AND congrats on taking the leap. Im sure I speak for everyone who loves their Kline setup, and hopes this system ticks all the right boxes for you!
More often than not, you will read from those with valve controllers stating that they run with valves open 99% of the time, so the added cost for a controller vs. pulling the vacuum lines/collars seems wasteful financially as an option. Removing the actuation feature is a simple 5-10 min DIY, so I agree with Uncle, just run the system using stock functions, then tweak as you please. Testing out if you like valves fully open is easily reversible. As noted above, the system isn’t louder than BC Fabs, it’s cleaner, and if you want to act civil when you feel it’s necessary, just keep the lead foot of the pedal!
Lastly, I wouldnt recommend getting the OAPs heat shielded… your intent is to be a back road warrior, and there is no need for it(time waiting, additional costs)… Im not even concerned about shielding even when on track (its been debated)… AND congrats on taking the leap. Im sure I speak for everyone who loves their Kline setup, and hopes this system ticks all the right boxes for you!
The following 3 users liked this post by BoxKing:
#2260
Rennlist Member
I recommend A. I think it is good to try it stock first to establish a baseline, then you can experiment with B (with the controller or valves locked open). I settled on A, with the collars holding the valves open slightly when closed. It is perfection for me.
https://youtu.be/uDE9eKuVUIs?si=x1-5tnhGcmu_sxVm
https://youtu.be/uDE9eKuVUIs?si=x1-5tnhGcmu_sxVm
#2261
Rennlist Member
With the collars the way I have them, starting off I can’t hear the valves open and close with PSE on. Up top though, I can still hear them open but there’s so much going on then it doesn’t matter. Good choice, you’re going love it.
On the top up section, notice how I can comfortably cruise at 2000 rpm. There’s no subwoofer 😀
Last edited by UncleDude; 05-27-2024 at 10:44 PM.
The following users liked this post:
subwoofer (05-27-2024)
#2262
Rennlist Member
I never gave the system a chance to run with PSE. I installed with a fresh set of collars 95% open.
More often than not, you will read from those with valve controllers stating that they run with valves open 99% of the time, so the added cost for a controller vs. pulling the vacuum lines/collars seems wasteful financially as an option. Removing the actuation feature is a simple 5-10 min DIY, so I agree with Uncle, just run the system using stock functions, then tweak as you please. Testing out if you like valves fully open is easily reversible. As noted above, the system isn’t louder than BC Fabs, it’s cleaner, and if you want to act civil when you feel it’s necessary, just keep the lead foot of the pedal!
Lastly, I wouldnt recommend getting the OAPs heat shielded… your intent is to be a back road warrior, and there is no need for it(time waiting, additional costs)… Im not even concerned about shielding even when on track (its been debated)… AND congrats on taking the leap. Im sure I speak for everyone who loves their Kline setup, and hopes this system ticks all the right boxes for you!
More often than not, you will read from those with valve controllers stating that they run with valves open 99% of the time, so the added cost for a controller vs. pulling the vacuum lines/collars seems wasteful financially as an option. Removing the actuation feature is a simple 5-10 min DIY, so I agree with Uncle, just run the system using stock functions, then tweak as you please. Testing out if you like valves fully open is easily reversible. As noted above, the system isn’t louder than BC Fabs, it’s cleaner, and if you want to act civil when you feel it’s necessary, just keep the lead foot of the pedal!
Lastly, I wouldnt recommend getting the OAPs heat shielded… your intent is to be a back road warrior, and there is no need for it(time waiting, additional costs)… Im not even concerned about shielding even when on track (its been debated)… AND congrats on taking the leap. Im sure I speak for everyone who loves their Kline setup, and hopes this system ticks all the right boxes for you!
The following users liked this post:
LooseNut (05-28-2024)
#2263
Burning Brakes
Thanks. I am just adding the shielding as insurance from any potential warranty issues with Porsche because the OEM pipes have them. You guys don’t think I should get them? Is that the general consensus? I don’t mind the extra 3 weeks or the additional 600 bucks. With the OEM OAPs, I can feel a lot of heat emanating near the rear wheels after a long drive.
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LooseNut (05-28-2024)
#2264
Rennlist Member
I’d say the video gives a decent representation of the sound. Volume is not really conveyed though, and the sound is somewhat flattened by the tiny mic. When you hit 5000 you won’t think it is quiet, especially in your convertible. It starts to really purr when it hits 4000, then it gets loud. I think below 4 just cruising it isn’t (my setup) much louder than stock. I think it is, but marginal (it simply sounds better). Above 5-8000 though, I feel it is quite a bit louder than stock.
With the collars the way I have them, starting off I can’t hear the valves open and close with PSE on. Up top though, I can still hear them open but there’s so much going on then it doesn’t matter. Good choice, you’re going love it.
On the top up section, notice how I can comfortably cruise at 2000 rpm. There’s no subwoofer 😀
With the collars the way I have them, starting off I can’t hear the valves open and close with PSE on. Up top though, I can still hear them open but there’s so much going on then it doesn’t matter. Good choice, you’re going love it.
On the top up section, notice how I can comfortably cruise at 2000 rpm. There’s no subwoofer 😀
My BC Fabs is about 2 x louder than stock and I like that level of volume. It is a very robust sound. Stock is much too quiet for me. Based on what you are telling me, I should leave the valves open all the time I think. I don’t like the sound transition of the OEM exhaust as the PSE valves open, close and open again. The BC Fabs eliminates that even with PSE off and I like that feature. It is a loud box and I would like an equivalent level of sound intensity as long as it is a clean sound without boom boom. I guess I have to experiment.
Last edited by subwoofer; 05-27-2024 at 10:56 PM.
#2265
Rennlist Member
Heat soak, and its effect on the integrity of metal, rubber, and other materials around the rear of the car, is impossible to measure over the course of months (for normal people without access to high-tech equipment). If you intend to keep the car for years and years, I'd opt for the heat shielding as a long-term precaution.