Any Rennlisters from New Zealand?
#8761
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Agree on the Z221 John. Even on spirited road drives like the one Doug organised back in November, I only managed to over power them a couple of times (just a little and they are so progressive). I think Chris M will remember. They are sweet tyres and frankly in all but very cold or very wet conditions I should say they are worth at least 2 seconds at HD and more at longer tracks like Taupo. Just brilliant tyres and Ive never even thought to look elsewhere of alternatives. They are without competition for fast road/track work IMO.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Question is - should I burn down my Michelin SS's on 18's or S04's on Cup2's to make a home for the Z221's?
#8762
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I think this is the difference between a fast road set up for the Targa and a Track set up. With PSS10 dialled down and ARBs slackened off the roads were very manageable. That said there were unavoidable ptholes at speed (all four of my wheels are now out of true!) and I did split bot fron plastic brake scoops (factory ones that hang off A arms) when the car took big compressions at speed over broken pavement! I also ran over a few dead rabit carcasses and spat them out the back after they bounced along the undercarriage and I killed a bird (on film) who couldnt get out of my way at 120kmph.
My biggest fear on the TT for damage was infact the windowscreen as I knew a big crack would immediately compromise WOF standards and put me out of the event I had paid alot of time and money to attend.
Good work Paul. Glad to see you are choosing appropriate componentry for your road only 911 (kidding). Once installed and set up correctly you should be close to where Craig left off with her (barring drivers seat). Did you go Porsxhe OEM for ARBs or H&R? Where did you shop?
#8763
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Whilst I enjoyed going faster it wasn't as satisfying as the 964. No real gear selection, lots of power, sticky tyres. Basically it made me look like I was a faster driver than I am. Still, I'll take the 1:21:xx.
#8765
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks John. Its for the SI Targa so plenty of time....but appreciate the warning. Have had enough RUSH order experience lately!
Chris. My advice is to keep the SS on 18s for the street. The Michelins are way expensive to replace here and a better tyre from what Ive read than the new S04. I would use up your So4 on 17" then move to Z221 on those 17" and use the 17s for track days only. This way youll get the most out of your road tires and still be competitive on track.
As it is you are only running "Tui 7/10ths" (imperial) currently as you are on road tyres. But the guys will respect this and adjust your lap times down accordingly for Z-221 use in the meantime as they are used to guys running "7/10ths" at RSG LOL!
Chris. My advice is to keep the SS on 18s for the street. The Michelins are way expensive to replace here and a better tyre from what Ive read than the new S04. I would use up your So4 on 17" then move to Z221 on those 17" and use the 17s for track days only. This way youll get the most out of your road tires and still be competitive on track.
As it is you are only running "Tui 7/10ths" (imperial) currently as you are on road tyres. But the guys will respect this and adjust your lap times down accordingly for Z-221 use in the meantime as they are used to guys running "7/10ths" at RSG LOL!
#8767
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
They are M030's - so OEM. As it's not a track car they won't be adjusted so couldn't justify the price difference. I just want to lower the car (current nick name is 'the Kobota'), sharpen the handling and still have a soft (wife happy) ride.
There is one benefit to the current ride height, I don't have the swerve for anything...............
The car currently handles like crap compared to the C3 (and I can't have that......)
How many hours should I be budgeting for the install job??
.
There is one benefit to the current ride height, I don't have the swerve for anything...............
The car currently handles like crap compared to the C3 (and I can't have that......)
How many hours should I be budgeting for the install job??
.
#8768
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks John. Its for the SI Targa so plenty of time....but appreciate the warning. Have had enough RUSH order experience lately! Chris. My advice is to keep the SS on 18s for the street. The Michelins are way expensive to replace here and a better tyre from what Ive read than the new S04. I would use up your So4 on 17" then move to Z221 on those 17" and use the 17s for track days only. This way youll get the most out of your road tires and still be competitive on track. As it is you are only running "Tui 7/10ths" (imperial) currently as you are on road tyres. But the guys will respect this and adjust your lap times down accordingly for Z-221 use in the meantime as they are used to guys running "7/10ths" at RSG LOL!
#8769
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
On my C3 - there is quite a difference between 15's and 16's in acceleration, although I do lose some of this advantage as I have to short shift in 2 areas on HD or sit on the revv limiter for 100m.
At Taupo and Manfield the gearing is perfect.........
Keep the OZ's for road posing as they look sexy.
.
#8770
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Chris. You can do what Paul is saying with the 17" Cups - you dont need the 16". Just buy tyres with a lower sideway rating (i.e. 40 vs 45 for the fronts). That will essentially achieve the same outcome. Smaller rolling diameter. As Paul mentions it is a little futile. Its not like changing ratios in a box to suit a track, essentially you will bring on the need to shift up sooner - so where you may be approaching the rev limiter at HD now you will have to likely shift with the lower gearing. That being said with a 5 speed gearbox like the 964 I can see the advantage as it tightens the longer ratios. With the 993 I think the advantage is less so.
Paul. I think I may ahve just thought of why Bobs Targa was faster than the C2S. His C2S was 1997 and used the later gearbox (same ratios as USA and Switzerland from start of production for noise emissions). In the 1996 Targa it uses same ratios as your and mine. That explains the relative difference for sure (as others have mentioned before on the 993 board). In terms of it pulling harder than your car (or mine) it would be the extra 30-40nm of torque in te mid range the VariRam affords. Not noticeable on the track but on the road yes as Ive noted in my own drives of both types of car.,
Paul. I think I may ahve just thought of why Bobs Targa was faster than the C2S. His C2S was 1997 and used the later gearbox (same ratios as USA and Switzerland from start of production for noise emissions). In the 1996 Targa it uses same ratios as your and mine. That explains the relative difference for sure (as others have mentioned before on the 993 board). In terms of it pulling harder than your car (or mine) it would be the extra 30-40nm of torque in te mid range the VariRam affords. Not noticeable on the track but on the road yes as Ive noted in my own drives of both types of car.,
#8771
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Paul. Id budget $1000 in GST labour for removal of old shocks, install of new ones including geo by Pete. Could be a touch cheaper as they have had plenty pf practice with PSS10 already! Say 6 hrs for the install and 2 for the full geo. The ARBs are a simple job. Whilst in there would consider the A arm bushes if not already done (Dean can send out for these to be punched and a new one installed). Also ask him to dowl pin your dront tie rods like he did mine. 20 year old factory ones have play in the rubber base - pinning them is cheap and makes them more rigid - improves steering feel. If you want a good in between setting go -2.0 rear and front.Not that youll be doing any aggressive track work but if you do youll have reasonable settings to start. As for height Id suggest no lower than RS+10mm. I think Im 5-8mm above RS as I have no thread left on my front shocks due to the monoballs being thicker than the original rubber top mounts. Thats if you will track it of course. For everyday Id look at RS+20mm. The PSS10s will make a world of difference. Certainly will give you a 2s advantage over where you are now and I guess if you do go to the track with it you will find the Herminator with its KWV3s starting to close in on you without the upgraded shocks.
P.S. The PSS10 is also a good choice for when the wife leaves you and you start using the 993 for Tarhga NZ Tour...
P.S. The PSS10 is also a good choice for when the wife leaves you and you start using the 993 for Tarhga NZ Tour...
#8772
Drifting
#8774
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Agreed John. Pinning those tie rods a cheap and worthwhile addition while you are in there. Take one off and see how much flex is in there after 20 years. Plenty on the 993 boards on that. About an hours labour both sides. You need to have the front done from scratch geo again when the re bushes A arms are bolted back up so either leave it till the new shocks arrive (as you have to have it done all over again) or have it done now so you can use it. Looks like with the suspension mods and alternator shes heading towards the magic 80K mark fairly rapidly. Ill fly over for the 100K mark BBQ and shout the meat and beers ;-) Im guessing we will be there in 2016.
#8775
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Agreed John. Pinning those tie rods a cheap and worthwhile addition while you are in there. Take one off and see how much flex is in there after 20 years. Plenty on the 993 boards on that. About an hours labour both sides. You need to have the front done from scratch geo again when the re bushes A arms are bolted back up so either leave it till the new shocks arrive (as you have to have it done all over again) or have it done now so you can use it. Looks like with the suspension mods and alternator shes heading towards the magic 80K mark fairly rapidly. Ill fly over for the 100K mark BBQ and shout the meat and beers ;-) Im guessing we will be there in 2016.